Misssppelllleddd

If you have the old crank then measure the rods. Other than that I dunno. Try calling Hot Rods?

I had the same problem too but I just had a bad stud. I had it on 18ft lbs and the stud just broke in half. Anyways you should take that stud out. Whether it be the stud is bad or the threads in the crankcase, you need to remove the stud. That way you will know what you have to do. You will probably have to resplit the crankcase halves to take it out and put a helicoil in. Helicoils will work just fine. Just make sure you have the right helicoils before drilling.

My 87 cylinders have a 2GU. I know that is the beginning of the VIN number on 87 'shees. But I dunno if it says that on all the cylinders.

It doesn't say on the box?

I thought we were all gonna park here. And word to the post above. Haha! :biggrin: And my name is Tyler. I'm really looking forward to this.

I'm running the Dynatek FS ignition unit and I was just wondering what timing curve should I use to have more bottom end power based on the mods listed in my sig? Does it matter which timing curve I use when breaking the engine in?

I run the engine until it is warm. From 125 degrees to about 150 degrees. Not hot. I'm pushing 180 compression. I have to run 110 fuel at least. But I have a little less than a month. I hope I'm not breaking it in while I'm at the Badlands.

Ok an update on my ol' shee. I will be getting the new domes and all other necessary parts sometime this week or early next week. Leak down test on the 26th. And I gotta break it in by the 10th. I think I can make it. I hope the local race shop still has race gas. :biggrin:

never knew we could park there but it works! i prefer the 11th too. don't forget to add me to the list. :biggrin:

Add me to the list! I've never rode a rhino before! :biggrin:

Anybody know where to get a good plug lock? I think I really need one just for added assurance.

I don't have a timing plate. I have been running the curve 1 on the dynatek. Should I have a timing plate with the Dynatek?

122.5 transfer and 186 exhaust

The only way I know to add travel to the suspension is to buy a new shock. What kind of suspension do you have? Can you adjust the compression?

I use a PWR. It is thicker than stock and it ran me about $350. It is a great radiator. I have no problems overheating and it is very durable. My stock radiator was shot so I managed to find a better one at a good price.

I recently rode my friends YFZ450 with a steering stabilizer and it was pretty nice. He said it is a bitch to install but it works great. Has anyone tried it on a 'shee?

Has anyone tried an inline radiator cooler? Do they even work?

Currently I have the Trinity Stage IV 33mm Keihin 2-1 setup. I was thinking of going to dual carbs. Not sure yet. With all the mods in my sig what size of carbs should I get? What advantages would I have by switching? Where should I get the setup?

agreed :biggrin:

What I have always done to check for a leak on the crank case was that I would spray contact cleaner on the crankcase and wipe off all dirt and oil. Then I would ride the old 'shee on the road up to a good hot temp and check all over to find the leak. It could be from anywhere. From the crankcase halves, to shaft seals, to the dipstick, to the clutch cover gasket. This may not answer your question but it is a good way to start looking for the leak.

I have run the B9ES before and they didn't last as long because they are a cooler spark plug. I didn't have my jetting set up for them but they fouled up faster. I have also run the B7ES which I did not use for very long because of pre-ignition. It's all about how you have your bike set up really.

Take a stud to NAPA and they can match it for you. You can get taps there too. If the threads are ripped out then you can helicoil it.

I have the 8 plate clutch system and I really don't notice much of a difference between it and the 7 plate clutch set up besides my shifting feels sorta "mushy". The first gear pops right in place like usual but my 3rd and 4th gears seem to be a little hard to pop in place. My 8 plate system is the complete setup all the way down to the springs. I don't have any trouble with the inner hub rubbing the clutch cover or anything. I have the Trinity shift cam mod which the only thing that I could see that was different was a bearing on the cam and no difference to the shift star. I adjust the clutch according to the manual. I adjust the screw on the inner hub far enough for the clutch arm to line up with the mark on the crankcase and then I adjust the cable. I have a billet powershifter so it doesn't flex at all like the stock one. This problem happened after I changed out these parts. Could I be overlooking something?

You will probably get the shocks first. The rest will probably come about 6 weeks later. It sucks but it's the way it is man. I truly hope better for you though. :biggrin:

If you set up a 'shee right. You will smoke a YFZ.