dirtydownunder

20 ft/lb = 27.1nm 22 ft/lb = 29.8nm as larry said there is a knob at the end of the adjusting handle (loosen the knob adjust torque setting then lock the knob) do it in sequence as big lazza said 10ft-15ft-20ft get it hot and go for a lil brap let it get cool (i let it cool over night) then back one nut off at a time and torque to 22ft/lb. always tightening the nuts from the middle out. make shaw the head and cylinders are spotless. i like to use new o-rings when ever the head comes off.

i heard that air filters, filter to much and actually filter some of the oxygen out of the air. as stated your better of with out them ive got a stock shift star modified that wiil make your bike faster. $67.88 and its yours.

hah well that explains why it looks like real chrome haha. hey with such long travel, on full compression (front) does it push the camber alignment positive much or do you adjust your camber for that point ?

how do you go hammering it sideways ? seems pretty high and id get scared kicken it sideways around a turn. that spray chrome looks just like polished chrome ! awesome stuff right there !

one double choc pop tart and half a twirl. final offer.

102.4mm from base to deck. (70hr like new cylinders)

never liked octane boosters, they are more of a band aid solution if you can even call it a solution. can you get avgas at all ?

cerval but for 70hp you should build a stock cylinder 4mm, my under standings of the cerval cubs were 80ish+ hp with a nicer curve than the cheetah cubs.. we will find out soon i guess. 70-75hp is stock cylinder territory tho....

will be a fun lil setup man, i got similar setup. hjr dune port, +6degrees timing, vf3, open box, 20cc domes, t5's and stock carbs = just over 60hp. if you run paddles you could use an extended swinger but if not you will just spin the tyres anyway, even on road surface.

no my problem was very specific to a certain rpm and load. (5400rpm, high gear and only at WOT but was good past 6400rpm)

yeh i didnt have any probs with 1/4 lines either, i just ran tiny hose clamps, only probs i had was with the carbs them selves. 160 is a good start point from 350 mains.

nice set of crows feet snop !

well it is summer, and you's are all wearing dresses.

no you dont have to re jet, but id just buy some 19 or 20cc domes and keep the cool head. whats your mods and current jetting ? your profile is to many clicks away

i dont know what arms they are, but if you take them off and measure the inside diameter of arm (where the bush goes) and measure the bolt diameter. then take those measurements to a shop and ask to match up a bush. stock bushes could fit ?

i emailed them about a cheetah kit aswell last week, and he gave me a reply with all prices then a few mins later emailed me back to say, not to take notice of that first email and just to ring him. hahah, first ever conversation was wrong haha. im staying hjr... as everything is awesome with them so hows ya bike now man ? had it back on the dyno ?

man, that sucks ass big time. sorry to hear it. yeh fuck cheque's aye, cash is cash yo. my neighbour was selling his quad and a guy seemed keen, so he came around with his dog and asked if my mate could hold the dog while he test drove the bike........ never seen him or the bike again. The dog you ask ?, it was picked from the dog pound and simply just used at bait, that guy did the same thing with 3 different dogs 3 times that day.

probably around 150-155psi on a healthy motor. do a squish test and see where your at... as you say, it could be the domes.

just cc'd an adapter i had and it held .4cc, which is still enough for a few psi of comp. 3cc would be a big difference in compression.

how big is the hole in the adapter ? most adapters have a little hole, so it may be a little off but not enough to see a big difference in pressure.

what will read lower is an adapter that isnt as long as the spark plug thread, as the adapter is smaller and takes up less space in the chamber. id find an oring to seal up the adapter to the dome. do you have both plugs out, holding thottle open and kicking till the needle stops ?

try again ? i dont know what your trying to say.

tusk clutch's a pretty good for the price. its only the stock plates that have to be staggered as they have a dimple on the plate (arnt a perfect cirlce on the outsside) and its the dimple you stagger, after market clutch's are perfectly round and dont need to be staggered.

whats yo squish at ? you need orings, they seal stuff. with the adapter your using, is the threads the same length as a spark plug ?

stock toomey t6 jetting, is 280-290 main with their needle and the lid on your air box and 12 1" holes drilled into your box and lid. with the pilots at around 1.5-2 turns from seated. (close to sea level and warmish temps) if your not running a lid at all, you'd be around the 290-310 main. what jets have you in there now ?