potpye

Having some problems jetting, I get a low RPM breakup problem on my banshee, imost noticeable in 1st gear, if you jump on the throttle from a dead stop the bike seems to have a suttle sputter/breakup coming out of the hole. Runs strong half throttle and up top. Should I go to a 45 pilot? I run VP C12 with Amsoil Dominator mixed 32:1. We are in the Pacific North West and ride at sea level in Oregon. Specs, 18CC Domes 80 Over pistons Aggressive Porting +4 timing (plate) 33 PWK Carbs - 48 Pilot - 152 Mains - Needle on Middle Clip (CGL) - Air Screw 2 Turns Out, went out to 2 1/4 with no noticeable difference - Carbs are synced every time they are removed. High output Ricky Stator New Coil and Caps Direct Drive Lockup CPI In Frame Pipes V-Force 3 cages

Ported properly and the CPI'S pull hard from bottom to mid, at least with my setup. T-5s are great I ran those before my CPI's. If you are looking for a good bottom and mid pipe get t-5's and stay away from the t-6 IMO.

Porting to the pipe is key for best performance, i loved my t-5's but with my setup the CPI inframes gave me way more power all over the board. The t-6s feel really flat to me on any bike I have ridden so I dont recommend them.

I would go with CPI inframes, or t-5s both good pipes. The CPI's on my bike made a big difference over the t-5's, the CPI's gave me way more mid and top end.

Are you running stock carbs? For porting Contact Shane at Barton Built 360-539-7956 he does great work and can make a 350 scream. I would bolt on a set of PWK carbs and V-Force reeds as well, advance the timing 4 degrees.

CPI inframes, if you have any doubt give Mike at CPI a call he is very sharp.

I would Port the stock jugs to start, if you get them done right they will run good and hang solid with a 4 mil. I have no problems smoking White Knuckle's 409 Cheetah motors with my Barton Built ported 350. I would send your jugs to one of these guys Mike at CPI racing, Shane at Barton Built Racing, or Lynn at LC Performance they do good work IMO. I know that there is site sponsors that do good work as well.

I would go 3 gallons of Sunoco 110 with 2 gals of premium. Or if you want the best run VP C12 IMO. You will want to stay on the side of more octane rather then not enough as detonation will destroy a motor.

You should have someone that knows what they are doing, you cant just hog the jugs out. Also you have to be careful when drilling the boost ports as you can go through the side of the cylinder real easy.

18CC should get you in the ball park

Can you explain more about what the bike is doing? Also what kind of fuel are you running with those 16CC domes? When I had that much compression I could only run VP C12 in my bike no other fuel would work. Does the bike tend to fall on its face at high RPM, you should be able to determine this by 3 or 4 the gear. Also what gearing are you running, and tire size?

I would clean the carbs with Break Cleaner and then blow out every whole and opening with air. Do the float bowls have fuel in them? It sounds like you are not getting fuel. I would run the following: 300 Mains 27.5 Pilot 2 Turns on the Air screws Set the needles to the middle position to start with. You definitely want to make sure the carbs are in sync.

I use the B&M trick shift which is a type F. In my opinion type F works the best its cleaner and I seen a lot less clutch wear.

927 lubricates well but it does leave alot of carbon, I switched years ago to Amsoil Series 2000 then to the Amsoil Dominator. Amsoil burns clean does not seem to separate in lower temps.

I would start off with dialing in the pilot circuit, also what are your air screws set at? Be sure to get your carbs in sync.

Sync the Carbs this will make a big difference and prolly resolve your issue

If you are on a budget have the stock head shaved take .030 - .060 out of it. Cool head with 18-19cc domes will be the ultimate way to go. With these suggestions you will need to run higher octane fuel.

If you run 17's run VP C12, I had 16's and swapped them out to 18's what a difference the 18's let the motor rev more up top. BTW C12 has 108 motor octane it is more consistent than most fuels.

where on the west coast are you located?

A billet basket may not be a bad idea.

Use some caution avgas is dryer which will cause higher motor temps which can cause a melt down when combined with advanced timing and higher compression. Avgas is designed to atomize at higher altitudes.

B&M Trick Shift is what I use it works great, it is a form of type F ATF we have been using it for years it is cleaner and is wet clutch compatible. Regular oil is not wet clutch specific.

It sounds to me like a bent needle, check them out to make sure, I would also check to make sure the carbs are clean including the pilot jet make sure there is no sand or specs of dirt anywhere in that circuit this will effect that 1/8 to 1/4 throttle. Use break cleaner and compressed air.