AKheathen

back to the original question asking if n e 1 tried them yet. i was toying with developing a similar design for a while after analizing inherant flaws of the platnum+4 plug. my sled still sports a denso irridium decal even though i switched to ngk gold pilladium when i had to change the heat range in a pinch. the denso's do provide noticable gains, but are harder to come by, and sported a 28 dollar sticker last time i baught. n e ways, i am dying to know if anyone has unbiasedly tried them out, and what mods they have. my bike isn't ideal to try them yet, cus the temp is between 0 and 10 lately and can't get a good base comparison.

did you flip the carbs upside down and blow through the fuel line to see if it holds pressure or get the fuel and vent tubes mixed up? if it's a slow leak out of one carb, and you're hard up to go riddin, you still can. i know my needles are shot, and i rode that way, cus the dealer is closed sun; mon. it should run about half a min or so on the fuel in the bowls. i just don't let it sit and idle much and shut the fuel off when i stop a few seconds before i kill the engine. :shrug: i'm gonna getintake, jet kit, needles and seats and other knick-knacks tomorrow ne ways

so, you've rulled out fuel, compression, plugs and wires. you'll need an ohm meter and schematic and go through the electrical after you check your stator/ flywheel didn't come loose

try not to let the rings rotate while there out. they will have to reseat if they do.

dude, the only performance gain you could possibly get out of a bearing is when you switch from a bushing to roller (talking bearings in general) all you want to focus on is reliability, and what's more reliable than a product that has to be warrantied for 10,000 times it's value (coincedental damage) yamaha knows when they build the engines that they will be severely abused while under waranty, so the parts are reliable enough to last quite a while longer than 3 hours. most pistons come with replicas of stock parts unless otherwise stated- i.e. oversized wristpin/ rod/ piston package or improoved alloys, lubrication, etcetera... btw, did it go together easy and moove freely?

wholly crap, there's a vid?

make sure your plugs are clean and dry and touch the threads to bare metal on the engine. they should be sprking good from the center electrode nice and bliush. do the plugs look even or just one side looks worse i'm betting on something coming loose on the trails. i.e. wire, strap, etc. i was rippin around a verry aggresive trail yesterday in third, and tore an intake boot and exhaust coupler. the colder temps makes everything less accepting to shock.

ok, you may not need it, but it not only helps seal, but it compresses when the engine heats up, and if you put it on real tight, the threads will start to stretch when it heats up you should back the plug offand put a wrap of teflon tape on the threads and don't overtighten it, just snug

:yelrotflmao: but the piece will in crease performance banshee for omly 150 :woot: where's my wallet? i want to increase my banshee 150 dollars :beer:

u still got the shifter? is it longer than stock? i'm having troubles working my feet around the stock one.

still have the tank cover? do you have the matching rad plastic too?

a set of pro tappers would be nice. you could prolly find a set on the swap and shop or ebay/ don't forget to run the stiffner. you'd on;y have to nix the key if you use risers, cus it's in the clamp cover.

ok, sorry, i just now checked your pics, and nix what i said about the x-over tube, those intakes would work fine upside down

well... ok here's the delema. it would be good to flop the manifolds for the carbs to sit right (and don't forget to stabilize the other side of the carbs) however, the x-over pipe- akaboost tube- would fill with fuel inverting it's functionality and robbin the low end. best bet is to run them plugged, or switch to a 2-1 setup. if you plug them, make sure that they are close to flush on the inside. i would build a sick mounting plate with air horn/filter combo, cus with 18/38 cogs, i know you'll see better than 70-80 mph- more like shy of 200km/h racing an r6 i.e. :ninja: perhaps you can find longer intakes off a 340 or 440 sno-go engine, then you can relocate the tube back on top, as well as gain a little torque. sould prolly weld up a y-pipe and single large chamber now that there is room for a real fatty. whenever you can, take some ques from sno-go setups, cus in a sled, the 350 should pump 50-60 ponies on 87 octane right out of the box. wish i could fit the clutches and pipe off my 700 in there (136.4 bhp @ 116mph on 92 octane) maybey i'll check sno-go salvage to size up intakes tomorrow, cus i tore one rippin the trails today and ripped exhaust coupler etc.

all this talk about meth cracks me up :yelrotflmao: maybey i'm outa my league here, but i would just try a colder plug? it may niether like the pipes and cooler temp combo on the low end and the plug might be harder to read on meth :woot: maybey 50-60 degrees is the fine line that diferentiates between changing plugs and jetting. up here, i know it's around 20-30 degrees and you almost have to run cans and switch plugs.

not exactly. i'm here in alaska, and now that it's averaging 10 degrees, the choke is a necesity. i have to pull the choke to get it started, and a couple times while i'm rippin around for a min to get it warmmed up, then it runs right. since it only gets up to 20 now an getting colder, it's time to jet up, and keep my silencers in and don't forget to turn the fuel off when it sits, the float needles really don't like cold :ermm:

you're setup for mx/trail. ditch the boost bottle for the race, but watch out for that raptor it simply nees a powerbomb and jets to go from stock to OMG!!! :woot:

ditto :wink: needle and seat would only cause a drip

what fuel are you running? chech your choke tube and pull the pods to check that the slides are mooving right.

