swhitey917

The DMC 916 is a heavy top end pipe, switching to a 1 carb set up would not be a good combo running that pipe set up in my opinion.

I have been running GBC XC masters for the woods and have been having great luck with them. Ordered a full set of front and backs again

Yea, what he said...

One hard part is going to be the ability to offer something different that no one else offers. Competition in this market is very high and most needed things, people already have a person to turn to for.

I agree, Pump gas is convenient and I have ran it for a long time without problems. Only got a batch of bad gas a couple times. Was just informing the OP on race fuel is all and how it is more consistent = better.

Dont go off the prices they list on their websites, Those are listed high so that you will use their distributors for business. Its way cheaper when you go through a distributor.

Same solution I had to do for mine. Bent the steering stop on the frame up which was allowing the wheels to turn past full lock and sending me over the handlebars a couple times before i could make it back to camp. Might loose the spacers as well which could be causing strains on the steering system.

^^ This, Same mistake I made on my first one also.

Have a look at some of the fuels VP offer just to get an idea of the different octane ranges available. There many types of racing fuels out there just sending this for your info. If you look at the New T4 they offer, it is a 93 octane fuel made for stock to slightly modified quads. http://www.vpracingfuels.com/page469672.html

Race fuel doens't just mean getting a higher octane, its about getting a cleaner, better quality fuel. Race fuel is a cleaner product compared to a lot of pump gas out there and would be better for your motor. You can match race fuel to the octane requirements you need. Fuels like VP C10 are 96 octane and would burn much cleaner than pump fuel and would not cause any lose in power like a high octane fuel that is not needed. When people think of race fuel they automatically assume it equals higher octane and thats not the case. Most people that run race fuel because they require a higher octane and thats the only option, but they make fuel for lower octane ratings for guys that want an overall better product to use for their motors to squeeze more life out of them.

Haha well can't beat that Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where did you end up ordering them from?

Let me know if that is it or not. I thought that is the part number I used but I cant remember off the top of my head since its been awhile since I ran pods.

Thats some funny shit

got the tires ordered. Should have them today. 4 tires for $250 to my door. Hard to beat that for some good tires.

Figure it out? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hotel List for those that need it. Hotel Attica 126 N. Perry Street, Attica, IN 47918 (765) 762-3088 http://www.hotelattica.com/ info@hotelattica.com Eagles Nest Lodge 423 Market St., Williamsport,IN 47993 (765) 762-3343 eaglesnestlodge@ comcast.net http://www.theeaglesnestlodge.com/ Here is a link to several other Hotels on the north and south side of Attica. Local Hotels

JD, anyway you can bring some small aqua fuse parts with you for me to look at? I have tossed up the idea getting some stuff done but have always wanted to see some parts done in person first.

^ This. Race fuel is pricey and sometimes a pain to get but its well worth it. You never know what your getting with pump fuel and the quality is shit compared to the R&D and quality that race fuel offers. Your engine builder will Thank you in the future for using it and you will get more life out of your motor.

Jeff knows his shit. I would stick to his recommendations and ask his advice for what is needed to get away with lesser grade fuel. If it was me, I would stick with the +7 and 110 fuel.

Hell that makes me want to come stay just to see this palace lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, I believe so

I have had great luck with PEP suspension and Elka. I have ran other brands such as works, and ohlins without issues as well. No matter what you decide, you will see a night and day difference from the factory set up. If your on a budget i would stick to standard travel +2 a arms to save cost over the long travel set up. Long travel is a bit nicer but not necessary in your situation and will add a good amount to the cost. As DDQ mentioned above, I would upgrade the front now since that is the weak link in the suspension and then work on the rear down the road. I ran a +2 standard travel with triple rate shocks and a factory rear shock for quiet awhile and was pleased with the set-up since I had gotten so used to the stiffness of the factory set up from riding in years past.

He claimed that his friend posted it and put his number down as a prank. I told him I was extremely upset because i had been looking all over for a 2013 banshee and can't seem to find one anywhere. He responded with informing me that: "They don't make many new ones anymore cause everyone rides 4 strokes and sales are down so not many are produced. More are produced out in the desert cause they are better there." It was a fun little conversation.