jjn56

Yeah I do, is this the same thing as lining the arrows up or is this something different? What section in the manual? I was looking under clutch adjustment 2-15.

What's he want for the 250? I'd get that if its not to much.

Yeah, if I pull in the clutch the noise stops also, So if I disconnect the clutch cable and push on the arm untill I feel resistance the arrows should be lined up right, how much off can you be and still be OK, I'm about 1/4" off to the left of the bike looks like.

Is there any way to check this without taking the clutch cover off? If not will I need to drain my coolant and oil or just oil?

When my Banshee is running it is hard as hell to almost impossible to get into nuetral. As soon as you shut it off its no problem, pops right in. Whats going on. Also if you start it in Nuetral there is some grinding sounds but not real bad. Don't hear it in any other gear. Shifts through all the gears no prob also.

I've got the Banshee broke in after the rebuild and was out riding. It seems like it loads up at about 1/2 throttle and hesitates then takes off like a bat out of hell. I'm thinking its probably getting to much fuel and after it burns off it takes off. I'm thinking the needle needs adjusted, I'm on the 4th clip right now so I'm going to go back to 3rd clip. What do you guys think.? Only other variable is I'm still leaking fuel out the right carb sometimes, could to much fuel in the bowl or stuck float cause this also?

Mine did this also, I think its your float or needle valve. If it got in your pipes then its in your crank also. I took my pipes off and stood it on its front end and pulled on the kick starter to get it all out. Does it leak fuel from your bowl also?

Well I went home at lunch and fired it up and drove around for about 20 minutes and for the first few minutes it was pouring gas everywhere but after that it quit so I'll keep my fingers crossed that it stays that way.

Stock position is 3rd clip down, try taking the airbox lid off and the air filter out and spray a little starter fluid into the carbs and then kick it.

Bump, Did you ever get your leak figured out? I've got a similar prob and have done all the same trouble shooting also. Except mine leaks just sitting there cold.

Well I was leaking fuel real bad out of the right carb so I took it apart and cleaned it and ordered a carb rebuild kit and put in new needle valves and seats. Put it back together and its still leaking just as bad as before. The floats are set at about .86-.87 which is within spec according to the manual I checked with calipers so I know its right. What else could it be? any suggestions? Thanks

never mind, just found them on ebay Thanks

OK, Sorry I'm a newb when it comes to Quads with Chains, explain to me how you add 1/2 a link?

It's probly got 1/2" of play in it 1/4" each way, Its tight enough the bottom roller won't go back on. I was thinking about maybe going on an easy ride and see if it'll stretch out a little. If I replace the chain should I get new sprockets also, the manual says you should but is it really necessary, none of the teeth are broke.

My chain was adjusted all the way out and was still to loose so I cut a link out and adjusted it all the way in and I can get it on but its pretty tight. I had to take the bottom roller off to get it on. My question is what bad things can happen with your chain to tight? Should I just break down and buy a new chain, I'm kind of tired of throwing money at it right now if I can get by without it.

If you are stock right now and you are "going to be" doing these mods to your bike then you ABSOLUTELY will need to re-jet, no way around it.

Took my carbs off and I am going to put in my Idle screws today (I found them), take a look at this picture, the left carb has a brass tube about 1 1/2" long sticking up and the right one doesn't. Is this how it is supposed to be or should they both have one? Also the needle valve seat (pointed rubber part) had a slight indentation, would this cause a fuel leak and should I replace them or just clean them and put it back together.

I'm leaking gas and reving real high at Idle. I measured my float and it looked fine and cleaned it out but didn't help, I'm looking into and air leak and stuck needle and/or cable adjustment next.

I would drain all my radiator fluid and take the head off and make sure nothing got in the cylinders then put it back together with a new gasket. Re-torque all your bolts after the first couple rides also.

Thanks for the replies, I got the instuctions off toomey and it doesn't sound to bad, I'll go ahead and do it next time I pull the carbs. I might have the Idle screws in a box of Shi# the guy gave me i bought it from if not I might take you up on the offer for those screws. I'll try adjusting it from the handlebar first also. They sell the whole kit on ebay.

I recently bought my 1st Banshee and just noticed today that when the guy put in the TORS eliminator he didn't install the new Idle screw. I'm probably going to go ahead and install it when I have time and if I can get the parts without buying the whole kit, but can this cause any problems not having it in?

Thanks, I'll check that out. There also seams to be less smoke and air coming out of the left pipe, would that give an indication to what side might have the air leak?

Did you ever get your Idle working right? I have a similar problem and was curious. I just put mine together this weekend after a top end rebuild and it revs high at Idle also. Other than the new pistons the only change I made was carbon fiber reeds. I have LRD pipes, 280 mains, stock carbs, foam filter with lid, 1,500 elev. Also I'm leaking fuel.

Thanks for the replies, I started with a rounded file then went with the chainsaw f ile, it was real slow going so I bought a 249 piece dremel set at Hrbor freight for $14.00(gotta love the cheap china crap) and it had every bit you cold imagine. I was real careful and I think it turned out good, got it put together today and ran it several times and so far so good. My carbs are way out of wack now so i got tot get that lined out.

I agree, there is no reason you cant learn to do anything yourself. Especially in this case, I've seen it done before. I never pay the man if I can help it unless the cost of the tools is more than paying the man.