monster_energy06

i have some mikuni vm 30ss 30mm not lookin to trade but can sell thegood cond. need pull chokes and cable.. chokes i can get 13$ a piece

i have a white grill and stock reeds. also have those screws kickin.. u migth as well buy some metric allen heads from a hardwear store tho...

are u willing to part with the k&n pods?? pm me let me know

ttt i also have some 30mm mikuni carbs there vm 30ss... they fit stock intake....make me an offer there to big for my engine

im goin back home to pick up parts and rebuild my shee and i wont have internet. if anybody needs anything. call 1 705 919 1951 ask for nick any time 24/7 on the weekend i also found a pair of shockpros shock covers there around 14 1/4" long. they are red with black flames.. the have a used up spot on each at the bottom from rubbing on my sleds a-arms.. but they still look pretty good 20$

yep ive seen and used this stuff befor on my sleds tunnel support took the paint of and i polished it.. good stuff

moose thumber sold to dan pending payment

fuck someone should sticky a do not use a boost bottle topic this subject has been beaten to dead soo many times its not even funny anymore...

i think my gf has fingernail remover stuff... im already done. too bad i didn't see yur post befor i had a dremel in the storage ya thats what i did worked out great did use a prilo pad for the rest worked great thanks for all the replies and help. cylinders are ready to go on.. now only 5h of drinving home and start on the rebuild

tx guys ill do that. sounds like it will take a while ... is there any stuff i can put ont there to remove it faster.. i know there gasket remover but im not sure about it, and if its for this type of gasket

got some cylinders off a good freend of mine.. gunna rebuild the shee this weekend.. but there's a bunch of gasket left over under the cylinders..... whats the best, most effective, and cheapest way to remove the left overs???

for got to post these parts 2000 banshee axle 50$obo: straight lil bit rusted good splines stock a-arms set 50$: ball joints seen pretty good, sliver, some paint missing on the bottom arms, i think i have dust caps not sure, also mighth need one new bottom boot, sold as is pm'd back will pm u tx

hi have some banshee parts kickin around that i dont need mostly small suff soo far i have no pics, will try to answer all questions. as soon as my usb cable for my digi comes in, ill have pics and can email them out or open a photo buket account prices dont include shipping...i only charge only actual shipping. no handeling charge... i take pay pal, 3% fee only on cylinders, head, air box, and thumb throttle. all prices are best offer call me if needed 1 705 919 1951 ask for nick .020 cylinders stock port 130$: one needs oversize no mager damage. other one is perfect with wiseco piston clutch case 25$: faire cond no cracks some gauging at the bottom from brake pedal rubbing. stock head 40$; mint cond., no damage, non shaved, stock air box 40$; i need to chek on it for damage im 95% sure its good. comes with everything, boots clamps, cover, K&N filter(might need cleaning(. stock reeds and cage 30$: mint cond. reeds have good tension stock intake boots 25$: good condition cut for vforce stock pistons 15$: oem pistons, good rings, no scuffs, scraps, or dent. would make good spares clucth lever oem 10$: complete oem clutch perch and lever with parking brake off a 2000 everything's there stock key housing 10$; plastic key housing good shape, no key switch tors delete tops 15$; like new tors delete carb tops no ajuster screws twist throttle cable 15$: motion pro every good cond. use 4 times. tors cap with cable 20$: tors carb tops with tors wires comes with newer cable i think motion pro in great shape tors caps no tors wires with cable 15$: good cond. no tors wires, cable still good tors bodie with tors wires no cable 10$: great shape cable snaped bodies only tail light with mount braket 10$: good cond. needs bulb. comes with mounting that also holds license plate off a 2000 shee stock bumper 20$: off a 2007 shee good cond. pro taper square bar pad 10$: good cond black and chrome "have pic" moose raicng square bar pad 15$: brand new never used silver and black moose thumb throttle 45$: silver, pulling arm is a bit bent but still works great. over all cond. is good looks great.

