AKheathen

when you cleaned your carbs, did you noticed if both of the bowls had the little diagonal tubes in the bottom. some came without them, causing the fuel to fill the crankcase when the float needle fails. if you turn off the fuel, and the problem goes away, untill the bowls go dry, then there's the problem. check that your float needles are not hardened, the spring in the needle works, and the floats are adjusted corectly. i believe it was 21-22mm from gasket surface(no gasket) to the top of the float, looking at the carbs upside-down

i would buy 290, 300, 310, 320, if you are going to be ridding in big temp ranges. you'll probably be closer to 310 right now, but as the temps go up, you'll be needing smaller mains. start rich, then work down, if you need. you may want to look for a fatter needle too.

welcome :beer: what's your temperature?

ok, still can't find pics, but i was talking about the little1/4"-3/8" recess cut into the side of the slides @ 45 degree angle

i was wondering that as well. abd, blaster06, i have no fucking idea wtf u just said, but i think it was a joke, and i might have laughed :laugh:

you have the little hose connected from the top of the head to the radiator, right?

i can't show pics, but the little dots line up with the windows, and there is a 45degree recess on the bottom that goes tward the outside of the bike. it's there for an idle screw when you remove tors.

just my .02, but i baught a sled that had been sitting for more than 6 months full of fuel, not premix, and i dumped it out, replaced the float needles, and have been running on 5th season now :shrug:

test between the black/white wire, and black wire at the cdi, with everything connected. if the switch turns the continuity on and of, then all wires and circuts are fine on the bike. there can be a dry connection in the cdi, and the keyswitch uses the red/black wire to turn the cdi on. the tors also uses the same wire as the killswitch. when you go to remove the tors, just unplug and remove the little box under the gas tank. the carb and throttle wires will be dead, so do whatever you want with them.

the weights put pressure more pressure on the plate, the higher the rpm's, so yah, it'll be harder to pull, unless it's near idle.

not sure that would be reliable against air leaks, but you can use copper pipe and solder. 5" center to center

they are tummy's, boost bottle eddition :yelrotflmao:

my older gold series silencers look just like that, but there is a cap that goes over the ends

you have to cut the stock cover, and seal the shit out of it, if you have the tools

that was white paint pen, the rubber's still there, just need to clean. the tools at work are'nt as nice as home, so i said fuck it, and braught them back home, before i fuck up 4 sets of cages. if you look, there is still a boarder of black rubber between the edge, and where i traced with paint. that is where the pedal seals, just don't cut into it too far. also, you can see some burrs near the bottom that needs cleaned up, so it doesn't push up on the pedals when you tighten them. this was just a junk practice set i messed up, but you can see the general shaping.

if you run them in between the reed and jugg, you will lose power, but it is an unnoticible gain on the carb side of the reeds. usually only run them to clear the clutch lever. they add one more sealing surface to worry about.

beggining to sound like the guy tried to port himself, and screwed you by denying it, and it may be all screwed. i would take the juggs and pistons to a good builder, and have him check it out. the exhaust may be too high, and uneven, giving the low#'s, or not chamfered, or too wide, but you should just have it checked before you start spending$ on it

ok, you cleaned the carbs, so check this, the choke side carb should have a little brass bead on the bottom of the reed side of the bowl, check the tube connecting the two carbs togeter on the back side of the choke for good connection, no cracks, the slides have little holes that should not be covered by the cable retainers, set the needles in the middle clip, airscrews at 1.5 turns out, and it should start up. you can adjust the jetting/needle after that. if not, check the reeds. 5 psi difference between sides is about rebuild time, but it should run anyways. did you hold the throttle wide open, and kick like 15 times? also, unscew the choke, pull it out, and check the o-ring.

sorry for the slow response, but i got it last week, everything was great, fast shipping, and nice polish job. thanks tony

i want chain, will fit 14/40 stock swinger? or i can cut. shipping$ 99516?

ok, i'm curious now why a chariot?

you can buy stroker domes for the head.

yes, same principle, just 100 watts max

i would try to flush the bearing with gas, or carb cleaner, and see if something comes ou, like dirt, or is it one spot on the bearing? use a paper towel to collect the run off. if the race is flaking, or has play, don't run it. it has to turn smoothly. you may be able to find a used drop in crank for cheaper than rebuilding yours. the head can be milled, but i wouldn't use a belt planer to do so; they tend to take off material more on one side, than the other, leaving it flat, but uneven. it is possible, with practice, and constant re-orientation over several passes. the stock heads vary in chamber size, so you will have to measure the chabers before, and after, shooting for 21cc, if you are under 1000ft asl. you can do this, by using a piece of plexi, cut a small hole, and fill with water, and empty it with a syringe to measure. start wit a .020 cut to get you close. around 150-160 psi, switch to 50/50. on this, i am assuming you are around sea level, have pipes, stock timing, and not to wild on the porting, or that may change things a little. as for the clutch gear, it shouldn't have play by hand, but there are bushing kits out there to rebuild them, if the basket's not groved. this is my.02, and would emplore you to take advise from more ppl than me, because there are several on here with way more experience than me, banshee specific :thumbsup:

i have one, i'm tryin to get an o-ring set for my powerhead. it's the same as a coolhead. lemmie know