Meat

RZ 350 CYLINDERS... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230587035369&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT Check out these YouTube videos of these RZ cylinders. http://youtu.be/Sg-NuJ0E6Kw http://youtu.be/hJghuUzBBA0 Up for sale is a set of Yamaha RZ 350 cylinders in great shape. Bore size is .050 over, which makes the bore at 65.25, which gives it 361 cc's. The pistons that were used are marked 1.25, you should have 2 or 3 more bores left on these juggs. I had the rings get stuck in the piston on the left cylinder and it lightly marked the sleeve in that cylinder, but there are no deep scrapes, I can NOT feel any marks on the cylinder wall when I run my fingers over the sleeve. They will need to be bored up to the next size to make em perfect. These juggs were taken off my '85 Yamaha RZ 350 and were freshly sandblasted so they're ready for your powder coat or paint job. There is NO porting work done to these juggs. STOCK PORTING Power valves not included. I have a matching sand blasted stock RZ350 head in my other auctions. I can combine shipping costs. These cylinders are going to be shipped at a flat rate of $20.00 dollars to anywhere in the lower 48 US States. I will also ship worldwide, buyer will pay for shipping. Item is already boxed up and ready to ship. RZ 350 HEAD... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230587017531&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT Up for sale is a real nice stock Yamaha RZ 350 head in great shape. This head was taken off my '85 Yamaha RZ 350 and was freshly sandblasted so its ready for your powder coat or paint job. This head is in perfect shape and ready to bolt on. Comes with a thermostat and temp sensor. No pitting in the domes at all. I have a matching set of sand blasted RZ 350 cylinders in my other auctions. I can combine shipping costs. This head is going to be shipped at a flat rate of $10.00 dollars to anywhere in the lower 48 US States. I will also ship worldwide, buyer will pay for shipping. Item is already boxed up and ready to ship. Check out this YouTube video of this Rz Head. http://youtu.be/GLVQ7Gbq2JM

Read the label on the oil you use. Oils are formulated to be mixed at certain ratio. Mix at that manufacturers recommened ratio and then jet accordingly. If your building a drag motor and/or have a big fancy high dollar motor, then look into alternative mix ratios.

hey man good to see you around

Took me awhile but I got em.

You almost got it. There's two small problems you did. First if you look at what you pasted in the IMG tags, you have "http://" in there twice. Secondly, you tried to link up your whole photo album. You have to link up the actual picture and not the entire photo album. Edit: Looks you got it

Hey Dan, thanks for replying. I hope I didn't come off as being an ass. Its just that there's a few simple rules to follow in this forum and price and location are two of em and posting a pic is not a rule, but a recommendation. I have a TJ and I would love to see what ya have and what your askin' for em. I'm located just south of you in Shamokin. Your picture problem. Let me help you post your pictures. What I think your problem is, is that your are trying to upload your pictures from your hard drive directly to the BansheeHQ. This is the wrong way to do it. The right way is to upload your pictures to a hosting site, I use Photobucket and it works great. Once you upload your pictures to Photobucket, then you come here to BHQ and post a reply, above your "reply box" you will see a series of small icons. Hover your mouse over the incons and find the icon that says "Insert image". Go to your Photobucket account, find the picture you wanna post and get the pictures URL info and paste it into the "Insert Image" dialog box. Its a lot easier than I make is sound. Let me know if I can help out more with the picture posting, its a little confusing until you post a few pictures to get the hang of it. PHOTOBUCKET LINK

na, post em here instead. I would also like to know the price and where in the world your located.

pictures, prices and the sellers location might be a good idea

haha right on, me too. How bout that Cutler. If I new he was such a baby I woulda picked the Packers. What a faker. I read the Bears fans were burning his jersey in the parking lot. Said he wasn't limpin or anything. The Steelers played a dominate first half, the second half not so much, but they still pulled off the big plays to win it. I'm so glad they went for the first down on that last drive when it was 3rd and 6. I was yelling "don't run it, don't give em the ball back !!" And Big Ben delivered. Palamalu and Hines Ward both had a quiet game, and Harrison is usually more involved too. It sucks that Pouncy got hurt, I didn't hear anything about his status, hope he's ready for the SB, he's a Pro-Bowl center.

I'll let Chris Q know.... he rides an '05 and he's rippin' his motor apart soon.

