TJScott

yes, get some aluminum wire if you want to be safe and weld it up. liquid metal works great too! put a few coats of both liquid metal and jb weld on, thats what i did and i never had a problem.

im having the same problem. sorta. my banshee tried to start and backfired. i will let you know. check the flywheel.

yes, i run it on diesel :biggrin: i torqued it to spec, i forgot what it was, probably like 50lbs. i will check the flywheel in the morning.

torque wrench :biggrin: i had it pinned racing it before it happened. so id say it was hot enough. i will check the flywheel tomorrow. pistons are brand new so it should have enough compression.

i was wondering the same. i guess it was hot enough in there and my compression is good enough it detonated under compression? anything i can do to test stuff without an ohm meter? i went all over my electrical, what can just go out all of a sudden? my idle screws were loose is why it wouldnt idle.

nope, got rid of those poopers.

Thanks, I checked that but thats not it.

I was racing today and coming down the hill after winning I pulled in the clutch and coasted. It died on me but it doesnt idle that good anyways so I didnt think anything of it. When I stopped I couldnt get it to start again, gas looked low so I filled it up. Out way away from home my brother pulled me home on his ltz400. I dropped the clutch while going to see if it would start and all it did was ping and backfire so I quit. Took it back home, plugs were black, but I knew the jetting was rich, I run it hard on some drag races so my jetting is to suit that, so letting it idle fouled them I thought. New plugs, no spark, all electrical connections are good, where do I start?

i now know its your comprehensive skills failing. ive made my point and all you have done is put words in my mouth and use what i said could happen as a solid fact against me. im done in this thread.

oh, thanks to Utleybanshee too.

thank you sir, for explaining myself.

thanks, lol. yeah i used all of that stuff, i bored those cylinders and stuck a couple Wiseco Pro-Lites in them. 04Chase, is your banshee on nos? LOL! i had the banshee on for 10 seconds before you couldnt see anything with all of the smoke, lol. thanks to everybody who sold me stuff and helped out dave 5.0, nitrotate, 04 chase, mikenick, destination powersports, dc cycle, mototips.com, thumpertalk.com, bansheehq.com, and all others who i forgot.

well it may have been implied that way, but no. i was not calling it a common occourence.

why dont you read page 99. they wouldnt just put this out there if it didnt happen. http://books.google.com/books?id=SlL970Dgj...aFgNgF#PPA99,M1

like i said, im done trying to explain this, if somebody else understands what im saying please explain. i will repeat this one more time... torque specs are to make sure you get the proper amount of torque on each nut and GET THEM ALL THE SAME! if you do not get them all the same drastically the head will begin to warp. if you do not torque them all the same, but only by 5 foot lbs or so it can take up to 20 years for it to warp. you may have warped a head and not know it, you cannot tell just by looking at it. i am making sense, you are just not understanding it. whether im not doing a good job of explaining myself or you just dont get it i know i am making sense.

im done trying to make this simple enough for you. enjoy your banshee.

are you serious? youve never seen an 87-89 banshee with the original head? anyways all im saying is just because you havent had any trouble with your banshee heads warping only speaks for you. just because you never had any trouble doesnt mean everybody else is going to be ok too. you said you havent used a torque spec since 2001, well what im saying is thats not enough time for yourself to see any results. a huge chunk of cast iron isnt going to warp in a couple of years because its not torqued properly on all sides. the main reasons for torque specs are to make sure all sides are the same and that you get them tight enough.

So as many of you know I just recently got my first banshee running. It was doing great yesterday during break-in. On the last stage of the break in my brother pulled up beside me about 20mph on his ltz400 wanting to race so I gave it a little juice and I didnt see him for a good 5 minutes. Anyways throughout the day my clutch kept giving in on me. after thinking it was the cable and rerouting it, i realized that the clutch itself was not doing much. So I took a look at it. The holder nut on the clutch adjuster came loose and off. It got into the clutch somehow but the teeth look like they can be filed easy enough. I found a huge chunk of the nut behind the plate by the clutch. I found a couple more pieces and I think I have found the majority of the nut. I am going to flush out my bottom end with kerosene and call that good because the shaft still spins good like the gears are alright. I will look everything over and get back out there, but just watch that stuff guys, I didnt think it could happen.

well the whole purpose of the break-in procedure is to seat the rings against the cylinders. if you dont follow the procedure your rings may not correctly seat.

i would need a pic since im not familiar with banshees that much, but usually yes, they keep the chain up so it doesnt rub on the swingarm or whatever.

i have something similar, its a metal piece that bolts on where the swingarm does and has two idler sprockets. are we talking about the same thing? if so idk where to get another one, i heard it referred to as a pro-link once. is this what your talking about?

he might as well say, "i ride this thing hard, and it has enough power to blow itself up, not that i would know or anything, thats not why i have any of these new parts."

i know the outsides themselves are cast iron, but for some reason im wanting to say the sleeves are steel, im not sure why.

yes, some of the older banshees are 20 years old and their heads could be warping. if you get them all close to the same youll be alright, but some people are just retards and thats why we have torque specs.

the sleeves themselves are steel i believe.