2001Stroker

Sounds almost like a sales gimmick. I wonder if the nitrogen might make you a little lean.

Yea, porting would be much cheaper. For a Cheetah, you're looking at anywhere from $1,500 to $4,000, depending on what size you want to go. And that's for just the parts, and you doing the labor. A Cheetah PV is made by the same company that makes the Cheetah Cub. CP Industries. It's a power valved motor. The power valves change your exhaust port timing, depending on your RPM. It comes pretty much drag ported, but with the exhaust port timing being changed, you have a ton of low end power. The power band is almost just like a 4-stroke, and very smooth, but you get the power and scream of a drag ported 2-stroke. Same motor that I just put in my bike. Mine's a 10mil 535cc Cheetah PV. And yes, I ride aggressive trails. I might take it to the drag strip, just to play around with the rice burners a little. :biggrin:

Doesn't matter. Leaded helps cool a little. Leaded fuel is more for old ass 4 strokes, to keep the valves lubed. You can use either. Most racing fuel is leaded. I use leaded 110.

Yup, you're good. You could go up to 98 or 100. I'd just check for pre-detonation before I went with that much though. 20cc domes is kinda on the verge of needing more octane. But, you do have the timing bumped up some too. So, maybe go ahead with 98. That's more than enough.

You should be fine with 93. What's your elevation?

IMO, you don't want a Cub in the woods. I say option #2, or a Cheetah PV.

Yup, steel wool. And maybe some Naval Jelly and some elbow grease.

Mine used to do that. I had to put alot of ass behind it to get it out. Take it completely apart, and put anti-seize on the shaft and inside the lever. Put an oversized o-ring on it, and you'll never have that problem again. It won't ever rattle anymore, neither.

You need one that screws into the plug hole. You have to grind it down to the same length as the spark plugs. Yes, you have to hold the throttle wide open. You're gonna have to kick it around 15-20 times to get a good reading.

If it isn't mushroomed, you could try what I did. Drain it, take the clutch cover off, and tip the bike up on the right side tires. Should fall out.

Yea dude, you don't have to buy that $250 kit. Just rip it all out. They sell a block-off plate, that looks almost like the brake block-off on your banshee. It's cheap.

Nobody ever said to turn the water on and walk away. What I meant was, turn the water on, and crank it right up. Water flowing through the water pump keeps it from burning up.

All time favorite? Tank Abbot. Fat, sloppy, redneck, that straight up street fights.

This is before I took the engine out of it, and freshened it up and cleaned the hull out. So, don't mind the oil slobbered all over it from the oil injector hose busting. lol. You can see in the bottom center where the motor mount is bolted to the hull. The empty spot to the left of it, is for the motor mount for the 1100.

I can't remember what the hp is on the 3cyl. Actually, I just looked at some of my pics. There's a hose fitting coming off the back of the head (i think that's your blue hose). That's the water hose hook-up. That's all it's for, nothing else. It's my brother's SeaDoo that has a t fitting.

I can't tell in your pics if it does or not, but mine has the motor mounts in it for the 700cc, 2cyl, and the 1100cc, 3cyl. The only thing you change is the exhaust manifold and the pump shaft. I'm thinking about finding an 1100cc on eBay, and throwing it in. Not sure though.

I'm not a big fan of the colors on mine. It's partially sanded down, and primed right now. I'm thinking about going with the same colors as my Banshee.

I edit my last post. Mine's almost just like yours, but a 3 seater. It'll go about 48ish. Not bad for it's age.

The oil injection changes the ratio with the rpm's. Personally, I don't like it. I got rid on mine. You can buy a block-off plate for it. It just goes into the front of the crank, just like a oil pump on a chevy motor. Here's some of my saved jet ski sites. http://www.rivayamaha.com/ http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_cata...equestid=488224 http://www.xtremeparts.net/jetski/main.cfm...CFSasGgodiwhw-Q http://www.jetworldpowersports.com/ EDIT: I have a 1996 Wave Venture 700cc. That's it on the right. That was me and my neighbor playing around behind my backyard.

WHAT!? Hell no. The water has to be running before you run it. You also don't shut it off until after the motor's off. If not, you burn up the water pump.

I have that same motor in my ski. That blue hose in your pic, I have a hose hook-up that t's into it, with a shut off valve.

I don't see any reason why my 535 shouldn't be reliable. Use quality parts, and build it right, with the proper tolerances, it should last forever.

If you look at this diagram, it shows where your heat range is supposed to be. Right in the middle of the bend of the electrode. With gas, that's where BR8ES and B8ES usually burn. TwistedSheeRida, you might want to make sure your 9's are burning in the right spot.

I have the front fender brackets. Powdercoated gray. $15 shipped.

Decent looking bike, but I don't think it's worth $5,000CAN. I just looked up the current exchange rate, and that's $4,438US. But, who knows, it might be worth more up there, than it is here.