Bancheez

A stock cylinder, 4mil, ported banshee, that has been well tuned, will WALK ALL OVER a stock 450, and will usually take a built 450 as well.

Well, Just like alot of the other guys have said, I would recomend going with a 4mil crank and a good port job (F.A.S.T) on your stock cylinders, especially if you want to stick with your stock carbs and FMF pipes. With this type of set-up, you will easily hit your 60-70hp mark. I am 6'3", 260# and I run a 4mil with play port on stock bore cylinders, and 'shee halls the mail... even with my big ass on it! You are just throwing away good money (and bottom end) with those big bore kits. And with a big bore, you have to think about how you are going to cool those big cylinders... $400 radiator? Start small, if you need more power after a few years, upgrade your carbs and bump up the compression. Then, if you are still not happy, buy a PV Cheetah set-up.

Well, They came off a j-arm banshee... but i haven't tried to install them on an a-arm 'shee. not sure if they are the j-arm only pipes or not...

OUCH!!! :ohmy:

I just put my set of PT Mids on Ebay last night. they are in good shape overall, no dents, some rust, but ready to run. Check 'em out PT-Mids On Ebay

LMFAO!!! :yelrotflmao: Yes, F@%K TRINITY!!! I would also like to send a bag...

First, order up a clutch cover gasket, a water pump seal, and the impeller shaft bearing. You will want to do these all at once, as i have seen SEVERAL seized water pump bearings. don't be surprised if yours is seized when you pull it apart. All in all, a pretty easy upgrade. and yes, they do make a big difference in cooling, and you don't have to worry about the stock one dissintegrating. :thumbsup:

Ditch the PJ and find a 35pwk, you will be much happier. The PJ's tend to be more of a pain to dial in... IMO

I am looking for a cdi box with the early style plug. thanx.

So, did this guy fall off the face of the earth... or just never realy had anything to sell? still waiting on pics and paypal address for axle... since I have first dibs!

you got second dibs on the axle... I pmed him about it 2 days ago. just waiting for pics and paypal address. sorry :shrug:

I run them on my mx/woods bike and LOVE them. but, it is all about what you are going to be doing with it. I ride mostly woods, so the low and midrange hit that these pipes have, make them awsome for what I do. But, if long top end pulls are what you are doing, these are not the pipes for you. They have a real good bottom and mid, but definately sign-off quite early on top. Hope this helps.

so, do you have a graydon intake for sale too? how much? pm me. thanx

I didn't get rid of the 36... It just got put on the shelf. I was looking for a 38 or 39mm carb for my tri-z project, and i ended-up getting a pair of 39 pwk carbs off a 2000 xc700 for $45. So, i just figured since i had an extra 39 laying around, i would give it a shot. If the 36 is the way to go, that is fine by me, as i already have a few seasons of jetting the 36, and have a pretty good idea of where it needs to be in different temps. I personally run the single carb because of the AMAZING ease of tuning, and i don't run on the top-end that much, so the small amount of lost top-end you get with a single carb, doesn't bother me... I still spank the 450's :biggrin:

ttt

Well fellas, i changed quite a few things up this year and i am looking for some jetting suggestions. I went from a stock port 4mil w/a 36pwk, to a F.A.S.T. 4mil play port w/a 39pwk. In the 36pwk, i was running a 45 pilot, eek needle, & 195 main in 70-80 degree weather. Now i will be running this 39pwk in about 60 degree weather. I ride between 1200-1800 ft elevation. thanx for any and all info. :beer:

I would have to say either a KTM MX525 or the Polaris 525 Outlaw. Both are VERY badass machines (thanx to the KTM engines). It would be a hard choice between the two... so i had better get both :thumbsup:

I traded a bone stock, mint condition, '01 warrior for a bone stock, ok condition, '01 banshee at the dealership I work for. I paid $1200 for the warrior that i traded for the banshee that had a price tag of $3795 on it, so who made out on that deal :biggrin: Then, I got my boss to pay for new chain and sprockets for the 'shee, since the warrior was mint :thumbsup:

