FREAKSHOW

I HAVE SOME PARTS FOR SALE. THEY ARE ALL IN GOOD CONDITION BUT ARE NOT SHOW QUALITY, BUT LOOK GOOD. PROCIRCUT PLATINUM PIPES 200.00 IN GOOD SHAPE , HAS SMALL RUST AT THE TACK WELDS THAT HOLD TAG ON. PWK 28 CARBS 150.00 DUNE PORTED CYLIDERS WITH STANDARD BORE 200.00. STOCK CRANK IN DECENT SHAPE 100.00 (NOT WELDED) PRM BUMPER 40.00 AC GRAB BAR 20.00 NEEDS POLISHED STOCK SHOCKS 20.00 SPRINGS HAVE WEAR FROM SHOCK COVERS UGLY GRILL 20.00 G FORCE EXTENDED HUBS 50.00 COUPLE SMALL CHIPS BUT HARDLY NOTICABLE STOCK HEAD 20.00 STOCK AXLE, PAINTED GREY AND PAINT IS CHIPPING. 50.00 BILLET FOOT BRAKE LEVER. 50.00 ALL PRICES ARE PLUS THE RIDE AND ALSO ALL ARE OBO. SO SHOOT ME A PM FOR MORE PICS OR GIVE ME A CALL WITH ANY QUESTIONS 541-326-9116

VERIFY YOUR CHOKE IS WORKING. NEXT TIME THE ENGINE IS RUNNING AT IDLE PULL THE CHOKE ALL THE WAY OUT AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS. IF ENGINE TONE CHANGES THE CHOKE IS WORKING. MY SHEE DID THIS, HARD START ( WORSE IN COOLER TEMPS) , I FOUND IF THE VENT LINE ON FUEL CAP WAS PRESURISED WHILE KICK STARTING IT FIRED RIGHT UP. LONG STORY SHORT, CHECK TO SEE IF THE FLOAT BOWLS ARE ON THE CORRECT CARBS. AND BE SURE THE JET IN THE LEFT SIDE CARB FLOAT BOWL IS NOT PLUGGED (IT SCREWS INTO BOWL ITSELF, NOT THE MAIN JET OR PILOT). THATS WHERE I FOUND MY PROBLEM.

IF ITS JUST THE BOOTS, YOU CAN BUY THEM FROM CASCADE. THEY ARE GOOD QUALITY AND SEEM TO LAST.

X2. FIND A SET OF PIPES THAT FIT YOUR NEEDS... YOU WILL SEE MORE IMPROVEMENT THAN JUST DROPPING IN A 4MIL. SPEND THE 700 BUCKS ON OTHER UPGRADES AT THIS POINT.. I LOVE 4MILS BUT YOU NEED OTHER COMPONETS TO COMPLIMENT THAT UPGRADE ..

LMFAO!!!!!!!!!!!

if i was gonna get 28s get the pwk flatslides,if not,save money and bore stockers to 28,as you prob already have an assortment of jets.mikuni jets wont go in a keihin.personally,no shit,the thailand carbs from keihin,being as they are fake,are way better casted and constructed than the real keihin.the only difference is the thailand carbs have different main jets and needle jets than a serialized keihin,so in order to get accurate parts for a pwk you would have to switch alot to get a real pwk.i just am salty with the way u spend $300 on 28 real pwks and you get a shit casting and plastic idle screws.fuck that shit.plastic?!really!!!!!!the thailand carbs come with cast screws which is at least way better than the real pwk.its a coin flip. x2 ON BOREING THE STOCK ONES. x2 PLASTIC IDLE SCREWS. SEND YOUR STOCKERS TO CASCADE AND BE DONE.

If I got this right, you used a torch on your calipers? Once you do get them removed I would recomend that you rebuild the caliper. It is pretty simple to do just some orings to replace . You might of damaged them with the heat. As far as getting the bolts out for the pads, I would use an impact driver before drilling them out. If the head is stripped try the next size up allen socket (might be a standard size) and beat it in and then use the impact driver. But replace the bolt once removed. As far as your other issues I will let someone else chime in on those.

WHAT CARBS ARE ON IT? STOCK?

Yep. That is true, I was just stateing what I have done. Trying to help a guy out.

I have ran both. PWK 28 and stock . The pwk's hit harder but the stock carbs seem to be a smoother power. I like the stock carbs better for me, but if I had to put money on it the PWK's build more power. I have herd from many people and found out myself when jetting the PWK's it is verry dificult to jet out the slight bog on the bottom end. I am verry picky about my throttle responce though. Many people also say they don't notice it. Just my .02

I second checking the reeds. My shee did pretty much the same thing. It turned out the through bolts on the v force 2 reed cage came loose and elongated the bolt holes in the center reeds. look at them real close. Just my 2 cents.

The swing arm bolt is hollow, so if it was me I would cap off 1 end with a pipe plug like 1/8 in. Then on the other end put a zerk fitting (thats a grease fitting). Then i would drill a small hole in bolt to allow grease out of the center of it up to bearings, now your concern of how to get to it is fixed also.

