Wildcardracing

I've got a set of 39's in the for sale section. They are in great condition. I would be willing to work out a swap with you and convert them to atv specs (they're off a sled) LMK

TTT

Bump!

BUMP :biggrin: Prices are OBO

They are both easily adjusted and both work very well. The direct drive will run you a little more money because of the need for a cover or cover mod. Really it comes down to what look you want the most. If you want to just retain the stock cover go with the slingshot. Ultimately the DD is a little easier to fine tune because you don't have to pull the entire clutch cover, but I've seen guys run the slingshot behind a modified cover as well. Gigot now offers them anodized for those whow want to run a modded cover and want colors.

I've got a nice G-Force adjustable axle in the for sale section. Willing to work on the price. Hit me up if interested.

Well, yes if that's the "only" problem then you will be running 100% when you get the leaks sealed up. But, I would suspect you'll have some further fine tuning to do as well.

The part nuber is usually stamped right accross the middle of the crown. Give us all of the numbers and we can tell you what size they are.

Shipped prices are for lower 48 states, shipping is also available elsewhere for additional charge. Thanks for looking

Reminants of spring clean up. I have: Very lightly used G-Force adjustable axle, splines and finish are in excellent condition. 35mm, Includes spacers for: Banshee, Blaster, Warrior, Raptor 660 and 04-05 YFZ. $170 shipped. Set of used Pro-Design 20cc domes, used for heat cycles only...no pitting. $50 shipped Set of PWK 39 snomo carbs, no needles....$200 shipped All prices are OBO.....

Your domes cc and chamber design will depend on your porting, elevation and what fuel you intend to run

I can vouch for this kid...buy with confidence, Chris is a good seller.

You can also look to timing advance or increased compression to bring some low end to it if they haven't allready been done. Depending on the portwork, switching pipes may not help a lot. You might want to find if someone local has a set of T-5's for you to try before you trade out of your CPI's. I've been very successful getting an extremely smooth/broad midrange power band with CPI inframes, so I would tend to think the majority of the issue is in the porting. It may be more drag orientated. Too much blowdown timing and/or lack of transfer time area compared to exhaust time area and the motor will be peaky no matter what. **EDIT** The pipes in your pic are small bore from what I can tell

The plug caps have a screw like contact inside that simply screws into the end of the wire. Clip your old caps off to give yourself a good tight bite with the new caps, just be carefull not to cut them too short.

Tig with no rod. If you use mig or add rod with the tig it will add metal and create a balance issue.

Dave, at our elevation those 19cc domes won't yeild enough compression to require 111 octane. I run 19's and have even run 18's on my pump gas duner, the 18's were pushing it a bit. It is a stock stroke right? If it's a 4mill then the 19's would need at least 100 octane.

On a stock port I'd recommend 21cc domes for your elevation and pump gas. The lower the cc of the domes the higher the compression

We would need to know your elevation, air temp and fuel you plan to run to recommend jetting and domes. As for your question on the reeds, stock ported cages with some good carbon reeds work very well. The V-Force are also a very good cage, haven't messed with the boyesens personally so can't help you there.

Swingarm pic Just as the title says, very nice swingarm. Comes with a bare finish carrier (not pictured). Not sure of the brand, I'm listing this for a friend. If you want any more pics please send me a pm with your e-mail address. Thanks, Brandon

Goes to prove that ignorance isn't always bliss lol.

He's at @ 5000' here in Utah or in St Anthony, ID. 340's would be way to big for any porting matched to those pipes at our elevation. We typcically don't see over 340's on any setup with stock carbs even when it gets colder. Dave, I would like to know your exact setup to help you out better. What fuel is it set up for? What domes are you running? What is your spark plug gap and what plugs are you running? If you are setup with high compression and on race fuel you may have to decrease your plug gap to around .020-.025". Who did the portwork and what was the porting type supposed to be? What are your intake tract mods (filters, reeds, spacers)? -Brandon

I have seen several failures where people have used RTV on their cases, leak down tests are standard before any teardowns in my shop and I've yet to see a set of RTV cases that were sealed when they came to me. I use threebond 1194 which is the replacement for the 1104, it runs about $10 per tube...pretty cheap insurance if you ask me.

It can still be rebuilt and/or trued again, the welding just complicates it a little because the weld has to be machined out. You can get a degree wheel for about $20 through motion pro that will work. You just need to find true tdc of both pistons and make sure they are exactly 180* of each other. Also a good idea to put a dial indicator on the flywheel side of the crank and make sure it is turning true. Any builder would be able to do this for you. The flywheel makes a pretty good knock if it comes loose from the taper, I'd check it just to be sure since you said that the bearings/rods all felt very tight and smooth.

I wouldn't hightly recommend having the stock head milled without addressing the chambers. If you go too far your squish will be too tight reguardless of compression numbers and will lead to detonation. I can get as small as 19cc chambers out of the oem head with a mill/rechamber job. How small you will want to go will all depend on your elevation. I saw your other post mentioning porting, that would be the ideal time to have the headwork done to match the new portwork. -Brandon

It's really a gamble at best. I've seen nonwelded cranks hold some pretty good power for a long time and I've also seen piped only shee's slip the webs. My recommendation is and always will be to weld it, besides if you're going to drop the coin on porting it might not be a bad idea to split the cases and check the condition of all of your bearings and replace the seals. Like said above, it is cheap insurance against a very costly repair down the road. I've seen cranks let go and take out every part of the engine head/cylinders/cases/transmissions ect. Your choice.