crustydemon

What is the purpose of a Amp link and does anyone use them? I see them on ebay all the time but didnt know what they do.

No I have never had any vforce reeds so I dont know for sure but I would figure with more surface area for the air/fuel mixture to enter the engine, the vforce would have a bigger potential for making power and better throttle response granted you had the proper jetting and pipes.They are just a little too expensive for me to justify buying them.

Im running them without the stoppers on stock cages. I think they are a good cheap upgrade but Imo I dont think they could compare to a vforce.

It pisses me off is what it does. All I have to do at night is either read the posts on here or buy shit on eBay. Its getting pretty damn expensive. Might just be time for another girlfriend...probably be cheaper.

Yeah, what he said.

Piston seized in the jug or a chunk of anything jammed somewhere will do it.

No,No,No!!!! Take the cylinders to a machine shop and let them look at them. The machinist will be able to tell you how far he will have to go to clean them up. Then buy the pistons and take them in and have the jugs bored. To do it properly you have to use the piston manufacurers recommended clearances.

Do what you want to do man, I think its a good idea. If you want to sell the blowed up piece o shit PM me with a price, I may be interested.

Cylinder might be ok if your lucky. Mine did the same thing. Just had to get the aluminum smears off the jug and a light hone fixed it right up.Make sure you check everything out to find out why it leaned out so you dont do the same to your new top end.

How cheap is cheap?

Yes you need the key even though the crank is tapered. They do get damaged a bit but all you have to do is grind or file a little off to smooth it out and it will fit or get a new one. You dont want to over torque the crank nut that holds the flywheel either(like to try to force the flywheel over a bad key).If you dont use the key your flywheel will slip and throw the ignition timing off.

Thanks for the link. Thats just what I've been looking for. Now I can become the "Banshee Ghost Rider".

I thought that is what I said?I didnt mean stock bore size and by blueprints I mean a list of FACTORY engine clearances not a picture of something.

Blueprinting is just a term an engine builder uses to make you think they are doing something extra, some will actually charge more to blueprint an engine. The real meaning is as was stated,to bring the engine back to factory specs but you dont want to put an engine together using all the factory specs anyway.You need to follow whatever the piston manufacturer recommends for side wall clearance as different pistons are made of different alloys and higher or lower silicon content which will change there thermal expansion properties. I also doubt he has the actual blueprints from Yamaha for the 350 twin although most of the important ones are in any good service manual.Just let your builder do what he wants and dont question it unless he trys to charge you for the blueprinting.Ive been a machinist and engine builder for over fifteen years and I always keep a log of all clearances and measurements taken during final assembly and send it with the customer so there are no questions. :biggrin:

You will for sure need to rejet. Like the grinch said, start rich and work down from there. Do not ride it anymore at WOT until you have jetted it or you'll have bigger problems to deal with.

It probably isn't a HotRods crank. The numbers dont match anything Ive found. If anyone has any ideas please let me know.

It got in there from a melted piston.Ok, thanks I'll try the acid and see if it will come out.

Does anyone know a good way to get melted aluminum out of a chrome pipe without wrecking it. Its got a good even coat in it as far as I can see. Couldnt have done a nicer job if I tried.

Heres the deal, I got 3 cranks and I would like to know what they are. The first one is in my 03' and it has "29L" forged on the rods and crank webs or counterweights or whatever you guys call it near the journal.I figured this one might be stock but it is new.The next one is one I bought off ebay that the guy said was a used 4 mill that needed rebuilt( I know that was stupid).It came with the stroker plate but I dont know what it is for sure. It also has the"29L" on the rods but there is no numbers forged into the crank,but there is a P.C. in ink printed on it in the same spot the "29L" is on the other one.The third one is in the 89' I just bought and I hope its what I think it is(It is also a new crank). It has Made in Japan on one side of the rods and VESRAH-2008-9 on the other side and on the crank it has H.R on one counterweight and 7312 on another(could it be a hotrods crank).I can figure rod length and stroke myself,I just want to know what brand they may be because I am not familiar with the identifying marks on a stock crank.Thank you.

It doesnt just look cooler, It will run a little cooler too.

Thats kind of what I thought. I dont know of any atv or motorcycle dynos around here, Its all car stuff. Thanks.

Ok, I got a Dyna cdi for a 87-94 banshee that I was going to put on my 89 but now I want to put it on the 03. Is it possible to wire up an adapter from an old wiring harness to make this work? Is it worth $90 for the programming kit to dial in the ignition curves if I'm not going to be doing any serious racing, are the pre programed curves good enough?(I dont ever want to run lean again but I dont want to just dump more fuel to it if the real problem is too much advance at high rpm's)

CRC electrical parts cleaner is the best I've used. A small soft wire brush (brass) or a little emery cloth is ok but dont get too rough with it.

I agree, I was never big into chrome.

Im in northwest Iowa so it would take a little planning and with school and everything I'll probably have to wait but when I do go it would be great to hook up with some of you guys.