AKheathen

if the mains are dialed in right, then start playing with the needles. i ran into the same problem with the needles that came with my 30's. way too thick top to bottom. even all the way rich, i had to keep it either of the throttle, or 1/3 throttle+

what he is saying is that it will be worth it if you find yourself coming up a little short on the top of the gear. i was also wondering which 2-1 you have because some of them don't flow verry well at higher rpm's....

J.J., you should push your crossover tube all the way in before you get a nasty airleak....

son of a bitch! my daughter just killed all that post i just wrote!..........anyways...... first, your gauge will give you a false reading for 3 reasons. you have to have a shrae valve in the verry tip, it has to screw in as far as the plug, and you are at high elevation. even pressure in both sides suggest that it may have been ok. now, you should switch the oil back to 32:1 927. clean burning oils are ok not to be smokin like a banshee, just a little bit durring startup and acceleration/rev. it will also leean you out, too. when you pull the stock, unmodified lid, you have to go up about 3 sizes. the pipes take 2-4 sizes, and the snorkel takes 1-2 sizes. elevation, temp, humidity, and fuel also effect jetting. do a bit of research in the jetting section, and it will really help you out. don't be afraid to ask questions when you are stumped. the stock carbs are really easy once you learn them. also, be really carefull about airleaks. so, aside from suspension needs, where do you want to go with your power and rideability on the engine? looking for mid-top, or lowend torque? max power? smooth operation? many different things you can do, it just depends on your budget and needs.... _Heath H_

no prob. sounds good

hahahahha, a guy names wiseass callin me an asshole for being a smartass......that's classic http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=automated+google+search ^^^ i had to figure it out, too.....

well, i baught the walmart lights last winter. i kept the 1 50 and got a 20 from lowes for 1 spot, 1 flood, and they hae handled the vibration as well as extreem hot/cold.........still worked fine today.......

check for airleaks to that cylinder, check the choke tube, and try new plugs, and swap the wires right/left to rule cap/wire out..

what size carb you running and which 2-1 setup? you will get a different kind of power........mabey a little more, and it should come on sooner and pull real smooth.

what do you mean upgraded stator? i would start with the needle 4th from blunt....that is pretty close to stock needle, mabey try th rich too. keep going up in size untill it sputters wot, and drop one...then go to the needle

yah, that's what i was talking about......eventually, it could still chew through the frame and stinger.....the rubber picks up dust and grit and works kind of like sand paper......at least try...

well....how does it run? any flat spots, hesitation, bogs or sputtering in the throttle range?

that link there, the guy has a decent deal, and you buy 2 sets when you order with the same shipping.....like >55 total

there is a way to manipulate it.......how is the clearance at the front of the pipe? you can shim the mount either at the frame or pipe to move it in or out. you can also shim the stinger mounts if they are pushing on it a little.........it will rub a hole in it in no time.....especially with any dust or dirt.....or, you can redneck it with a piece of heater hose.....

http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=banshee+dmx+cub+cheetah+twister+rotax

well.....mabey someday i'll dishout for some of these carbon tech pedals to try, but i like the way the 2 different boysen pedals shape the power right from idle...... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CARBON-TECH-CARBON-FIBER-REEDS-YAMAHA-YFZ350-BANSHEE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c08e73474QQitemZ120408454260QQptZPersonalQ5fWatercraftQ5fParts ......if you're interested......... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-BANSHEE-POWER-REEDS-350-YFZ350-RACING-BOYESEN_W0QQitemZ250533468250QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3a54f5585a

wel, the 35's would be too big for any lowend trail pipe, but they should work ok on rickets or t-5's......

they are about the most expensive reed you can buy...........they are a mid to high rpm focoused reed, and have gains over stock even down low, but there are better suited reeds......

well, the wonderfull thing about atf, is that it is a high detergent oil that mixes well with other oils. just change it and change after the first and third rides....

bingo......the thing you have to look out for is friction modifiers. people new to the banshee world will want the best oil and look tward high end "protection" but all you really want is high crush resistance and detergency, without high coushin which is wherethe protection in may modern oils are modified to hold a thicker film in the jounals and piston skirts. this, however, will prevent the clutch plates from making both complete and timely contact, neither will it dispell under pressure in order for the clutch to hold....

no, i didn't.....i plan on it, though, then doing the same on the rear and bring it back up when i go 4mill, for ground clearance...

the removal kit comes with screws to install for idle.....and it relieves strain on the intakes, so you don't get an airleak....

no, i'm not sure if there is a substitute, but it is an oil stabilizer, not fuel stabilizer

no pods for the 28's?

well.....where would you like to boost sales? i'm sure alot of people don't even know half the things you offer.......