The bog is at about 1/8 to 1/4 throttle, And my question about the carbs was are the stock ones big enough aka 26mm for my engine ?

ok please bare with me this is long winded but I want to put all the info out there to get proper feedback. I have a 2000 shee, when I baught it , it had a real nice drag port done to the cylinders, this thing screamed, 4 mill crank, 5 mill long rod, pwk28s, t5,coolhead 17 cc domes, k&n pods, 157 mains and 48 pilots.It was way to much for me and the riding I like to do. So I wnet to a local atv shop that specialises in 2 strokes. Mainly banshees. I had him port a set of cylinders for me that had a little less top end andd a little more bottom end. He did an awesome job, nice boost ports and the whole job was clean and profesional. So I took them home and rebuilt the top end with the new cylinder and 19cc domes,. Got the engine running ok and off to the coast on vacation I go. this thing ran like crap, I faught the jetting the whole time, dropped from a 157 all the way down to a 142. it ran ok with the 142 butt still has a bog at 1/8 throttle when it idles for a minute and you get back into it. i tried dropping the pilot a coule sizes but didnt seem to cure. so i went back to the basics, checked compression=ok, carbs sync=ok, check for vacume leaks=ok, float level=ok, needles are at the same height, my plug checks looked perfect at a 147 main. but the bog was killing me. so I never got it fixed on my trip and returned home after spending 3 days messing around with this thing. Returned to the shop I had do the port work and explained the problem I was having. His respoce was I will never get those carbs right, the stock carbs are way better. no matter what you do to the pwk28s you cannot jet out all of the boooog. Well thats where Im at . My thaught is there is way to many pwk 28s out there running just fine........ why would stock carbs fix this and pwk 28 cant? why do i have a bog now and didnt before i changed cylinders? are stock carbs even big enough for my engine, will they flow enough air? my current setup is, .020 oversized, 4 mil crank,5 mil long rod, dune porting, v force , t5's, pwk28's , coolhead 19cc domes, k&n pods. it mainly gets ridden at sea level. 142 main and 48 pilot. where should I go from here? more jetting? stock carbs? Is anyone outhere running a simular setup and could give me a good starting point on the jetting? pilot and main.... Is it common to have to change the pilot when the porting is changed even though engine diplacement wasnt?

I have 13- 41 gearing and it seems to roll as easy as my other shee. I jacked up the rear and rotated the rear axle all is well. I'm not sure of my pilot jet (and its clean) but my main is a 310. I am at 1350 ft elivation and engine has no mods other than wiseco pistons. No port work and head is not shaved. Too Fat on main jet? could that cause this big of problem. I pulled plugs and they dont seem to be overly saturated.

carbs are synced and adjusted . they are indexed properly also.

OK, I baught a 2002 shee about 2 months ago, I completely rebuilt the motor, new seal kit, gaskets, and top end.I follow the manual to a T. I also installed tors elemination on carbs and completly cleaned them out. I got it all together and it started on the 3rd kick. engine runs great , It idles well and revs right up once the throttle is moved and then comes back to idle once throttle is let go. It runs perfect UNTIL you try to ride it. Once you try to take off the engine boggs and tries to die, If you are lucky you can fether the throttle and keep it running. the olny way you can get it to move is to keep the rpms up and feather the clutch to get it going then you still have to keep rpm's up to keep it moving. So i removed carbs and cleaned and installed. Same problem. I got a can of staring fluid and sprayed all sealing points and engine rpm didnt change, I sprayed around stator and in clutch cover hoping to find a crank seal causing this but engine tone doesnt change at all. I think I have eleminated a vacume leak. What am I missing? There is not fuel leaking out of carbs or out of exhaust and engine seems to be running on both cylinders.

THANKS, YOU KNOW YOUR STUFF!!!!! SO THERE IS NO REASON TO BE CONCERNED?

I just baught a 2002 banshee. This is my second one. When I baught it I knew i had to replace the crank seal due to burning transmision fluid smell when it ran , the price was right. So anyway I got the engine apart and notcied that the pistons were aftermarket but once I got them cleaned up I found 1 had a 513MO6400 witch is a wiseco piston std bore. The other piston reads std 513ps cd and there is another number at the top A37b4 I have seen a few stock pistons for a shee and this doesnt look like a stock one. Does anyone know what brand this is? by the looks it appears to be forged but I have been fooled before. I have done a bit of digging on the web and found no answer. It is almost a spitting image of the wiseco but the numers on it have me leary of putting it back together. What do you guys think? One more question I have is what do people use to reassemble the stock clutch basket when you grind off the rivets to replace the rubbers. I have a hinson in my other shee and that one bolts together. Do I tap and counter sink the bolts like a hinson? Or I have herd people talk of riveting them. When they say rivet them are they refuring to a 1/4 in pop rivet with a long enough shank? Is that strong enough? Please help I am lost...... thank you.

Is there a way to measure float height on these carbs? Yes I know if there is fuel coming out drain, it is to high. What I am wondering is there any tricks of the trade on setting the float level with the bowl off and turning the carb upside down to deturmane if they are to high or to low?( ie a good base line that is known to work) I have been fighting an intermitant problem with fuel coming out the float overflow line and I have replaced the neadles and floats. Any advise? thank you for your help.

OK, Parked the 250r and Just got my first banshee, 2001, 4mil storker kit, bored .050 with modquad intake, v-force and 28pwk's on it. The left cylinder is spiiting fuel out the exhaust and i mean alot!!! It does this until the engine rpm gets to the top of the power band. The engine is real unresponsive then all of a sudden comes alive.( I know 2 strokes are supposed to do that but this is bad). the compression seems good, I removed the left carb disassembled and checked everthing and it appears in good shape. put back on and same problem. The carbs are syncronised. the jetts are both 155. It seems that the carb is flooding that cylinder. Any idea's ? OH yea, will stock carbs feed this engine or should I stay with pwk's ? Thank you verry much!!