T_Shee

Maybe something a local machine shop would be best for. If u make a mistake the cylinders could be trash. A lot of shops won't charge much for that type of thing

hard to tell from the picture but looks like a solid deal for 1500. just start by taking care of all the maintnance issues like bearings, seals, bushings etc. make sure jetting isnt lean. then go ride and have fun

thanks man

not irritating me at all. all good questions, just thought you could get more accomplished a lot quicker with a phone call. carry on.

not to be a dick but just pick a builder call him up and get all the details worked out. i would highly recommend wildcard because he has great customer service, not to mention all the help he has already given you. you could get all these questions answered plus have an estimate in one simple phone call

done did. thank you

ill take it

great guy to deal with right here. very nice pipes too

looking to buy some chrome shearer inframes in good shape. txt is best way to get ahold of me 317 408 0546 travis

pipes sold. sorry

just checking to see if anyone would be interested. i have chrome r2 pipes and thought about trading for some chrome shearers also in good shape. text if interested 317 408 0546 travis

i agree

forgot to mention the cylinders are powdercoated flat black

mine is a k and t 4 mil top end with 19cc cut domes and wsm forged pistons. wanting to trade for a 4 mil top end that is drag ported complete with domes and pistons as well. my bore is at 64.50 and is still pretty fresh just put together last summer. got the cylinders from bigred350x on here and he can vouch for them. i have been extremely happy with this setup and will only trade if the right deal comes along. i have a trx250r for trail riding now so i can drag the banshee a little mroe. text would be best way to get ahold of me. 3174080546.

a friend traded for a banshee that had been set up for flat track i assume. it has +2 a arms on it and yfz shocks. only problem is it sits so low that the a arms are parallel to the ground. so my question is what all would be involved with putting these shocks back to stock length? or would we be better off to ditch them and buy something else? they need rebuilt anyway so if its not a huge ordeal then i wouldnt mind to get them back to stock since he already has them.

I am thinking about going next saturday (new years eve). Prolly a couple others too. We'll see what the weather does. Its 47 and sunny now

whats up stanley. i may try to make another trip up there this year if the weather is tolerable. ill check back to see what everyone decides. so you still got your banshee? saw it for sale at mullins about a month ago. i stripped a rear hub and went down there and let him bend me over on a set of used ones. then on my way out i saw your bike sitting there.

dont think so. i had chariots in there and had the problem now have vf3 and same problem. as for plug caps i have tried a ton of them because that is pretty much what it feels like. i bought some brand new ones as well as trying tons of used ones. im gonna play with the jetting some more and put a new harness on when i quit being lazy. im hoping to do some riding this weekend hope to know something by sunday

Has a billet cap. Did same thing with stock drilled cap. Pickup gap is good and pickup coil has les than 20 hours on it. I made a dual feed petcock out of stocker but I know it doesn't flow any better. Doesn't feel like bowls are running empty cuz it pulls hard when it stops missing out. Floats are set to spec

I let it warm up pretty good. Doesn't really matter tho. It always does it for the first couple hard rips no matter how long I been riding.

I've tried backing the timing off before and it didn't help. I'm gonna try again tho

i dont think so but i am gonna play with jetting a bit more. i currently have 45 pilot and 152 mains. plugs have always looked nice and tan. when it cooled down at night a couple weekends ago they started looking a little lean so i adjusted the needle. also i am running 180 psi per cylinder and straight 110 and amsoil domiinator 50:1. im getting ready to order another harness just to try. i cut my harness down and moved my cdi and regulator to the front so maybe there is a bad connector in the harness or something.

it only gets better when i run it hard for a couple passes or thru the gears hard a time or two. i can be riding for an hour in tighter trails and as soon as get into an opening and get higher into the powerband it starts cutting out. then after a i run it hard for a bit it goes away. one thing ive been thinking about is excess fuel laying in crankcase from slower riding maybe gets sucked up when i get on the pipe hard. but doesnt explain why it does it when the bike sits and cools down for 10 minutes.

Ya I clean them pretty regularly. It shows no signs of being lean

so i have been fighting this problem for a year or so now. bike is a 4 mil stock cyl. dune port by k and t with 35 pwk and r2 pipes. bike starts and revs great sitting still. but when i take it for a rip it will cut out at higher rpm for the first couple passes. then once it is warmed up and cleaned out it is fine until i shut it off and take a break then i have to go thru the same thing again. also when trail riding it runs great as long as we are just going thru the trails. but as soon as we hit an open patch and i open it up it will cut out until i run it hard thru the gears a time or two. it feels kinda like a plug cap but it is more random and you can tell it is missing on both sides. i have tried so many different combinations of parts over the past year and nothing has really cured it. i have tried countless plug caps (new and used) cdi, 2 stators. coils, flywheels etc. my next step is to get another wire harness and try that. i have always used the br8es plug and my timing is currently at +6 (tried stock timing and no difference). maybe i am missing something so i was hoping someone would be able to catch it. thanks in advance. i should also mention that i have had different top ends over the last year as well as different jetting combinations and none have made this problem go away.