mark101180

im not positive but i think that is either for a vent or an overflow i havent had mine apart in a while but i think what that is i think they both need them and im sure it has somekind of vital function otherwise it wouldnt be in there

never hauled anything with or on my shee but when i was in high school my buddy took 3 fat people and a full 1/2 keg 2 miles into the woods

well you could do a few different things here. you dont nesecarlly need to tear it down just yet if you got like 105 in both cylinders i wouldnt be afraid to runn it till ur ready for a rebuild. but on the other hand if you were to tear it down now you will probably be able to get away with just rings. and you dont have to rip the whole motor apart and bore it and all that extra shit b/c of slightly low compression. when ur ready for a rebuild check to make sure the crank has no play if none then dont bother with it. if the cylinder doesnt have any gouges or scuffs you can leave that be also. b/c there is no reason to bore a good sleeve unless you like to waste money and lessen the life of ur parts for no noticeable gain. now with ur bog if you took the lid off and ur coming back with good plugs run it that way. i might be wrong but i think the jets fmf sends with the pipes are to be run without the lid anyways

that hill is nowhere near 70 degrees at all you would need climbing gear just to walk up it nevermind drive a car up it. it is probably not even 45 at 45 degrees you have to walk on ur tippy toes and cant stand on it without falling over im guessing the hill is more like 25 to 30 degrees and thats if it is really steep :smile:

i bought a set of jugs off ebay about 6 monthes ago im not sure if they were damaged when i got them or if i did it. but anyways i have a knick in the top of 1 of the jugs about a 16th inch wide and less than a 32nd deep its just deep enough to feel. the o rings for the coolhead keep burning at this knick. i have tried everything i could think of to try to make it work and no luck. my question is would it be ok to get the cyinders planed just enough to get rid of the scratch. has anyone ever tried planing the jugs b4?

it is a nice bike but not worth 75k lol. anyone that would be dumb enough to pay that for a quad deserves to get ripped off

id look for another solution. double gaskets always seem to leak on anything

i dont even think you have to go that far as i remember all i had to do is unplug the entire keyswitch harness from the main harness. im pretty positive that all that i had to do

it will probably fit but you will probably have to cut the battery box out of it. and probably have to drill new holes b/c im almost positive the seat on a warrior is shorter.plus it is gunna look REALLY FUCKIN GAY and cheesy with a kinda square shaped front end and round shaped rears. if you want fullbores spend the money and get the full set. dont be a redneck

you kinda wasted ur money on those pipes. the gnarlys are made for bottom end and ur intake setup is more for top end. with the setup ur running ur not gunna get the full bennefit of either mods. and with the 17 cc domes you will always have to run race gas but anyways ur jetting is probably close. that thing is probably gonna be a dog out of the hole and on top end

check for broken or burnt wires had the same problem b4 after fucking with the stator and found out that the wires got disturbed and they were sitting on the mid pipes and got burnt. i didnt figure it out til i seen the wires arcing on the pipe at night.

yea the wheel bearings are easy and worth it. lol if i remember corectly the needle bearings in the swingarm are a mother fucker to get out. put all the new bearings in the freezer for a while b4 installing the it makes them go in easier

im no jetting expert either but it sounds like ur running out of gas not air i would make it a lil richer

i did it and had no problems just tie the high and low bweam wires together so you will have light on both positions since the trail techs only have 1 beam you dont have to do that but whatever way you do it you wont burn anything up as long as it is regulated

using paint cans for a base doesnt always mean a shit job. fuck with the right amount of clear i can make a 3 dollar can of no name paint from the dollar store look like something that was done with car paint. but in this kids case it sounds like he is using krylon fusion and didnt read the label you decide if it needs another coat as ur spraying the current coat not and hr or 2 later i usually take a 1 beer break between coats and get it hot as hell in the garage when spraying rattle cans like hot dry air so it can flash fast and have another coat baled on fast and then cleared without a quality clear its always gunna look like shit tho

look on e bay or rmatv it is not called a plus 4 axle its an adjustable width axle it goes from i think stock to + 3 and 5/8 basically plus 4 they work great look good and best of all they are only like 175 bucks

im no expert with jetting but i think 2 positions is alot to move the needle right off the bat. also advancing the timing may demand different fuel needs so id suggest putting the needle back where it was and see what happens then adjust slightly until ur happy

nice bong. does it come with a bag of reefer

i had a very similar problem it turned out to be the cdi. it had very intermitant spark so i rattled everything around and i smacked the cdi with my hand and it would start. im guessing there was a loose connection in the box. so i replaced the cdi and didnt have anymore problems. so try tapping on the cdi and see what happens you might have the same problem i did

it might just try it and see what happens. post ur results

ive seen them b4 and they do look sharp on a banshee

that wont work very well on a stock stator they will light up on the stock stator but you would be better off using a lighter for headlights i think the stock output is less than 100 watts and ur looking to hook up 110 plus ur taillight it wont burn wires or blow anything up but it just wont work for shit. the regulator only has 1 wire on it that shoots directly to the light switch so i think tapping into that blue isnt gunna make a difference anyways. bybassing the regulator will not let you access extra wattage. ur bulbs will blow up b/c the regulator aborbs excess voltage

why

how did you check the displacement without knowing the stroke length. and you did have the head off to mic the bore as a matter of fact for you to add 90 cc if my math is correct you would have to over bore th jug roughly 5.5 mm wich would be something like .130 over im not positive but i dont think you can do that with stock jugs the thing has to be a stroker or the guy lied to you