WINDYCITYJOHN400

Damn, That's funny! Did you all catch the last dirt wheels issue. They had an editorial in the front titled man cave. If you look close, they photoshopped a big Trinity logo on the wall, 1-upper and 1- lower A-arm hanging on the wall, a head pipe and an aluminum ATV wheel on the bench, a single ATV trophy on the bar, a single O'neal sticker on a fridge clearly coverd with only car stickers and I think the flat screen TV with the ATV video game in the background was photoshopped too! Other than 2 ATV's pushed into the garage, if you look at it, the garage looks to be owned by someone who is into cars and bicycles. Seriously, are the staff on DirtWheels so lame that they have to write stries out of thin air? MY garage looks cooler than that and I run a heating businees out of it! Even still, I have more cool ATV "Man Cave" items than the garage in their story.

Cheetah or Cheetah Cub? If it's a full Cheetah your problem is your domes. Nothing in life is ever perfectly balanced, so one plug is going to back out first. (You ever burn out both headlights at the same time? No.) So when detonation kicks in the weekest link in the set-up is the plug. Just be glad your not blowing O-rings. You might have less packing in one pipe or the other, crank could be out of phase, carbs pulling different, one filter cleaner than the other.....either way, the backing of a plug means "Stop riding till you figure it out before something very pricey happens."

I know Harry because he's screwed me on 2 motors. A 400 powervalve cheetah that was making @60-65HP and blowing O-rings that I was so frustrated with that I sent it back after 3 seasons of trying to figure out what "I" was doing wrong. Then he sent me a 472 powervalved cheetah that he personaly built. That motor still was going thru O-rings like McDonalds goes thru french fries. Dyno showed it was junk and the domes were garbage. Had it full ported, got new domes, (Thank you TITAN RACING) and then it ran.....81HP with CPI BB In-FRames...95HP with Shearer SB In-Frames. (NOTE: Trinity claimed the motor dyno'd at 92HP.) 95 was the highest I could get with a full port job. As delivered from Trinity, this motor needed a 14-45 gear to come out of the hole with 11 paddle extremes!!! WTF? So, I know Harry, because I'm the thorn in his side that won't go away. If you call him and drop my name, I'll feel warm all over because he said he doesn't have these problems and if I ever heard of anyone with an issue, he'd love for me to let him know. DID YOU LET HIM KNOW? I'm sure hoping so! Tell us what he offered to do for you.....

Well first I get the clear clutch cover...then I get the clear stator cover....now clear float bowls?..........Damn, anybody want to buy some full polished 35PWK bowls? Now I'll just need a clear fuel tank.

Yes, I can help. Call Trinity and ask for Harry. Tell Harry "John Case" Said to call you and disscuss this issue with you personally as he said you wanted to hear about any problems people were having. Tell him your story. When your done venting....face the fact that you can't get "Un-Raped" and you need to just move on. (Feel free to join the support group of former victims in the "Produt Reviews" section in the post titled "Trinity Blows".) Then realise that the only thing with worse performance than the Trinity pipes...is the Trinity motor you may own. In any case, Toomey, FMF,CPI, Shearer would be the choice you should have made. It's OK, I went the same route too, so I'm speaking from experience. You don't want the pipes back...you just want to try to get a refund. Good luck with that! Then be sure to update us all.

$60.00 shipped........

X2 That's why we're putting a cool head on his bike this season...to raise compression. He's going to run 110 or OXY 113 and race MX in the Megacross series. He's gotten 80 hrs. on them and they still look new. Good to hear your getting the same reliability as we are. How do you like the T-5's with that set-up? We're going to be testing some FMF's,CPI's, Shearers,Fat Bastards in addition to re-testing with the ProCircits. Oddly we don't have any T-5's at this point to try....

No, the Serval kit needs some 35 PWK's for carbs. (That will require different intakes than stock) Then your going to want CPI's or SHEARERS for a pipe. So costs add up quick. That's why every choice you make in a build has to fit into an overall plan. I personally think that the new Serval cylinder has eliminated the reason to port a stocker. You can get awesome HP and Massive torque from the Serval compared to a ported 4mill stock cylinder set-up. If your on a budget, the Vito's Pro Stock pistons act like a 1/2 port job and sell for less than $200.00. So in my view, the step cost wise from stock with a piston change to Serval is kind of large, but the only thing that I think fits price wise between those two choices, is to buy an already built ported set-up or an already built 4 mil combo from someone who is upgrading. Others will disagree I'm sure, but for the money, why would anyone build 370 Long rod motors or ported stock cylinder 4mill dune motors, when you can get all that Serval power in a bolt on kit that runs on pump gas and makes 80HP and 50Ft Lbs. of torque?

If your motor doesn't have any port work, I'd recommend going with the Vito's Pro Stock pistons. They have a dropped front edge that gives the motor the illusion that it's ported. They boost power and are very reliable. We've got a bike that dyno's at 50HP with them and he's using stock carbs, head, reeds and just Pro Circit pipes. (Stock is 34-36HP) We're going with a cool head and domes to raise compression this year as well as switching to V-force reeds. I think the Pro Stocks would fit your situation perfectly.

