WINDYCITYJOHN400

Should work great in your new cub motor.

Says the child who's going to take his toys and go home........ Enjoy browsing Ebay for the latest in high powered Banshee gear. (I recommend you try "Parts Depot") LMAO

28 flat slides with Pro Circuits FTMFW!

Cam gas been crafting that response for a full month apparently. LOL

Motion pro just made me one +2 clutch cable. Also made my custom throttle cables for my twin big Mikuni's. I'm sure shorter cables won't be a big deal.

Glad I was able to keep it short enough for you to be able to follow......

LOL......isn't every track slower than most? Just like every dyno is conservative. .... And every bike has alot more in it.......

You can EVER get enough METAL!!! http://www.guitarmasterclass.net/rhythm-guitar/more-metal-drop-d/

X2 ^^^ Nice shocks and arms. Ok pipes. Clean plastics....that's about it. $2500

He was trying to move from NY to Colorado. He's still got most of his machine.......

Most of there products have the cnc machining finished in house. So cylinders, domes, heads all fall into risky. Trinity Ricky Stator Women with open sores Lending anything you value to DDQ All things to steer clear of.

No. Run away. Run far away as fast as you can. Then call a site sponsor for your needs. Don't mess with kits on Ebay!

WOW......better figure out what's going on because the plastic gear sure isn't going to hold up better than the billet.

What size are your main/pilot jets?......

http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/store/store_View.cfm?STORE_AREA_ID=57&store_dept_id=917 $90 buck new. Pick your favorite style......

Try another set of fresh plugs, swap plug wires and see if the problem moves from one side to the other. Also click on 375hp Banshee's link above ^^^^^ and give that a look through.

What happened to cause the rebuild? Did something let loose or melt down with the previous combo? If so, you might have had junk in the bearing and after firing up this new combo....30 min of ride time trashed the bearing, heated the rod, transferred heat to that cylinder and lead to the detonation that killed the plug and did all the piston/dome damage. Hard to tell with pictures, but everything looks pretty dry. Was assembly oil used on everything, crank pre oiled thru the oil galleries, ring lands oiled, etc? Last thought - I bought a used motor that had loose cases. (The crank wobbled on the bearing supports.) You could do a leakdown test and get a positive result, then once riding and the motor was reved up....the crank would wobble and I'd get an airleak thru the crank seal. I gave me fits because I was chasing jetting due to the positive leakdown results. Check the cases/crank for trueness and correct fit when it's apart.

Yep. The 4's will outperform everything..... with the only exception being wide open throttle drag bikes that keep the RPM's up at peak for most of the track. (Where PEAK power numbers matter more) (You know... the strut/rigid/wheelie bar bikes on alky with OOF pipes on groomed tracks.) On some of the 100+ HP motors, the 2's will make 1-2 more PEAK HP. But the 4's have a much better curve leading to peak. So for the drag guys who love the 2's....stick with them cause I'm not knocking them. But if you don't have a drag only bike.....4's FTW!

If the porting is mismatched it's possible for each cylinder to need different jetting. (The real solution is to fix the porting.) But I'm 90% sure your issue is related to something else. Clean carbs and all passages as well as set your float heights (Float height can effect the way each jet acts...it's not just about keeping the bowls full) then sync the carbs so the slides are identical. Start with that. If the problem continues - check packing in pipes - inspect your reeds - then turn your attention to your electronics

Yep. If your running a 465cc or bigger DRAG ONLY machine you can see 1-2 more peak HP from the 2's. But the 4's will be right there with the 2's. (WAY better than the 3's! ) The 4's also offer a much better front side curve. (Better than the 3's here too) So for those who drag the dunes and are on and off the throttle to stay in control, the 4's would be my pick. On smaller motors, the 4's outshine the 2's across the board. They also make more power than modded 3's. So a stock untouched 4 will make more low/mid/peak than a modded 3. Also testing showed that on motors under 75HP, modding the 3's actually hurts performance. On 100+HP motors, pulling the stuffers and doing the stuffer mod on the 3's can gain 3-4 HP. But untouched 4's still make more power than the modded 3's.

If you had a 10 mill making 77 HP you would know not to run those stupid undersized Paul Turners on the damn thing. 99% of people who say a dyno can be manipulated are just repeating stuff they have heard. For the purposes of testing all they are doing is swapping reeds. The results of THAT experiment are almost identical to the results YOU will have. Because most riders don't have their motor dialed in perfect in the first place.....so a before and after test with zero tuning is exactly the way you would run your machine if you bought new reeds. (If you did a little research, you might go up one pilot jet size and gain better rideability and midrange power.) V-4's FTW! Using a dyno to prove stuff instead of taking the word of 100 fools and their Butt Dyno opinions FTW X2!

They didn't do any adjustments other than reed swaps ......and we don't see A/F ratios.........But I did the initial R&D dyno testing on these and I posted that you could see results like this depending on the level of motor performance. V-4's are for real. More than a few dyno curves have been posted and they all say the same thing.....V-4's FTW!

LMAO....the intakes are bigger than the bore!

That's only 1 hour NW of our family vacation farm in Amberg. I'm going to be in Amberg for a week around the 4th of July.......