Wildcardracing

Why not send those out for conversion? I can do them and have them on their way back in a couple of days for $120 plus shipping. -Brandon

We've considered heading out for one of these, just been rare that the weekend will work with our scedule. I've heard that some were dead and others were great. -Brandon

I sell the clippard style for $35 each single feed or dual feed for $45 -Brandon

We have welded and/or epoxied several sets on the outer transfer areas for large motors. I like the Devcon aluminum putty and aluminum liquid epoxies for this.

we have ultralight caliper mounting brackets. Maybe I could modify our program to accept a yfz or 250r caliper ect for those who want a dual piston caliper. -Brandon

Looks like I can still get the rear fender for $250 new, the side covers for $25 each and the radiator shroud for $95, but the front isn't available through the OEM anymore. Looks like I can get the Maier front in white for $210. Let me know if I can help. -Brandon

I can get them if they're still available...but I'd bet they've been discontinued, I'll have to look into it

You've allready answered your own question. A good guage will have a thread the same length as the plug and will have the schrader valve in the very end. This will duplicate actual (as running) chamber volume the best and give you the most accurate readings. Other factors are the guage itself may be of a better or lesser quality and therefore read differently. But, the compression test is only to determine/monitor the engines internal condition and should be used only for that purpose. Record your results and always use the same guage to do future compression tests. -Brandon

Those are Trinity Wiseco's, they have a banshee pin height and crown in bb size. They are @$170 each and used for short rods. How is your Nikasil in your bore? -Brandon

Congrats!

I can set up stock cylinders for whatever riding application you prefer. The longer crank stroke will give the engine a more broad torque curve and added displacement. +4mm stroke is the largest you can go without case modifications, +7 is the largest you can go without re-sleeving the cylinders. As for your questions on the cub cylinders: They are capable of producing more hp than stock cylinders, but are more expensive as well. I would suggest you decide what your budget is and look towards a Serval or ported stock cylinder setup based on the riding you described. The Serval could later be ported to cub specs or somewhere in between. -Brandon

gear ratio is gear ratio wheather you achieve the ratio you want with a small front/small rear or large front/larger rear combination doesn't matter for the performance. The chain will appreciate you running a larger front sprocket to achieve your desired gear ratio. -Brandon

The problem found is when you run the tz on the pto side without straight cuts. TZ beaings are a roller type bearing and therefore have no resistance to side loading. Your stock helical cut gears side load the crank when you're on the throtte. This can/will exert more force on the rod pin area as the crank is loaded. My recommendation is to run the 10 ball Maxloads with stock gears or a TZ on the stator side not the PTO side. -Brandon

The RB 0610 with a 5* angle work with a lot of pipes quite well.

The Cascade, modquad and UPP ones will all work great. I can get any of them in a variety of colors. My link -Brandon

If you don't have any luck finding used ones, I have both in stock in chrome and CPI in bare also. Shearer $635 chrome, CPI $640 chrome. -Brandon

If you have access to a flywheel puller, pull the flywheel and shake it see if it rattles. Broken flywheel magnets can/will cause misfiring at certain rpms

Can't say I blame you there. As Jared said earlier, the shifting is hard to bench test. Very rare to have an issue with the gears or drums, but not impossible. Post pictures of the parts if/when you can.

I have one here that's not going to be used. How does $10 + shipping sound, to cover my time digging it out and boxing it up? PM me if you're interested -Brandon

Too tight of squish (this will depend on your setup and fuel) will lead to detonation. Too loose of squish will leave power on the table, but won't harm the engine. Squish won't affect your compression, but compression ratio will affect your squish velocity and both of these factors need to be taken into account to determine fuel requirements for your engine. Also squish angle, divergent (squish clearance gets wider toward the center of the bore) is optimal on most engines. Convergent (squish clearance gets tighter toward center of bore) is never a good situation. -Brandon

Bent fork?? Are the ends of any of the shift forks discolored (blue-gold), they should be a nice silver color and should be smooth to the touch all around. If they are jagged or discolored they are likely bent. Issues usually aren't in the gears or drum.

I can get you a new OEM CDI box, price depends on year. Let me know and I can get you pricing. As for the aftermarket ones, as said above...you are best to stay with the factory equipment -Brandon

There are a lot of variables to take into consideration here. I have used them some. Dennis Packard would be the expert IMO on running these on ATV's. I would use his PE-1 metering rods. The base setting is 48.5mm from the brass to the tip of the rod, your elevation will determine where you will go from there to tune. Start with the power jets Wide open. And, if the original lectron PJ's are in them I would replace them with some clippard PJ's. There are a few different styles of the clippards, the single feeds are what I would recommend for that motor but will have to be drilled/machined out to get you enough flow for methanol. PM me if you need any more help or have any questions. -Brandon

Bump for a great deal! For anyone looking, these cases sell for $1900 without the shift fork window

Welcome to the HQ!