like said befor if installed rigth cleanned and torqed.... it will never break off. my buddy jessy had one in hes shee for 4 years, never broke. i installed one in my shee for 3 months never broke. i have one in my 04 f6 carb (sled), the key x2 smaller then the shee's, and the fly wheel is x2 bigger plus the recoil is connected to the fly wheel..... uh 4 years and never broke and never. if they brake off its because was installed wrong . bottom line there a good bang for the buck, and less work to install then a timming plate

no problem everything is there for a reason

yup all balls swinger seals are way to big ... short answer to all this. get some new yamy swinger seals instead, and scrap the allballs seal. if im right... the moose kit is made buy all balls..... im glad to see im not the only one thats had this problem. answer to that lil metal flang welded on the right side at the pivot point. thats to keep tha seal from popping out. on the other side, the chain wheel guide keeps the other seal in place

last year i ran Ipone R4000 RS full synthesis 10w40.. never had a tranny problem. what so ever. this year im running motul 10w40. i think its 7100 synthetic ester 4t but im not 100% sure could be the 5100 sythetic ester 4t. i dont have the jug here soo cant remember. i found the motule oil kept cleanner then the ipone 40000R did... that being said, i think next time ill try the bel ray gear saver 80w sound like its good stuff

here are yur options 1: get a half link 2: go down 1 or 2 teeth in the back sproket 3: grind down the slide hole a bit for more a justment 4: buy a new chain start all over again 5: run it as is, hope for the best

ill get on that asap

soo what would of caused my water jacket seal to pop in??? anyone?? like i said above could my engine have last 2 years like this??

ive used them in all my atv's for a couple of years now,and there holding up strong.. the only problems ive had with them are the chain roller, they hold up to long on the top location. and, the dust cap seals in the banshee swinger kit are to big and almost impossible to put on.. thats it ... for the price and quality .. its an A1 product in my book

uh??? well i gess thats what happend... first time i take off the jugs on this thing ..the bike has been running like this for over 2 years since the rebuild, wen my buddy had it.... the damn rubber piece is almost pushed all the way in..???? could my shee have survived that long with that piece pushed in?? cuz i have been riding this thing all the time since i bought it ....... or could somethign have caused this piece to push it self in?? sounds impossible really..... its bolted right down to the base gasket and right to the crank case??? tx for the info BansheeDan.. i wasnt really sure what that piece did but i kinda thought about it but wasnt sure...

anyone?? also i brought the cylinders and pistons to an engine shop. the tech told me it looked like an over heating problem??? im runnin a cool head with a billet impeller also.. soo im stumped but i would like to know what i that rubber piece or quare plug is, at the bottom of the cylinder.....

ok soo went back home for a few days and took the shee along with me... last ride befor this, bike ran good enough i gess..... back home it seemed to run flat on top...but plug chop was good... kept riding it seemed fine i raced this guy on a 700 craptor and hate him alive..... on the way back i had it pined and notice a lack of power... i let off the gas and rode it off a bit.... let it idle didnt want to idle too good. killed it and let it cool off . it didnt want to start rigth way, got it started and it ran fine idled fine .... rode back home got a compression gauge. it was at 150psi mag side and 90ish psi the other... wtf.... took it apart and found my bottom ring seized and the top of the piston slightly chipped cylinder wasnt the worst ive ever seen... doesnt look like a lean problem.. but i did find the bottom rubber piece at the bottom of the cylinder pushed in on the blown side... im not sure what that lil rubber plate does????? any ideal on what could of caused this.... ill try to get pics and open a photo bucket acount

there aren't many options wen u score nikasil cylinders .. if u dont catch yur finger nail on the scrtach its fine. just give it a quick ball hone and yur good to go ... but if u can cactch yur finger nail on it youll need to get it replated..... i know it sucks but thats the way it is...... u can try and get away with it but chances are u will run into bigger problems in the end that will cost alot more then getting it replated....