boneyardbanshee.

whooo whatcha gonna do when Hulk runs wild on you!!!!! Haha, Sorry couldnt help myself. I really like the Fullbores but I for one can not stand yellow, on anything, it hurts my eyes. Silver or black would look great for either setup, maybe gunmetal, charchol, hell anything but yellow.

Amsoil Dominator 50:1

sure did

Yes, thats what makes it a 4mill. With smaller engines you will not gain tons of power on bore size alone. Thats where the stroke comes in. Now on a large V8 sure, but there are alot more pistons, and they are larger so they all add up to make the large power increase. Make sense?

Well I have come up with alot of different designs, looked at my 250x to get some ideas cause Honda uses the round setup from the factory. Still wasn't happy with the options though. In another thread (this one ) he shows a slick sprocket gaurd that would be very simple to make. Not sure how to protect the rotor still but this is a good start. We usually go to Wellsville a couple times a year, usually when the Rumble On The Ridge in Adena is held. Should be there April 10th and we always hit the one in Septemeber.

This is just what I have been looking for. Great idea. With the Banshee the sprocket would bolt on from the carrier side and may have some clearance issues but I think it could be worked around to work just fine. I was worried about protection with my roundhouse, this should provide some peace of mind at least. Prototype tonight. Now, what to do about the brake disc haha?

Unless you are going to sell it to someone who really knows Banshees, or someone on this site, I wouldn't put that front end on to try and raise the value. If it is for yourself, then sure. But remember that the more you moddify it the less you will get back outta it. Built mine from scratch, got over 6k into it. Not in a million years will I get anywhere close to that back out of it. When I buy quads to fix and resell I do the bare minimum to get it in good running condition and then do cosmetic upgrades to make the person want to pay the extra cash. Some PC here, pollish there, make it shine and put it out front on a sunny day. Sometimes I make alot, sometimes I barely brake even.

Just got a new swinger and was wondering what you guys are doing about skid plates for them? I guess for the most part I am not worried, but I do ride all sorts of terrain and some is very rocky. Wellsville Ohio is the main place I am worried about, that place is very rough in places. I was thinking of making some kind of removable brackets mainly because I dont want to weld permanent ones on this very nice swinger. Any opinions?

Right, I didnt say you did. My statment was to seal the pipes off when they go in the tank. The other way would be to weld caps on them. If you plugged them then you would not have the issue of the carbon contaminating the tank or not. Chances are your not gonna get it all out, even if you do the shop may still say no. But if they are sealed, they may be ok with it.

"Told you so" "pay me later" WHOOOO!!! ^Your girl Here^ your intials in cursive smilly face holding up the finger or a ball sac, show them your nuts haha

You would have to ask him to be sure but I want to say Yamaha.I could be totally off base on this though. I know alot of guys were using a street bike fibers and different plates or vise versa a while back but I can't remember now. It has been awhile since I can remember them talking about it. I was looking at this site for a few years before I signed up and have forgoten a ton of info haha. I am sure it is in the search archives somewhere.

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yeah, you don't need one for the other, they can be run independant. Just the plate without the flywheel or just the flywheel without the plate or both together.

I am willing to bet that noise is from the clutch running dry. I had it happen to me once. The seal behind my front sprocket opened up and puked oil everywhere. Sounded like the bike was screaming at me to stop. So I did haha.

A lightend flywheel will make the bike rev faster. 1 oz. is what I have seen them lightend to but not sure on the ideal weight. No opinion on the Ricky flywheel here, never had one. What does a degree key do that a plate wont, leave you stranded. They have been know for failing if not installed properly, a plate wont break and is adjustable where as a key is not.

no/yes no/yes

+4 is what most people on here reccomend for pump gas. If it is running rich it is more than likely in your carb adjustments I am sure someone who has a closer setup will be able to help with that.

Wow that is impressive. But I have a ?. Why cant you just put expanding rubber plugs in to keep that crap from coming out? Dont get me wrong, I think cleaning that carbon out is a great idea but surely those plugs would be fine in the dip tank and would be a better option than welding caps to seal them off.

Another thing I noticed, it is freshly rebuilt with "stock bore" pistons? Can you elaborate on that? Not seeing how that can be right unless they have been resleeved.

I would be real careful on moving your timming up trying to fix a problem. Can you give some feedback on how it acts when riding. How it sounds, is it bogging, hows your clutch look? Carbs clean and adjusted properly? Air filter clean?

Free chrome, hell give him the whole bike haha, frame and all.

+1 one the freezer trick, a practice I have always used it can save alot of headaches

Well yeah and no. Higher hp bikes need the heavier springs to keep it from slipping when fully engaged. It is about clutch feel also. You dont want a clutch to be completely engaged or completely disengaged. You want a certain amount of slipage so can can feather it in certain circumstances. Unless of coarse you are a drag racer. It will depend on how you ride. For example, I have a Dirt Digger that I have ran for a long time now. It came with heavy and lighter springs. After testing out both I ended up using three of my stock springs and three of their heavy springs. That gave me the clutch pull, feel, lockup, and slipage I was looking for so that I could ride alot of different terrrain. I can drop the clutch for a drag and not have it slip, and I can feather it for rough hillclimbs. The pull isn't so bad I look like Popeye at the end of the day and if I have an extra person on board it wont burn it out.

I personally would get the cheaper kit for now to get it up and going. Also I belive the fast kit has wider fibers and may not seat correctly on worn hubs. If I was going to get the FAST kit (and I do plan on it when I need a new one) I think it would be good practice to get a new inner hub and pressure plate so that it all breaks in together.

Alot of factors are involved there but I would say anywhere from 70-150. Maybe even a little more. I know thats a wide price range, but different coaters in different areas are gonna charge, well, different prices haha. I have not done custom work for awhile now ( I do mostly production work now ) but I have a sign in my shop and it reads: Services Offered: Fast Work-Cheap Work-Quality Work, You can choose two. I would just call local places and see what they say. See what they offer, and see if you can do some of the work yourself to reduce their labor and your price tag.