docjcwatson

Chase is a good dude from what I hear. I'm sitting here thinking to myself when the last time I saw him was, and it was about a month ago. I hope he makes it right.

Sounds like you might want to look into a set of sand play tires. Like the Sand Skate II's. They are a paddle tire that doesn't balloon like the haulers or extremes. Which are not for turning and doing donuts. Straight paddle tires are made for drag racing apps only. You would benefit from a set of "V-Style" paddles. Keep the knobby fronts for now. I have a feeling that once you ride sand, you will be back for more. In a short amount of time I might add. Soooo, at that time, pick up a set of fronts. Since you are a mostly just playing around. Get a front tire with a "Mohawk" design. Allows for easier and more precise turning.

Beau said it already. You can see a "Half moon" shaped white plastic piece that is right behind the basket. Two screws to take it off. Then take a rubber mallet and smack the bottom case sideways. Might take a couple of times, but it will come apart. You do not need new seals. If you replaced you're seals everytime you tear you're motor apart, you will have more money in seals than you would performance parts.

Stellar Machine and Performance. Tim makes great products. I have some suspension components that he is hooking up for me right now. You can get any of his products through Andy at M&M ATV. Andy is also a great guy to work with. http://www.mmatvonline.com

Your motor will probably not make it till next year. When your motor doesn't shift because you're getting to much power to the ground, the RPM's will still be rising and you'll still be screwing around with your clutch and shifter trying to make it shift. Then BOOM. I had a +8 on my 14mil. It was cool.

Heh. I have a feeling that you are going down for this idea. I could be wrong. Why would you put that much fab work into a Blaster based Banshee? Especially if she don't ride.

Enough said.

Damn! He doesn't have the kind that I want on there.

:woot:

Ummmm. You joined yesterday?

You're not getting it. It cost less than $30 to make. Thanks for the compliments fellas. I owe this to the BHQ. I learned how to build this from the Chat on this website. Just goes to show how much some people can learn from this website.

There can be no way that the clutch was adjusted properly if you have gone through plates that quick. I welded the ball once. The clutch itself was fine.

Oh!!!!! Well then in that case. The answer is still no. I didn't have the freeze plugs in right and the gauge quickly let me know that. :biggrin:

Why would it leak? I did nothing to make the button leak. I didn't tamper with it at all. Still has all the original seals.

Button still works fine. Jamey. I apologize for a repost then bro. I had searched with no prevail.

Looks like this now. Done with the leakdown tester!!! Now for the process. Put the expandable freeze plugs in the exhaust outlets and tighten them down!! This is very important. They should be air tight! Take your pipes and put them into the intakes. NOTE: I used some more sealant where the caps stop on the pipe. Not necessary. Hook up your tire inflator. Inflate to 6PSI only! I use an electric tire inflator made by Bell to keep pumping air in, so that I can find leaks. If your motor does not hold the air. Take a spray bottle of warm soapy water, re-inflate to 6PSI and spray around different parts of your motor to find the leak. Hope this helps you. Most of this info came from my buddies off this site. Chad, Austin, Dave and Shayne. Thanks a lot for all your guys' help. If anybody sees anything wrong with this info, let me know ASAP! So I can get it right!

Now onto the second one. Take your valve stem and take it apart. Should look like this. Now, take the other pipe with cap and drill it the same way that you did the first one. With a bit that is slightly smaller than the valve stem threads. Should look like this. Test fit. Screw the valve stem in the opposite way, so that you know the hole is not too big for the stem. Take the stem out and prime and cement the hole. Now, slide the valve stem into place on the inside of the pipe. Screw it into place. Do not get cement on the top or bottom of the vavle stem. Then all you have to do is, screw the washer and nut back on the top of the stem. NOTE: If you can fit the other black bushing on top of the cap around the valve stem, I strongly suggest you do. It will only help. Not totally necessary though. Looks like this when you look inside the pipe. This is what they look like thus far. Use a little bit of sealant on the holes we drilled.

Set the two pieces of PVC pipe on a flat surface. Pick a side that you want to have the caps on. Use the purple primer out of the Handy pack to prime the ends of the pipe. The brush is inside the can of primer. Might be hard to open the first time. No big deal. Do the inside of the caps also. Then apply some cement the same way. Be careful with the cement. You do not need a lot. When you are done with applying the cement on the outside of the pipe and on the inside of the caps. You should put the caps on top of the pipe pieces. Press down as hard as you can to make sure to get the best seal on the cement. Ok. The tire gauge that I bought needs a little modification. So, we are going to open it up and look at the bottom. The little brass flat head screw in there needs to be loosened and removed. When you loosen that screw, you'll notice that the outside came undone too. Unscrew the whole thing. Including the outside cap. Should look like this when completed. Now that is all taken care of. We can move onto the drilling. You are going to have to find a drill bit that is small enough for the end of the tire gauge. Then you are going to drill the end of one of the caps with this bit. Should look like this. Test fit. The end of tire gauge should now have a threaded end on it. You do not want to go so big that you can not thread it in to place in the cap. Take the tire gauge back out. Prime and cement the hole. Now take the tire gauge and screw it into permanent place. Make sure no cement gets on the inside of the pressure gauge. Done with one!

This is a "How-To" on making your own leakdown tester. This is going to explain step by step exactly what you need to do in order to make a homemade leakdown tester. First. You will need to measure the inner-diameter of your intake. This is the size of PVC pipe that you will need to buy. Get as close to the actual size as you can. Without going over. Second. You will need to measure your exhaust outlets inner-diameter to find out what size freeze plugs you will need. Same thing. Get as close to the size that you need as possible without going over. NOTE: You will need to get the size that goes up to the size that you need. For example; if you have an ID that equals 1 3/4". You will need to get the size that is 1 5/8" to 1 3/4". The one that is 1 3/4" and bigger. Is going to be too large for you. Then you will need to go out and get all the supplies. All of these parts should be fairly easy to come by. Expandable freeze plugs. Purchased at Advanced Auto Parts. 1 1/2" PVC Schedule 40 pipe. Purchased at Lowes. Two 1 1/2" PVC Schedule 40 caps. Tire pressure gauge. NOTE: Needs to be easily readable at 6PSI. Purchased at Advanced Auto Parts. Metal Tubeless valve stems. NOTE: The ones that have a nut are easier to get tighter. Purchased at Advanced Auto Parts. Handy Pack of PVC cement, too include primer and cement. Purchased at Lowes. Now. On to the fun. Measure out about 3 inches of PVC pipe. Mark to make a cut. Then cut it. Doesn't have to be perfect either. Now. Measure another 3" section out. And cut that also. Still doesn't need to be perfect. Should have two now.

I dunno Shayne. I need to get up there. I do not know when it's going to happen though. Maybe by late summer I will have a bike together.

This isn't mine. Fairly close to me though if somebody needed me to check it out for them. Cheapest way to get into drag racing right here! http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/mcy/1037108655.html

We figured you fell off the face of the earth.

Awwww. Uh oh. I didn't know Rico had stepped up his game to a big boy chassis! End of last year. I also have stepped up to a big boy chassis this year. :biggrin: I will post those when I get to it.

Hey guys. I'm ok with a little used. So I would like to save some cash if possible. Looking for a 16" eye to eye Marvin Shaw rear Comp. Let me know.

With a pretty good looking bike too! Atleast he's not too old to forget where to spend some cash!