AKheathen

TDR (tony dukas racing) has them in stock, and sells them on ebay.

to be honest, i can't remember off the top of my head. 10mg vicodin kickin in, lol. but if there is between 1/8-1/16" in/out thrust play, i'd say that's why, and if that's the case, it might cause the basket to hit the idler gear, and load against the crank seal, or case. i'll check into it or someone can chime in.

lol, i diddn't realize how much motor you had goin on there, lol.

what you are feeling is basket shaft bushing play if it's rocking, possibly missing a thrust waher if it slides in/out, and it's possible to have some rotational play if the plates are all lined up square with each-other

take your pressure plate off, and turn it 1 screw hole, and it should slide right down on the hub splines to compress the plates. that extra room is there so the pressure plate can ride the splines, or it would brake the spring posts. i can't remember where i got it from on here, but i did dl a pdf "yamaha e-book" about a year and 1/2 ago

nope. if you don't see anything loose involving the shifter/star, then it's just happening in the tranny/drum.

wow, that is a first for me. i've never seen a piston blow just from putting it in gear. i would still check the crank bearings real good while you have it out. and other than porting, stroking it will get allot more power than big bore. that is also a diecision you need to make before porting, because porting for stock stroke can take out too much material to be able to stroke it.

i can tell you those are not pyramid reeds. pyramid reeds look like........a pyramid, basically. it looks like they take vf2 pedals, but I'm not sure about the outer edges where they are supposed to taper toward the screw holes. and the slotted mount screw holes looks like they might work on blaster, too. so, i got curious....idk if it's possible, but maybe yz 125, old dt400, or 250? or uses pedals from one of them........somone might be able to measure some up for you

have one boxed and ready too

there is also another reason to run strait-cuts- if you have bearing side-load issues. max-load and especially tz bearings are less side-load friendly. strait-cuts will show their worth on high hp builds after a top end, or 3. i'm eventually going to run straits in my 4mill woods/hillshooter. also, all maxloads.

first thing- pull your clutch cover off. 10-15min with draining oil. i just about guarantee something happened either there, or in the tranny. the shock of putting it in gear could have been enough to kill an already bad crank bearing, too. if you do not see something right away looking at the gears and shifter, pull the clutch plates out and see if it's trans or crank related.

if it's the '02 harness, there are going to be a couple things different than the diagram. 2 brake light wire plugs, at the bars, and toward the rear brake master cyl. if #1 is black and black/white, that is the killswitch that plugs in along side the light dimmer switch. they are actually 2 different plugs, not 1. if #2 really is the keyswitch, it will have black/red and black.(my 97 uses 2 wires out of the 4 wire plug.) i'm not sure on #9 without seeing the whole harness. what all wires have been removed/modified from the harness (colors)

whart the hell filter setup is that?...and i can't really see from the pic what that side link does. is it to keep the swinger square when turning?

i take it, that's not referring to me?

no, the shifting problem is just from shifting. you may have a worn/bent fork or something loose. if you keep riding like that, it can chew the gears up.

maybe. what were you doing before it happened? allot of pressure on the shifter? backloading?

yah, if it's sudden, i'd suspect the fork/shaft, but gearshaft wear can make it hard.... if you find nothing, pull the gear off and check it out.

contrary to what i was told by some, the lockup is extremely usefull in trails/woods. i can let it slip and have it still hold great, which helps for traction and rideability. i slip the clutch a lot in some places i ride. i can feel it a little harder around 9k, but still able to pull just fine. lock-up or not, shifting under load is going to be hard without an override, slipping the clutch, or blipping the throttle. just put a little pressure on the shifter before bliping and it'll shift fine 99% of the time.

looks pretty strong, but i would have done a couple things. probably made little nodes, or ridge that sit inside the spring on the plate, or something to hook the shaft, to prevent pop-up, even though the angle looks like it helps. and the 2 tabs would be angled back, instead of the straps going strait up.

lol, yah stock adjustment can be a pill, and half links are hard to come by. well, run back and grab the rear grab bar and rip the bike side to side. if your bearings are shot, you can see it when you do this. take a good look at your sprockets, it should not really just streatch that much. i run $30 non-o-ring rk chains. and they are great. i was just throwing a new on on there about every 10 hard ass trail/woods/hillcimbs, then finally did my swinger bearings and front sprocket. on the other hand, you can take a grinder or something and slot the adjustment holes

because you are a freak? or because you freak danced that thing up and down the hill a few times this year?

no, calipers are not gonna cut it. you're nit trying to get a rated size, like a carb. you need to t-mic, bure gauge set, etc, in at least 6 reference points throughout the cyl, and if the cyls have been run on since the last bore, the actuall bore is going to be larger than what you read at the top. on top of that, any build-up like carbon or rust is going to shrink the reading. by all means, throw a quick oil hone in there if you have the hone laying around, so you can see what size it was, and whether it's worth boring out.

they really would be awesome for what you have going on. just do some searching, and ask q's. once you understand how entirely simple they are, and easy to tune, you'd never want to go back to changing jets, and risk throttle response.

for now, i'm just using grease on the seals, but i know for a fact, that valve guide o-ring lube does wonders in the worst shit. just gotta go get some from cat and find out if i can get the same elsewhere.

i don't see how that works..........unladen, and unsprung, the chain is at it's most slack, because of the angle.....when the front sprocket, pivot point, and rear sprocket are aligned. only thing that would change that would be a chain roller installed close, and rearward of the swinger, which i do not even see the stock one installed. so, either you put a load on it, and it wants to snap the chain or crack the case, or install a weird roller location and it does the same with upward travel. put a ratchet strap on it, and see what happens again......