Last year I switched over to Redline's Lightweight Shockproof tranny oil and I dig it. Its blue in color and sticks to everything. Their "lightweight" is a 75W oil. If you watch my YouTube video's you'll see the newest videos show me ripping down my 250R to replace the counterbalancer and you can see the Redline oil on the clutch parts. The quad was sitting for at least a month after I drained the oil and when I took the clutch side cover off, everything was still coated in blue oil. I run it in my RZ too. My RZ and 250R would both stall out when I ran other oils and didn't warm up the oil really good before I took off, but after switching over to Redline, I could see a difference in the warm up time. Let the quad sit for 7 days on a cold October day, fire it up, warm it up for a few minutes, work the clutch lever a little while warming it up, click it into gear, commence to ripping it up. Redline 'lightweight Shockproof' tranny oil, check it out sometime.

$2100 for some bent tube steel and ball joints I went to work yesterday and the T-pin was still there but I forgot my camera, swore to myself not to forget the camera for Saturdays' pic opportunity and damn it I got drunk on Friday night, woke up running late for work and forgot the camera today. (First time I got drunk in about 10 years ... and prolly the last time I get loaded in another 10 yrs, I don't know how you guys can do it ) We'll see what I can do for Monday. The YFZ with the T-pin front looks super bad-ass, the guy has a full MX setup, the quad is low and wide and T-pinny. I was lookin at the quad today and thinking to myself 'I can't believe I forgot the camera again today'.

Bears will win by 3 or more. Steelers will beat the Jets by 28, and then beat the Bears by 38.

I moved it and Im not leaving a copy of the thread in the wrong forum with the "MOVED" icon next to it any more. I'd never delete a thread, so if you guys post in the wrong forum and your thread disappears, you'll have to think about where it might have been moved too.

I remember posting a similar comment about Gibson's expensive A-arms about 7 years and boy did I get yelled at. LOL I won't be able to snap those pictures I mentioned till Friday.

We have a yfz in the shop right now with these arms, if its there tomorrow I'll snap a few pictures. The old pro-trax required you to use Laegers steering stem, the new versions use a standard aftermarket stem. $2300 bucks for these arms and spindles.

Thanks everyone. Does anyone have a picture of the pods with the zip tie on em ?

Hey guys I got a question about K&N pod filters rubbing on the exhaust stinger. This Banshee has 34mm PJ's, a big ol' ModQuad billet intake, K&N pods with the angled boots and FMF Fatty pipes. The right sides pod clears the stinger pipe by a good 1/2 inch, but the left side's pod is just barely touching the exhaust stinger, touching enough that It is going to melt the Outerwear and possibly damage the pod filter too. So what do I need to do in a situation like this ? -denny

unbolt caliper from brake stay mount for the rear caliper or unbolt em from the spindles if your working on the fronts. remove brake ressy cap use a C-clamp to press the piston back into the caliper remove the two allen head bolts that are holding the brake pads, these bolts are called 'pins'. remove the old pads, and install the new ones. ???? Profit Do not remove the brake lines from the calipers Put some anti-seize compound on the brake pins when you press the piston back into the caliper, make sure you press it all the way in.

I would love to see a controlled scientific test done on the inline coolers.

Remove the original stem, match drill bit to hole in rim, drill new hole, plug up the original hole with another valve stem that is mounted so the long part of the stem is inside the wheel.

Me too, I'm done for the season. I fucked up my motor about 2 weeks ago. I haven't ripped it apart yet. I'll have it fixed and ready for the springtime.

I'v mounted at least 10 sets of Swampers and haven't had any come back with the beads unseating. I put 6 lbs of air em for the customer and then they can drop the pressure to whatever psi they want. 1-1\2 lbs of air sound really low, especially on non-beadlock rims. Most sport quad tires run between 3 and 6 lbs. Some tire beads just slide right into position on the rim without making a loud pop, but the Swampers should make a nice POP when the beads are fully seated, at least one side should make the POP sound. Air em up yourself to make sure they're seated. If you confirm that they're fully seated and they still come off the rim, then you just can't run such low of an air pressure in em. Also, the 12.5 inch wide Swamper is pretty wide. So perhaps your rims are too narrow. Rule of thumb is your tires should be no more than 2 inches wider than your rim. Most of the Swampers Iv'e mounted stuck out pretty far past the edge of the rim. Find out your rim size number sometime.