inthemail

jackass.... fly HIS way and beat his ass. take $60 of your time plus airfare back with you too while your there hahah

is it still a banshee basket??? if you got a couple bucks why not get yourself a billet basket (since your gonna be basically doing the grunt work of installing one anyway) bolts may have to be countersunk for clearance im not sure.

id say removing your front end and starting fresh is the best idea. get yourself a dewb rolled and a comfy stool. :geek: i wish i had extended arms

TM. Years in the buisness of savin' cases :cool: BTW that is a nice case saver.... is it a new design from em? stay away from the billet ones, your right plastic gives which is what it should do in the case of the case

werd keep it comin guys haha this topic is getting scary! do the ones who smoke entire internals usually just do so by being too greedy breaking in? or is it just all in the setup trying to get it jetted. i personally believe any 2 stroke can last forever if broke in right. does this go for meth? or is it just trial with most likely error. i know plug chopping is essential to proper jetting but how close to you have to guess your baseline before trying without a blowup?

heres the email i just got this morning On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 5:46 PM, <[email protected]> wrote: i took your canadian money rder to my bank today and they won't cash it without charging me a processing fee which was 20 dollars so i need you to call with a credit card number or pay through paypal at [email protected] 717 582 7250 what the fuck is that, first the guy rapes me on the shipping ($40 for a goddamn flywhee puller) and then has the nerve to say he wants more money to cash my money order? its in american funds and the auction said money order is accepted. what should i do? anyone got a puller i can fucking BORROW? ill pay shipping both ways and need it for about a week.

the kit is really simple to install anyone on the boards would be able to help you. the tors just may be whats making it rev. but that would only be if your carb tops arent sealing correctly to the carb body. my problem was the threads on the tors caps became worn down and shitty. the pressure from the slides return spring kept popping the top off. any problem with reving without the throttle is usually caused by an air leak.

TORS is short for throttle override system, thats what it does. there are a whole bunch of switches routed in the electrical that basically just take a charge and draw power. it doesnt alow the bike to rev with the parking brake pulled in im pretty sure. the first thing i did was remove all of its crap. this includes the big junky bulky carb tops, a bunch of wiring, a control unit, a couple switches, and of course, the parking brake assembly! if your looking for a good mod. the removal kit is it. add an aluminum clutch perch and a parking brake block off and youve sucessfulyl shed at least a pound or more and added alot of simplicty to your shee!

that idea with the propane torch is possibbley the best idea i have hered for finding an airleak. good call bub ive had weedwackers detonate before. i ran em regardless untill they..... detonated. like dajog said. tear it apart... check your compression first to see how far you have to go inside. try the propane trick. if your lucky the leak will be on the outside and not in the actual motor.

anyone have any pics of the entire hinson setup? i know the stock PP's and hubs are good enough but what the hell might as well go big or go home.... especially in my case where everything is a fuckin mess... are the hinson pressure plates and hubs billet too? as for your question, i have hered alot of good things about the tusk kits and will probley be going with one of them myself. the baskets, as said. all the same. billet is billet. but there is one clutch basket that has stainless clips. but it was mentioned that one of them coming loose would do some serious damage to gears..... id go all billet.

np! good to know! oil displaces water.

where the hell is bigred when you need em?? im interested in learning a bit more into this as well considering methanol is easy to buy here in canada. truckstops carry it for truckers lookin to thaw out frozen diesel. whats the minimum you need as far as mods go for running methanol? is the mixture the same as regular gas? special mix oil? whats the deal here man? im down for running it for sure even with the purging and such.

i posted on here under alot of names. i always ended up fogetting the accounts. i was stylemaster for teh longest time and dave77. i remember when buddy kept posting that stupid rabbit with the pancake on its head.....

bwahahahahahhahahahahahhahahahahha now thats a buisnessman. not seeing any panties or money lately CFM?

Brad, what has nine arms and sucks? anyway. metric sockets (good quality is a must with these) a nice ratchet. Wrenches. gear wrenches are the tits and ass if you can afford em but i just use regular shitty metric cheapo-s. some ball end metric allen wrenches are nice. especially when you wanna replace all the stripped shitty phillips head screws with better allen heads. get yourself an "impact screwdriver" this tool works in combination with said BFH.

new shee eh? heres some steps i think of in order as to what ya should do. check that oil, your drain plug is located on the underside of th case. its a 16mm bolt i believe. drain just a bit and check its consistency. ideally, it should have close to no metal shavings in it, and should NOT be milky looking. shiny and lubey is great. (if its shit, change it!) check to make sure your airfilter is clean and properly installed. check to see your boots leading from air intake to carbs are all the way on and properly installed. carbs, take your time here and absorb everything you can about them. work slowly, clean them yourself. 1. remove the carbs from the intake system leaving the cables and tops attached. 2. slowly unscrew the tops from the carb bodies, your throttle cable will remain attached to the SLIDE, which holds the needle and such. the spring will not fly away. 3. now you have 2 "supposedly" clean carb bodies. the left side carb has the choke assembly attached, becareful not to lose the tube conecting the 2 carbs. it makes the choke work on the right carb via vaccum pressure. 4. find a nice clean work area and begin by removing the bowls being careful to not tear the gaskets here. they cant be reversed so a good idea is to write l and r on a piece of paper. i put the screws in the bowls and drop the l paper in the left bowl and the r paper in the right bowl so i remember. 5. i havent had my carbs apart for a while so a step by step from here on is up to the guys.... basically, just slowly disassemble the parts of each carb taking care to keep left parts to the left side ofme and right parts to the right side of me. clean EVERYTHING with a good soaking of carb cleaner in an icecream tub. use a toothbrush to break up any crap and wash the parts off with a shot of cleaner as you re assemble the carbs with cleaned parts! il post more in a bit. that should get you started. other reasons for a rev up include air leaks, cable binding (alot of the times poor routing can cause a rev everytime you turn to the left) the TORS system can cause reving. loose carb tops made mine rev like a fucker once day. all kinds of things! glad to hear ya got yourself a 2 stroke bud! we have your answers!

yea, ill admit to owning a 416ex at one point along with the banshee. they both had their bonuses, the ex trailed the shit outta my shee anyday.

yea its a nice pickup. ditch the vinyls and get some solid red maiers with a red frame job :biggrin: basicaly im just advising your welcome to the hq and soon enough, you WILL be doing a frame up on that machine hahaha heres some nessassary items! 1. clymers manual! 2. some decent tools! 3. regular visits to hq. ps, my shee makes my eyes water too.... you know your flyin when you have fun opening your mouth and feeling your cheeks flap.

^^^ he nailed everything down pretty good. i wouldnt advise the spacer plate either... just another gasket to leak. go with case trenching all the way, theres alot of good builders kickin here. -not to jack the thread but are the 4mm hot rod cranks built with 5mm rods?

yea its comin back give him some time. remember the time bhq went down for about a week and a half?? lee came through lol

Ministry is meant to be felt :cool: its a soul thing, a vibe thing.

last word. screw honda, my bloods blue

they have potent little engines in them. a 250R will out mx the tecate any day (they were the mx favorite for years) as for reliability. anything is unreliable if you dont ride it right, hell. look what happened to my shee if i had of looked after it as much as i rode it i probley would have noticed the entire internals of my engine were going tits up!

what he said, anyone can fix their car no a days. its no fun like it used to there computers. take small engine mechanics or something because they are onna stay old school for a while. i nver finished highschool. i just go to work now eventually they will lay me off and our wonderful government up here in canada will pay my tuition to become productive in society!

ok. i change my mind, keep your motor for now since your already faster. go with a set of arms up front and flip your rear rims!