Wildcardracing

I have the cushions in stock and ready to ship. $22 per set. -Brandon

For most racing applications it has been my experience that torque wins the race. Torque=acceleration. Peak hp #'s look great on a dyno and are cool to talk about but that's all they really are.....numbers. -Brandon

We sell the Nology Pro-Fire with Hotwires for $188.95. OEM coil is $150.49 with wires. As for the CDI box, Stator and flywheel just stick with the OEM stuff. The ricky stator and Dynatech parts have been very prone to failure. -Brandon

Anthony, you should really consider coming up this way for Memorial weekend. We should have a pretty good size crew out. -Brandon

Rudy cuts a great transmission. M1st means it still has first gear but only 2-5 are over-ride. You will have to use the clutch to shift from 1st to 2nd. 1st is there just for moving the bike around the pit or to the hill ect. When you race it you'll gear to launch in 2nd though 5th gear

You sir sure have posted a lot of threads and in a lot of threads on a forum you have so much contempt for. Reading in many of your threads I think you have gotten a lot of usefull answers and help. But what do I know?

Wow! All I can say is I've always had good dealings with Andy. A business move is always hectic.

an easier formula for displacement is bore x bore x stroke x .0007854 x number of cylinders That being said see if the seller will tell you what type of cylinder it is. What the bore is and what the stroke is. Stock banshee is 64mm bore 54mm stroke x2 cylinders for 347cc. Pics would help us to possibly tell you what type of cylinder it is. -Brandon

Seen issues with some of the CDI boxes around the same year as your machine. Yamaha released a few that had an advanced timing curve

I had heard he was only doing occasional transmission work.

I'll post my credentials, for what purpose is still unclear. But, you asked and I have nothing to hide. My reputation, work and customer service typically sells itself. I'm posting in this thread to help you and others out, not to sell myself. As I've seen on your posts in Blaster forum, I allready know I don't have your business. I have been in the industry as a proffessional technician since 1999. I have worked for yamaha, kawasaki, suzuki, honda, polaris, and arctic cat dealerships in Utah and Idaho. I went to Idaho State University school of applied technology to learn machining. I've been to K-Tech training and Polaris update training in or around 2001. Wildcard racing has been around since 2005 but has only been a legitimate registered business since 2009. As far as portwork and modifications go, I started out building only my own atv's and close friends. Wildcard becoming a business was never really in the plans untill others started asking me to do their bikes. I do offer 2 and 4 stroke portwork and engine buiiding services on all of the popular makes/models as well as repair services and parts. I couldn't begin to estimate how many banshee's I've built or worked on over the years to be honest. While I won't say I specialize in banshees, they are the majority of my business and my favorite atv. Since I know you spend a lot of time on blaster forum I'll add that I was once a site sponsor and have been a technician on there since 2009...well untill two days ago. If you want to browse my websites they are www.wildcardracingatv.com and www.wildcardracingandperformance.com -Brandon

If they are 65mm pistons they should measure @64.85mm front to rear below the rings and 64.75 side to side below the rings. We have gotten Wiseco's with all kinds of different sizings and even some obvious mis-stampings in the past. If you're measuring above or at the rings you will be @64.5. Hope this helps. -Brandon

I charge $280 for my aggressive trail port. Matched to your pipes, elevation, fuel and rider weight. Don't know what others prices are -Brandon

RK and DID are both good chains. X-Ring or o-ring will both have good reliability characteristics. The x-ring is supposed to have less drag. 104 links is the stock chain length.

If I were doing the build, given the information provided I would be recommending an aggressive trail port. It will show no noticeable loss right off idle and will boast most of it's increase throughout the midrange with a slight bump in the top end. I really don't think you'd have gotten the athena put together with porting for much if any less than a 4mil stock cylinder would cost. But, I'm not sure what is included in the "kit" you were looing at or what you had been quoted for portwork ect. -Brandon

I agree about the cylinder pressure comment, people do in fact get too caught up over cranking psi. Cranking psi is more of a way to monitor the condition of your engine. However, the last porting of your post I have to dissagree with. 19cc domes are much to small for his engine to survive happily on pump gas at sea level.

