2001Stroker

Goof-Off makes them nice and soft. Stickers come right off with that stuff too.

I have ProTaper ATV mid bend. It's about 1.5" lower than stock, which I like alot. I'm 6' tall, and I like to crouch down a little, so they fit me perfect. Here's what the difference looks like. Stock Bars ProTaper SE ATV Mid Bends

The e-clips go on the stator side. Keep them from punching through the case. The shift cam retainer holds the front one from coming out of the clutch side, and there's a tab behind the shift spring rod that holds the other one in. You can see what I'm talking about right here.

A 4mil has a considerable amount of power over the stock crank. Get it.

I always take out both jets, and make sure they are good and clean. I use a torch tip cleaner to clean in there real good. I've actually had a pilot clogged, and it worked perfect.

He is a great guy to deal with. I sold him my billet intake, and he paid immediately. Hey tundish, I just found a few stainless hex head bolts in my toolbox. Did I send you the bolts for that intake? If not, send me your mailing address, and I'll get them to you.

blaster2006, you're really wasting your breath with this topic. I can't beleive that you're defending your oil to the point that people don't like you now. It's not worth it, to argue this "fact". Nobody gives a fuck about what oil YOU think is best for everyone else's transmissions. Get over it. You use your oil, and we'll use whatever the hell we want to use. None of us have had problems with any of the oils that we use, so we're going to keep using them. P.S. I don't give a shit if I have to change my ATF every 2-5 rides. I like it so much because of the fact that it's so thin. Viscosity really doesn't matter, since the transmission slings oil everywhere inside the cases anyways, and there's oiling baths inside the cases, to catch the oil and drain it back onto the gears. Thicker oil robs your engine of efficiency.

Nice landmark.

Damn, that is one awesome rearend setup. Tim is a great guy to deal with. He gets a :thumbsup: from me. Dude gets an A+.

I also have a set. Never matched or trenched. The top case has been whacked, but I have the pieces here. It's 2 chunks. They just need welded back on. I'll get rid of them fairly cheap. I can get you pics, if you want them.

I have a set of stock shocks for sale. $85 USD, and I'll ship them to you in Canada. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...=109865&hl=

I just got my Direct Drive lockout from utley today. Dispite him shipping it 11 days after I PayPal'd him for it, and it looking like it was hit with a ballpein hammer a few times, and the fingers having some wear on them where they hit the pressure plate, everything looked good. I will say, All the hardware was there though. For the amount that I paid for it, I expected a brand new looking lockout. I ended up sanding all of the marks out of it and made it look like new again. But, I ain't bitching. Just thought you would like to know my experience with him.

You're putting WAY too much thought into this. Just do it, and be happy with the results.

I wanna see how that thing's coming along man.

Yea, they're pretty cheap too. They're just regular 3 stone hones, but really small.

I think the only thing that I would have left out is the chain roller. I would have got the slider instead.

Yup, that's it. I usually take the wheels off, and stick a catch pan under them. Or, you could keep the bleeders on, stick a clear hose on the nipple, and point it into the catch pan. It's just a little faster without the bleeders on, that's all.

Damn, that's some nice stuff. All 3 shocks, for that price, is awesome. Yea, I think I'd keep that wifey.

You can buy additive for automotive paints, to make it flexable. Or, you could PC them.

I've heard of people having to sand a little off of new pads to get them to fit. Also, check your slider pins, to make sure they're going in all the way. I usually put a thin coat of anti-seize on them.

Trust me when I say this..........Gravity bleed them. Just take off the resevoir cap, take the bleeder valves completely out, and let it bleed on it's own. Keep tapping on the calipers with a wrench, to help get the air bubbles out of the calipers. Make sure you keep filling the resevoir. Let it bleed on it's own for about 30 minutes. It's a slow process, but works great. Just so you know, the fluid isn't going to come out of the bleeders fast, it's going to be slow.

Unless you have a show bike that has graphics or airbrushing, powder coat is the way to go.

Call M&M ATV. Andy's a great guy to deal with.

Damn, sucks to be you. j/k. Try getting some Permatex Gasket Remover in a spray can from the local auto parts store. It eats PC pretty quick. So does Aircraft Remover, but it's expensive for doing that little area. Spray some in there, and let it sit for about 4-5 minutes, then try to unscrew it. Don't get it anywhere else, cause it will fuck up your PC. Just spray it down with water to make it stop working.

Interested in the radiator. Fins in great shape? Got pics? Thanks.