Wildcardracing

The recommended base gasket as per CP for the longrod 421 is .020-.022 it should measure approximately 4.158" base to deck. Most I have worked with come up with around +.015 deck with a .020 (stock) base gasket thickness. So you will end up with about .007 deck height with a .012 gasket. Some will depend on gasket variances, some will squish more than others when torqued. Blaster pistons have a .105 dome rise, you can use a piston stop and dial indicator to calculate the exact deck height. A piece of strap with two holes drilled and bolted on your studs will work for a piston stop. hope that helps.

I can personally vouch for this seller, great guy to deal with. Good luck with the sale Erwin!

You have got some reading to do. I recommend you find a PDF copy of Gordon Jennings and A. Grahm Bells books on two stroke tuning and read them both a couple of times before you even begin to gind. As far as your question on polishing, it will yeild no gain and can acctually hurt performance on the intake and transfers because it will slow the charge vs a port with a consistent texture. I polish the exhaust side only to prevent carbon deposits from building. Read up untill you have a good grasp on the work at hand.

We're looking to plan a ride the end of June, will have to try and make it out with us. -Brandon

The Noss heads use the stock studs and the quality is top notch as well as the customer service!

Check with Bigred350x he had a set for sale a while ago that were already set up. You could also have yours set up for alky if you want.

Piston part numbers would be the fastest and easiest route. But, if you can't get that then you can either measure the rods from pin center to pin center or get a measurement from the top of the piston pin bore to the edge of the piston crown. -Brandon

I looked through my parts tonight and I have two of the Q-0's in stock if you need.

I can get you any size of the 389 series needle jets for $14 each, let me know if I need to put some Q0's in my next order. They retail for around $16 each. -Brandon

Also....It is more likely that your slide is a 4.0, that is the only slide available for those carbs these days and should work fine with your application.

A 389 Q0 needle jet would be the next leaner....010" smaller bore. If you do install one you will want to start tuning with the needle in the 4th or 5th clip position. Where are you at on your pilot air screw adjustment? You may still be rich on the pilot circuit affecting the other jetting circuits. Those carbs came with a vm22/210 #50 pilot from Mikuni, what size is in there now? -Brandon

The TM 32-34 are different than the 28's, if you try to use a 175 series needle jet it won't work. The 34's come with a 5FP-17 needle and 389 Q2 needle jet out of the box. Those settings should be close. Probably end up with the needle on the 4th or 5th clip.

I really wouldn't recommend the Vitos cast cranks or the forged cranks for a stroke that large, they are just prone to failure IMO. I can do you a nice billet Crankworks 10mil with 115 rods for $1095, I can do a TZ upgrade for an additional $70. Longer rods will be a $100 option. Crank comes with maxload bearing, I only recommend the TZ on the PTO side if you are running straight cut gears. As for your cub cylinder question, they are cast for the stroke and can't be used with a longer stroke. You'll have to upgrade to a cylinder arrangement set up for the 64mm stroke. -Brandon

Unfortunately I'm not going to make it out this year Tore my dunerup pretty bad in glamis this past weekend and don't have time to get it back together befor easter.

I highly recommend billet if you're considering a 10 mil build. I really don't know of anyone re-stroking the smaller cranks that large anymore with the aftermarket availability, but I won't put words in Crankworks mouth and say they won't. Secondly the stock cylinders require a lot of work to set up for a 64 stroke, a 61 is much easier to fit. The reason the stock cylinders don't support the larger bores is due to the crowded transfer arrangement which is better dealt with on the monoblock designs. The inner transfer ports are really the problem area of the OEM cylinders as it is without crowding a lager sleeve in to complicate matters.

Just wanted to let everyone know that we are back at it and avaialable again. And Glamis was a blast! -Brandon

Don't forget to put some kind of float stop in them so the needle/seat doesn't get stuck wide open. Big factor on billet bowls for people who dune/hill race. I like the other ideas to...good luck lol.

Took a quick glance at you photobucket page. No idea who MS is and didn't notice the filler you were asking about. I suspect they used an epoxy to smooth the floor transition to the cylinder sleeve on the intake? I would be leary of doing this for fear the epoxy might come loose. The work looks to be fairly clean. However, the exhaust port looks quite wide for the application you were told they were for based on what I could see in the pics. But depending on intended pipes and target RPM peak you need to factor port area as a consideration. Make yourself a wire jig that fits snug accross the widest portion of the exhaust and measure it to get port width. Then get measurements of the cylinder from base to deck to see if they have been decked at all(not including the sleeve protrusion at the bottom). Then measure from the deck down to the roof of the exhaust and the roof of the transfers. Get back to me with these measurements and I can give you a better idea of what to expect. It's very hard to tell much besides port shapes and how clean the work is from pictures. Measurements would be needed. As for the piston size 1.0mm would be .040 over (65mm bore). -Brandon

I'm not saying you don't have a jetting issue, but I think the root of your problem sounds like carb sync. Also check that you have a good connection between you spark plugs and plug caps. You can switch the plug wires and see if the problem moves to the other cylinder to rule out electrical issues.

"stock sucks" Couldn't aggree more Bob! lol Looks good. Now if your damn engine builder would get off his ass and get your motor done so you can get it all back together!

Bump for a stout 10mil!

I've got three different chassis companies who fab j-arms in just about any configuration you might want. I'm sure they could also accomodate the yfz shocks you want to run. -Brandon

As mentioned earlier, muratic acid will remove the aluminum deposits. Best to have the bores checked with a bore guage though. As far as you question on performance, they can run very well with some work. As cast they are ok but they will take more work than a cub to get big numbers from. -Brandon

There are two ways to do up a ten mill stock cylinder. Most common is to use spacer plates and as blowit said they throw the port timing way off from ideal. The preferred method is to resleeve with taller sleeves and clearance the head/domes. You'll be cheaper in the long run to build a 10mil cub than a stock cylinder in that stroke. I recommend just doing a 7mil stroker stock cylinder vs the 10, they can be fit in the stock sleeves without a plate (use thicker fiber base gaskets) and will have decent transfer port timings for aggressive dune or drag type setups. The 7mil won't have a huge peak power difference from the 10 but will show a little less power below the curve. Power output will all depend on port type and supporting modifications. -Brandon

I agree with Jeff, a set of dune ported 4mil stockers is going to be the best bet for your riding style and wallet. People post up good deals on low bore non ported cylinders all of the time, or any of us builders can supply a set. For roughly the same price as just the cub block you could have a fresh ported stock cylinder setup with pistons ready to install. The cubs have a very "peaky" power delivery and are more suited to a drag type engine. The stock cylinders can be tailored to give you just about any power delivery much easier. -Brandon