I've got that too. I painted the face of my flywheel with chrome paint and it looks cool. (It gets LOTS of attention and the comments are all positive) It flips people out because they see it and think it's the lock-up cover...then they do a double take when they realize what side of the bike it's on. But it's made by ModQuad. (I didn't know that till it arrived. I HATE ModQuad.) It sticks out far enough that my Cascade gear slammer shifter doesn't fit. The stock shifter does...so I don't know what other shifters would have an issue. But so far I have yet to see a stator cover with the tribal design.....

X2 on your Serval comment. But that's ALOT more money than just 2 pistons for under $200. Alot of guys don't have that kind of cash. (Don't forget Servals require carbs/intakes and pipes, etc.) That's why the prostock pistons are a nice deal for a rebuild. You get added performance, for a standard piston price.

WOW is that thing pipey. Not much bottom, but Lots of top end. I'd love to have that as a dune bike, but that price is steep for what it is and this market. I'm not saying it's not worth it. (We all know what kind of money you have in it.) But for me, shipping would add another $600 easy. Very nice looking bike though. Give me first bid on the plastics and seat if you part it! DIBS!

The one your thinking of is a clutch cover. I've got that one. Here's where you need to look. Cascade Innovations... http://67.199.65.66/cascade_innovations/newlook/store/store_View.cfm?STORE_AREA_ID=13&store_dept_id=837

We "Hear" alot. But it's never a guy willing to admit he had a leaky air filter connection that let a boatload of dirt into the motor. Or the guy who runs cheap old gas station 2-stroke oil in his mix. Or the guy who put a piston in that would increase performance, yet he never re-jetted. 80 hours now, on Vito's pro stock pistons with a good synthetic oil and we can still see the cross hatching on the cylinder as well as the machining grooves on the piston skirts. (We just pulled that motor for his bike make over, and I looked at the pistons yesterday. MINT) I'd highly recommend the pistons for a re-build if you want a quick boost in power without the cost and effort to get porting.

If your having trouble with blasters, you might want to do the JATO mod.

Fastest and cheapest way is to stop eating at McDonalds. Seriously, you can trim weight off yourself to a greater extent than you can off your bike. But if your looking to drop the quads weight, start with lighter wheels and tires. The stock swingarm is a major lead brick. Get a round tube chromloy replacement. Stock pipes are heavy. Lighter grab bars, loose the tors. I wouldn't worry about messing with wiring changes to save weight untill everything you own that was mild steel is now chromoly. If your on a budget.......just run helium in your tires.

Pick your favorite ride area, start a post about everyone riding there, work out a few dates, and you can make it happen. That's the great part about being a member here, post some pics or video's of where you ride and others will want to join you and try it. (You might even find videos on youtube of others riding there that you can post if you don't have any.) Good luck.

Flip the page and post the graphs with the RPM instead of the MPH. Trinity always puts the MPH first and I don't know why. The RPM graph tells the story better. Awesome looking bike! I forwarded the post to a friend who's bike we're making over right now. I was suggesting something like what you have. Now he can get a good visual.

I'm voting for a "MEGA-SERVAL-10MIL-DM" That would be a chain breaking stump puller.

Nothing wrong with the silencers. Packing one pipe is as hard as any other. The only issue is that the caps have to stay in the original clock position as they came off. Mark the 12 o'clock position on each and mark left and right cap before you take it apart, and it will go back together like a dream. Could be worse, you could be drilling out rivits and then having to re-rivit you pipes back together like you do with some brands...

Almost nightly, so I checked 3 times a week. Because I'm almost never on twice a day. But I don't miss many days.

OK, as long as the animals aren't walking in pairs towards the ark it's fine. But if we're talking horizontal sleet with freshly thawed greese on the ground.....I'll be home polishing aluminum. If I need more than a sweatshirt and a wind breaker...you can just tell me all about it. So April 9th?....

Surpisingly CPI doesn't have a standard spacing on the silencer holes. You would think that they would have all the holes on every pipe drilled the same. But they don't. If you pull the left cap off the left silencer and turn it 1/3 turn clockwise the holes won't line up. If you put the left cap on the right pipe...None of the holes line up. It's like they hand drill each hole by eye. When you buy new caps from them they come Un-drilled, so you have to drill and tap them yourself. So turning them and re-drilling them will work just as well. Otherwise mark your caps well before you pull them apart, or swap and twist till you find the original placement for both caps. Hope that helps you, and anyone thinking of re-packing soon.

I was really leaning towards the race gas build too. I run 110 at 40:1 in all my bikes and only use this one for Silverlake. (This serval would be in the wife's dune bike with a +6 arm) I don't want to buy 2 different fuels. I'd like to do either a 400cc stock stroke long rod serval (I already have this crank&rod combo) or a 421cc 4mill long rod serval with either CPI Big Bore In-Frames or Shearer Small Bore In-Frames. (I have both and would dyno to find the best choice for this combo) I was hoping that with a little more compression and +4 timings I might see a little more HP and even more torque in the mid. You dont think so? Don't get me wrong...we should all applaud the fact that you can make 80HP on pump gas. (Your not going to get that out of a fully dune ported 4mill stock cylinder on pump gas. ) But there has to be a way to tweek a little more out if the fuel will allow it.....

Yeah, plus if you pull the silencers off, you'll change the flow and then your jetting will be off. If your dragging and have those pipes, you have the wrong pipes. If your just trying to go a little faster for a few drag runs, your going to end up doing more harm than good. Just run what you have and smile. If it's not enough....start building.