My trail porting is focussed on gains in the low-mid range. The aggressive trail and dune ports are focussed on midrange increase. Other builders will have different terminologies for these builds. My honest recommendation based on your weight and described riding would be a 4mil setup with a nice mild dune port. You can have a decent bike in both settings. Builders will all have different approaches and abilities to create an engine to suit your style. Where are you located? -Brandon

I would say a trail or aggressive trail type port depending on your rider weight and fuel you intend to run. But, these are the things that really are going to need to be discussed with the builder you choose to do the work whoever that may be. I would be more than happy to provide you a list of builders I would personally recommend. -Brandon

The JJH needles are the most popular needles we sell for those carbs. Problem is going to be finding many or any people with the same or even similar setup to yours to comment on this. Someone running a 4mil stock cylinder setup with an aggressive trail or dune port should have very similar jetting. I'd try the JJH to begin with and go from there. -Brandon

First of all, yes the cc of the dome includes the squish area as all of this is calculated into your compression ratio. Only exception being stroker domes where the piston will take up some of this volume at tdc. As for your comp test, 162/165 tells me the engine is still healthy in both cylinders. I would have recommended doing an other leak down test before teardown when you had problems as it may have shown your cooling system leak which has been discussed in your piston pics thread. However the cooling system may only leak at much higher preasures than the leakdown test. As I stated in the other thread do a cooling system pressure test after it goes back together. As for your questions on squish, here is the best quick explanation I can give. MSV=maximum squish velocity, all fuels have a safe MSV range they can be used in. MSV, trapped compression ratio and uncorrected compression raio (UCCR) are all used in determining the appropriate fuel for a given engine. The use of the engine will dictate dome design. All three of these variable affect each other as do other engine parameters. Decreasing squish clearance, tightening the squish angle (which should always remain divergent=open up toward the center of the bore), decreasing trapped compression ratio (bigger dome or higher exhaust port) or widening the squish band width will all increase your MSV. Opposite changes will decrease your MSV. Shelf domes (PD, Noss ect.) are typically designed with a conservative MSV when used with an engine with stock ports and appropriate octane fuel. Custom domes could be anywhere in the spectrum depending on what the builder was trying to accomplish. As for your fuel choice, you can either mix 93/110 50% of each or buy the 101 whichever is most economical. Just be aware that oxygenated fuels while having good power potential will affect the jetting of your bike. Which BTW is very rich by the looks of your plugs. -Brandon

As the others have stated, that side is washed. I would very carefully inspect the cylinders for flatness with a straight edge and make sure there are no nicks or gouges in the o-ring sealing surfaces. Also look for any debris or foreign material that may be keeping the head from sealing down tight. How did your domes and dome o-rings look? If the dome o-rings are burnt looking it is likely from mild detonation due to the high compression you're running on 93 octane. After you are able to get this back together do a cooling system pressure test at 16-20 psi as well as a leakdown test. I would imagine it was pushing fluid from the radiator overflow as a combustion leak will generally allways preasurize the cooling system. -Brandon

Chip, When doing a compression test, you should test the engine with the throttle wide open and kick untill the needle stops moving. I usually do this test warm with both plugs removed. Warm or cold doesn't really matter too much just as long as the test variable are the same for subsequent tests. Yamaha's 6.5:1 ratio is the trapped ratio figured using the volume above the exhaust port. I agree that you likely have 20cc domes in there and would recommend 100 octane for that ratio. I would recommend switching out to 22cc domes to be safe on the 93 octane you run. -Brandon

That would work. The Wampus is basically a cheetah cub wrapped in a stock looking package. No, you won't need a spacer plate. The CP cylinders are cast for the intended stroke -Brandon

I agree that I may not have handled myself in the most proffessional manner in this thread, no arguement there. And for anyone whom I may have offended I apologize. However, I would like to ask when you've seen me bash on any other builders on here. Many can vouch for the fact that is not generally my style at all. In fact if asked I have many builders that I will recommend to others, this too I'm sure can be vouched for by members on here. My comments although my opinion only were a product of actual events that have transpired over the past two years. I should have used different wording indeed. But, the volume of E-mails, calls and PM's from this other builders customers asking me what pipes, jetting, fuel ect. they need to get their motors running right have left me with a serious distaste for his business ethics. I meant everything I said, and it was based on fact that the consumers should know. I just should have used different wording. And no, work has not been slow. I have continued to have a backlog of engine work and even turned work away this year. This too can be vouched for by members here. -Brandon

Your carbs are slightly on the small side for the 14mil