OK, with a slightly clearer head this morning, i think i can explain myself a little better. I just got my set of stock bore cylinders back from Jeff @ F.A.S.T. (4mil port) and started assembling my engine. first, my base gaskets are about .010 thicker than what Jeff recomends. My gaskets are .030 vesrah's, Jeff recomends .020 gaskets (i assembled it anyway so i could check my squish). Then, i installed my Trinity head and checked my squish... .036 - .037, a little tight, but not too much, VERY runnable. So, if i had run the thinner .020 base gaskets, my squish would be .026-.027, OK for a full race engine that gets LOTS of maintenance, but too tight for a reliable trail motor (although, i ran it all last season with .025 squish with no problems... until it pushed an o-ring... then melted a 1/4" hole in my piston) So, satisfied with my squish numbers, i removed the head and sent it w/ my buddy to have it polished. Using the domes out of the trinity head, i was trying to explain, to a good friend of mine, what squish is and how to measure/change it. While holding a 65mm piston up to the dome to illistrate my point, i noticed just how much larger diameter the dome is compared to the piston (1.7mm larger) For a moment, i didn't think these were the correct domes for my set-up. I then realized the largest overbore is 66.5mm, so these domes are more than likely for a stock sleeve banshee. i was just a little overloaded at this point and all i could think was "great, now i have to order a new set of domes b-4 riding" But, after a little Clear thought, i realized everything is going to be OK, but it still doesn't explain why out of 2 sets of domes, the diameter varries from 66mm-66.7mm. I'm not realy asking a question here, just posting up my experience with this set-up. thanx for the responses fellas, and i WILL be contacting dlnoss about dome set-ups. thanx alot THANX FOR ALL THE HELP JEFF! :thumbsup:

OK fellas, I am a polaris technician w/ 8 years of experience in the bis (15 yrs w/a wrench in hand) and considered myself a pretty savy mechanic... Recently I decided to get serious about my passion, building high horsepower performance engines. I realized very quickly that I only know a 1/4 of what I "thought" i knew... i would love to get in to just some of the things i have learned in the past 4 days, but as i get further into this, i feel my brain shutting down (overloaded), so i'll get to the stupid question that spawned this thread. I am looking for a couple of you cool head owners to measure the diameter (cross section) of the combustion chamber. see, i have a couple sets of domes here and they both measure slightly different. the standard set is 66mm, the other set is for a 4mm stroke and measure 66.7mm. What is the absolute largest overbore on a stock sleeve banshee? I thought it was 66.5mm. Just curious if there are any other variation in size on these things... If none of this makes sense, please bear with me, im a little shot tonight. i'm done, thanx.

I realize this is an old thread, but I have to put in my 2 cents. OK, I recently purchased a pair of 39mm pwk carbs off a 2000 xc 700. I will be running one of these on my ported '85 1/2 Tri-z, and one on my '01 banshee. I currently run a 36mm pwk quadvent on my cascade 2 into 1 intake. with my freshly ported cylinders (F.A.S.T.) I was recomended (from cascade) to run a larger 38 or 39 mm carb to take advantage of the new port, on top-end. however, cascade admitted that there would be a bottom-end loss with the larger carb. So, since i am a polaris technician, and have heard several guys raving about these things in there sleds, I ordered up a set of SLP's Power Pack venturi dividers (they look to be the exact same things that Jeff @ F.A.S.T. is sellingJeffs Dividers). I will be running these in both the tri-z and banshee (since i got 2 sets). What i am hoping for, is that the dividers will make the larger bore 39mm carb have the same or better bottom-end characteristics than the smaller 36mm carb, without sacrificing top end. I haven't gotten my cylinders back from Jeff yet, but i am thinking of mounting the 39mm carb up (on my stock port cylinders) and testing it without the dividers, then install the dividers and see if there is a big difference. The idea behind the dividers makes sense to me, and like i said, i have quite a few guys who run these in their xc700 & xc800 sleds and love 'em. I will let everyone know what i find out.

I have a fairly stock '94 with lots of '01 parts. very nice shape. mods are in my sig. LMK.

TTT

This may be acouple hours away from you, but it is well worth the drive. LOTS of trails and a sweet little motocross track. I usually go here a few times a year. check it out: Majestic trail system :beer:

The spacer behind the detent spring is what will actually hold the kicker in. more spring pressure on the detent ball will make up for the worn out kicker shaft.