Wildcardracing

I don't know how much the Haulers weigh, but I just bought a set of 21x12x8 8pdl extreams on .125's and they weigh @11lbs each on the wheel

27.5mm is the limit that the stock carbs can be bored to, it would cost @ $90 to have them taper-bored which in my opinion is more sensible than spendin $250+ on 28's. I have decidecd to go with the 32mm mikuni TM's because they are the same body as the 34's and can be bored to 35.5 if I ever wanted larger carbs and they are a little less than the PWK's. Flatslides do have a noticeable power increase over the older style (stock) round slide carbs because they don't restrict the air as much

Sorry, messed up on my size. They are 22x11x10 8 paddle rippers. I don't really want a 10" wheel, they are all yours. Look in the closeout tire section on rockymountainatv.com

Found a set of 21x12x8 8 paddle rippers for $119 new, my mods are in my sig. I'm afraid they will be way too much paddle for my motor. What do you think?

You guys ever go out during the winter? If you do PM me when ur going, I live about 30 min from LS just south of Nephi.

I agree, you will probably want to go to 33's or so in the future anyways, Might as well get them now while youre in the market for some carbs.

here's a link to where I got that information: Banshee Jetting FAQ www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Looks like most of his info came from BansheeHQ, I did this to my bike, maybe it's in my head but I could feel a bit more response.

I probably would spend the money on porting also. Bigger carbs will give you a gain up top, but will take away from your bottom end. Once you have it ported go with flatslides no bigger than 33's unless you are building it for drags or for the dunes. 35's are about as big as I would go on a 350 and that's only if you like all of your power on top.

My mods are in my sig, I'm running 14/40 with 22's and I love it. I like having a little more leg between gears but not too much top end (where can u actually get to 80 mph). I think 15/41 is a bit high for me.

One of my personal favorites! lmao

Make sure you adjust them evenly, and that your carbs are in sync. They need to be opened evenly at idle and begin raise at the same time when you push the throttle.

I've been told the TM's are more tuneable and the carb body doesn't have to be modified to run alky, so you can go back to gas if you want because of the Mikuni needle jet. ANY OPINIONS????

You will want to flip them over if there is a gap between the tip of the petal and the cage

I understand what your saying, and I also have a very good understanding of 2-stroke oil for pre-mix(ing) and injector oil. Sometimes on here we may need to be careful of our wording as not to lead less informed readers astray. You could have people walking around in the dark looking for "piston return springs" or "blinker fluid" or "various colors of power-bands" lol.

sometime in the mid ninetys yamaha started hooking the coil wires up backward, DON'T KNOW WHY. But it increases your spark energy a little, You may have to go up one jet size. Did this to my bike, didn't have to rejet but did notice a little better throttle response.

If you only want a small increase in carb size (probably to retain some bottom end), I would recommend that you save some money and have your stockers taper bored to 27.5's. It'll cost about $90. I don't think the flatslides performance warrant the price only going up 2mm. Lynn at L.C. Performance does a good job boring the stockers out his # is (801)423-1382 give him a call, he'll take good care of you.

Next time you're afraid it will rust, just us a syringe to apply a FEW drops of 2-stroke oil to the bearings.

You should try to run the lowest octane fuel you can get away with. It makes more power and as an added bonus it is easier on the wallet. 160 psi of cold cranking compression is where I would seriously consider 100 octane, 140 to 150 psi 50/50 with 91, below 140 psi premium pump gas.

Pod Filters $40 - $70 Timing plate $35 Lighten Flyweel $50 Taper Bore Carbs $90 Shift star Mod $20 Mill Stock head $90 (includes re-chambering) Eliminate T.O.R.S. $60 Hook orange wire to pos side and black to neg side of coil...FREE

You don't buy premix. You have to buy 2-stroke oil and mix it with pump-gas, race-fuel, or alcohol depending on how modified your shee is. As for a specific year, I bought an 06 new and if I had it to do over I would have found an older well cared for one that was cheaper and already had all of the go-fast goodies. But modin your own shee is half the fun. Expensive though.

Try rotating the jug, this may free up the siezed S.O.B. why is it always the left cylinder, what a mess!

Do a search for quadcustoms in Holiday, UT. They do nice work and have several styles of swingarms in any length to suit your needs. Their chromoly round tube swinger w/round carrier included is under $300 bare.

You don't want them straight up and down anyways. Negative Camber (top of wheel leans inward) is a good thing. this creates better stabability. Too much camber is a bad thing though. If you don't believe me, look at the suspension setup on the YFZ 450, sad as I am to say it is way more state of the art than our beloved shees. I'm not 100% sure, but I think your caber should be around 5 deg.

Don't forget to rejet!!! More air needs more fuel.

Had to be the hardest one to get to, didn't it!!! If youre real careful not to hit the jug, you might be able to cut the nut off from the top down with a dremmel. Have you already tried vice-grips? You will have to replace the stud if you cut it off. They both should be available from your local yamaha dealer.