i didn't mean with the engine running. when you take your airbox off, the carbs pull less fuel, so when you run pods, you usually have to jet up. ,but it won't hurt anything if you're not ridding. with your kind of ridding, you want to focus more on mid to low end power. most of the people here run mods for more top end to ride drag, sand, and similar. 35's are a bit big and won't run as smooth on the low end, but give you great air flow on the top end. the 2 into one setup would work awesome for what you want to do, but don't opt for the larger sizes. smaller carb size gives you better mixture at lower cfm's and smoother throttle, with less likelyhood of plug fouling. the boost bottle is designed to smooth out the low, low end, and has to be calculated. since you went up in displacement, it's probably too small, so you should replace it with a x-over tube. this will work on the mid-rpm range, and you can make one out of i think, 1/2" copper pipe and elbows if you know how to sweat pipe. plastic pipe is too restrictive with it's thick walls. stock x-over pipes are harder to come by, because everyone junks them when they get a boost bottle, and searches them out when they take the bottle off. i'm pretty sure you'll find a stock stator if you peruse the swap and shop postings, usually with several other items, so don't just read the titles, do a search. guys parting out several bikes at once prolly have it, but someone else has it cheaper. -just reading back- you say you have "fmf headers and 50 cal pipes" just to make sure, that would be a pair of expansion chambers, and silencers, aka "pipes and cans" right? because the do make headders and tuned pipes for drag and only really work on the top end @ wot, and run like crap elswhere. fmf gold seies (the black fmf's) would be good, and fmf fatties (the big fat chrome ones) would be ok, but harder to tune on the low end. i know it sound's like a stupid question, but i'd feel even stupider if you were trying to tune a bike for mx that someone tried to tune for drag :shoothead: -just had to ask- :shrug: when i first got my shee, i didn't know if it had a thermostat or not, cus i've more experience with sleds, and the shee is it's own beast alltogether. i ride the same as you though, and i'm running stock pipes with toomy silencers and stock carbs/timing. it runns and handles great, but i'm gonna tune up a boost bottle for more controll when i'm climing in tight spots.(got loose and slammed my dg grab into a tree :sweat: lucky shot) what ever you do, make sure you fix the problem that melted the piston in the first place.

when you say opens up, you mean clears up? or are you watching the slides? i'm begining to think that you were heading the right direction with new carbs. i prefer mikuni's with the cable choke myself, but dont go too big. sounds like the slide, and other things are worn out, but i would be 105% on any air leaks fo sho. probably beter off with a stock stator than a new timing plate. stock stators perform well, and are alot more reliable than aftermarket, especially if you don't know what kind it is. get it to run good first, then upgrade. btw. did you put new plugs in? try br8's? trim 1/4" wire back and screw the caps back on. i'd hate to see you spend a lot of money before you know what the bike likes/wants to run better. once you start changing things, it's harder to find the "sweet spot" oh yah, check your clearance on the pickup.

what do you mean blurpp? hesatation is when there is a delat or dead spot when you stab the throttle. it should be crispand responsive. but first, the wd-40 trick is the same as using propane or starting fluid and spraying it on everything between the carb and engine. when the idle changes- oheywow you found an air leak. wd-40 is just safer, and i've heard of people pouring gas on it, but that's a little more messy. so the throttle lever returned, but the carb stayed wot? when i got mine, you could sit there and peg the throttle with the engine off, and would have to push the lever back to get it to pop back- just junk in the lever, but yours sounds like the slide or cable might be sticking. find out what pilot you have and how it runs from1/8 - 3/4 throttle to find what pilot size you need and put new plugs in

those jets are just for 3/4 to wot. check where your needles are at. middle knotch, sync carbs and set airscrews at 1 1/2 turns out it should be close to running good here. check for air leaks between the carbs and juggs by spraying aerosol wd-40. if the engine rpm's change, you found an air leak. search for the post on tors removal to make sure it,s done right. if it's not able to run with the carbs set like that, you probably need new pilot size. hesitation is too lean, and bogging is too rich. with the melted piston and high idle, it sounds mostly like air leak. are they br8's? you should really fix that sticky throttle

i would run 21's. on pump, with +4 any smaller risks detonation.

your right side is not burning all the fuel coming through the pilot. did you check the needle and pilot jet. mooving the needle down a knotch or 2 should help, but won't fix the real problem. check for major exhaust leaks on the right, and vaccuum leaks on the left. what mods do you have, temp and altitude. as for the solder, it should have good connection, witth no stray strands, and be adequately insulated. can you tell what kind of timing it has? what do your plugs look like?