AKheathen

all it does is adjust the rpm's. between obnoxious, and sputtering like it wants to die.

actually, the carbs will move out of the way when you pull the airbox boots, and you don't need to pull the pipes, which can be a real pita if you still have fenders.

also, replace your plugs, check by switching plug wires, and pickup gap. then, check compression

clockwise to raise. back them off untill it stops, but don't twist hard, it's only plastic nut inside. turn it back in untill the slide starts to raise + about 2 turns, start up, and adjust from there

milling the stock head is to increase the compression at low cost, and yah, the point of a cool hed is to change the domes for the desired compression. boring out doesn't really bring any power, but rather a fresh bore to work with. the lightened pistons reduce recipricating mass, requiring less force at higher rpm's to move

what is it doing to act weird? only way to check them is to pull them out. it's not that hard

does the op bolt have any slop in the swinger or carier?

just how deep and wide is the spot?

the slides are first coated with a metal primer, that has a slight goldish tint, that looks more like silver. then they are sprayed with a black anti-friction coating. if it wears through both these coatings, you'll have to clean it once in a while to keep them from dragging in the bore

it all depends on what jets are in the kit. the needles may be fatter, which will help, but depending on your elevation and temp, you could need anywhere between 270-350 mains, and stock to 30 pilots. whatever you do, don't run the stock jets with your mods

that would be the cable being too tight, causing the tors to think the cable stuck. you should have a little slack at the throttle. don't over loosen, or tighten the idle screws, or the carb switches will get messed up. remove your air filter and look at the slides. back the idle screw off untill it stops, then, screw it in untill the slide starts to raise. do the other side the same, then adjust them the same amount when you bring the idle back up. did you just put the bottle on? if so, turn your airscrew in about 3/4-1 turn from where it was. i have a whit bros. (not installed) and the tubes are 1/4" off from where they should be, so it might be a good idea to check for air leaks. if you turn your choke on and it works better, your pilot circut wants more fuel.

imo, they could've done it better. head-on looks ok, but the other profile is just wierd.

is there any black left on the slides? is it goldish? or is it raw aluminum?

it just has to convert 16 volt ac to dc

i just sprayed wd-40 on the windows, and welcome to bhq :beer:

don't forget the spring and seat colors.......verry special :cool:

1/2-3/4 german? damn! i thaught my 97 arnett was special :sad:

it goes to the top of radiator, but not at the cap

wher'd you get the "posesed dog" nerf?

lol, you sound annoyed. we're just wondering what kind of porting you're getting. the type of porting decides where the power increase is, and what mods complement it. like, if you port for low-mid, vf3 reeds really wouldn't match, but some boysens' would see more gain. basically, if you tell us what power range, pipes, etc, we could help some, but he is right about the point that a builder should be able match mods to his work than anyone else.

that's also a pic of the right slide

did you pull the knob off the end? anyways, there is a little wire clip under the boot that locks it in the knotches, and wears out often, then you have to buy a new plunger. spring, nut, then knob. 4 things to check on the choke circut; the tube between carbs, the o-ring on the end of the plunger, the bowl on the left carb should have a brass bead you can see from the outside, facing the cylinder, and the slides have holes that shouldn't be covered by the cable retainers. there is also a little choke jet inside the bowl, where that little bead is on the outside :thumbsup:

it fires a waste spark, like some cars, meaning they both fire at the same time, so you can't get them backwards. thanks, that was what i was talking about

that's just the tranny breathers.

ok....here we go again. i'll try to keep it short how it works: the resonator (original name for boost bottle) absorbs the return pulses that sneek across the reeds. the pulse causes a double-enrichment effect. absorbing the pulse makes the air pass one way at low throttle positions. what it's for: the point of eliminating the double enrichment is for better metering at partial throttle. for this reason, you do actually have to richen the pilot vs. the x-over pipe. on larger 2 stroke engines, such as snowmobile engines, there is much more noticeable effect on both top and bottom because the resonator works as a crossover passage where there was not one before. what it actually does: on the banshee- mutes the snap, giving a more gradual power increase. the only 2 uses i found for that effect are, better controll on verry technical trails, where throttle controll becomes difficult, and giving my daughter a ride around the yard, up and down hills. other than that, it just takes the fun out of playing around. on a snow machine- if you want to keep from burning up belts trail ridding, it's a quick bolt-on solution with a slight added boost effect in the midrange, coining the nick-name "boost bottle" facts: Yamaha developed the resonator Yamaha uses the crossover tube on the banshee because it performs way better. the resonator was designed for 4stroke, and not as a shared chamber. hope this helps for now. i will have dyno tests this summer running bottle, tube, and plugs on different reeds, timing, and filter setups on a low-mid bike