fck55mph

Hey everyone! I'm helping a buddy with his 96 shee. We are going through everything. We were replacing the a-arm bushings only to find that one of the steel sleeves in the lower a-arm isnt even there!! No wonder it had so much slop. We have new bushings but I am looking to see if anyone has one of the steel sleeves...if so, let me know a shipped price to 28574. I sure appreciate any help that someone can give us!!

just FYI...DO NOT use a hardware store woodruff key...my buddy kept shearing them off on his harley...bought a hardened one from HD and it worked fine. I would make sure that you are using a hardened woodruff key

adjustable timing plate will wake it up and its a $100 mod

Just an update...it was the CDI box. Got another OEM and it fired right up. Thanks to all for advice.

Would anyone out there with a running shee be willing to swap my CDI box in to see if it is dead?? I will ship it to someone and if they can swap it and tell me if its bad, I would appreciate it. Whoever does it and if the box is bad,you can keep it for target practice!! hahaha...thanks for any help out there guys! Its the 95-96 plug style too

im going through the same shit right now. My stator tested fine and so did the coil..i even swapped a coil. If you have a ohm meter, go and test your key switch and the kill switch. test the coil,check all the wiring and then the last thing it could be is the cdi box. if your coil is bad, i have one i can send you and you can try it. i have a cdi and a stator on the way now. if ya know anyone close by with the same plug-type cdi, swap em out and see if it fires.

Yea, the stator tests out fine. I will try the "smack test" later on the cdi box and on the old lady later on tonight too!!

ive heard plug caps do it but you said youve been through all electrical...

wow! thats ugly...even the right cylinder piston looks scarred up on the skirt. hard to tell what that piece is.

Checked them..they are fine...even with the cap off...no spark to a grounded surface.

well,like i said, i checked everything..switches..wiring..all of it. with plugs out and kickin my banshee over, i get nothing out of the hot wire goin to the coil. so i did the same test on the blaster and the test light lights up. it has to be the cdi cuz the stator checks out..even at the plug goin into the cdi. just wish the damn thing would hurry up and get here so i can this thing goin...headin to silver lake dunes in a week.

Everything was fine on bike and one day it started then died after 5 seconds. No spark, coil tests out fine and even swapped it out and still same thing. I tested out stator at the wires coming out of flywheel area and it was in specs. I even tested stator at the connector where it goes into CDI..same..within specs. All grounds and wires are fine. So my question is, do these things just puke out like that? Just want other people who have had this happen to chime in. I have one on order from motor city atv(BHQ sponsor) but this is just driving me nuts. Also,all switches tested out fine and TORS has been disconnected and has never been an issue. Thanks for any input!!

the stator and pick up tested fine...i even took the plug caps off and tested coil...nuttin...it better be that damn coil!!

ok,just went downstairs and re-tested that way and same result..nothing. also,the primary reading isnt within specs as well. either way, i think i have found the culprit! already got one on order so hopefully get it soon and the silver lake sand dunes trip is still on

ok, well i really hate and suck at chasin down electrical gremlins buuuut...i got out the tester and tested the coil..primary .5 and when i test the secondary, i dont get anything..nothing so im guessing my coil shit the bed

97 Shee...Tors is all unplugged and was running just fine. Started it yesterday,and about 5 seconds later,it died. I have no spark now. Im mechanically inclined but hate electrical stuff. I have all the meters and test equipment so if someone could give me some direction I would really appreciate it. Making a trip from NC to Silver Lake Sand Dunes soon so I gotta get this thing goin! Thanks for any replies.

I torqued mine to spec with the goofy axle wrenches and put a really small tack weld(mig) on the nuts. It can be easily chiseled off and it has not backed off. I have also heard about using duct tape...

pipes,remove snorkel,adj timing plate,vforce 3's then get a dyno jet kit....cheap and simple mods....then port and top end rebuild later when you have the cash!

I know most people already have removed TORS...BUUUT...my 97 shee has always hated just the smallest of mud puddles. It would miss and sputter for awhile then come back to life. The first time, I did find water inside the flywheel cover. So, i sealed the grommet where the wiring harness is and replaced gasket. It happened again the other day and I was going to fix this shit for good. Took flywheel cover off,bone dry! Checked air filter box,bone dry! Put it back together and still did it. So, I disconnected all the TORS and it went away. Again, I may be the only dumshit that had TORS still hooked up,but not anymore. I guess water would get into one of the connections or something. Sorry for the long post but maybe this will help someone else who may have a similar issue.

I waited till the end of the season last year to get mine ported cuz I planned to freshen up the top end. I had Kevin@ Herr Jugs do mine. I always read on here what a difference it made. Damn! They weren't lyin! Had I known, I wouldn't have waited till the end of the season! I couldn't believe the difference! You will NOT be dissapointed with a good port job! Kevin made it easy for me. Great communication and will answer any set-up/jetting questions after!!

1 bottle of Golden Spectro(12ounces) to 5 gallons of fuel....works like a champ

Dont overlook the small shit! I let my girl ride my shee the other day and when i got back on it,the clutch was slippin..after chewin her ass for thinkin she was ridin the clutch,i thought she either burned my plates or welded the ball to the rod...it turns out the damn needle bearing on the clutch arm took a shit! Simple fix..after thinkin the worst,it turned out easy.

I need a good clutch basket,mine has alot of play in it. Guess the bushings are bad. Anyone have a good,tight one with no grooves? Thanks

Yeah, i went and got one but no luck. It is just stubborn, the inner cage came out but the outer is still in. Looks like it will be grind,chip and pull! Was lucky enough to get all the needles out with telescopic magnet. Seems like it always the simple things that cause you the most damn headaches!!

Thought my clutch rod/ball welded together but it turns out the clutch arm needle bearing is shot and was not letting the arm move freely. Any tricks/tips to getting that little sucker out? Certain tool? Thanks in advance for any replies...