flyRTby

Thanks a lot for all the compliments!

The nerf bars are "ac pro peg nerf bars" picked them up from magic racing a few years ago. The silencer tips are "sparky II's" and can be found on toomeys web site! Thanks! For the compliments i thought this post was dead! A few more pics w/plastics.. Shees ready for Silver Lake Memorial Weekend 2012 baby! See you guys in the sand!

in reply to my previous post. Shell gasoline FTMFW! Between Shell and BP they have the highest percentage of detergents in their fuel. Detergents are great for knocking down carbon build up that wicks away fuel/performance. It starts with good fuel and is maintained with additives/cleaners. Sea foam to me is a lazy mans carb cleaner, just my .02. I would use it, but it defiantly would not be my first choice. Also a little side note fuel goes bad after 90 days. (yes i know we all have had fuel in a tractor, weed whip, banshee etc. for longer than that and it still runs ok. Lets face it though, when you ditch the old fuel and replace with new: easier starts, better performance, cleaner running engine.) Use fuel stabilizer if the fuel/canister/vehicle will be sitting for 3 months or more.

I don't always ride trails, but when I do, I choose St.Helens. Ride safely my friends

You mean spray painting old shitty parts and claiming they're new isn't good business... Good ol' Rattle Can Ray strikes again.. Over priced junk at its finest. Returning customer, buying hundreds of dollars worth of stuff. MAYBE, he'll drop the price by 5 bucks. I had some old stock parts i took off my bike and tried selling them on Craigslist. Ray, found them and tried offering me way less than half of what he sells them for. When he replied to my listing i drilled him. I strategically priced it about $25-50 less than what HE HIM SELF SELLS IT FOR ON CRAIGSLIST. And when he shot me down i let him have it. I get it hes in business to make money so I priced them accordingly. There was still meat on the bone. But trying to make over 50% profit off me.. and every time I've ever dealt with him he would NEVER cut me a deal. Always found junk. Ray can go fuck a goat in his "barn full of parts". His friends will stick up for him by saying shit like "he sells USED parts, never does he claim they are new" well his "friends" don't read his misleading listings such as the above^^ about no bends or cracks. etc. Liar and a thief!

I like Techron. It can be found and most local auto parts stores. We ran tests on quite a few different fuel additives/treatments when i was in college. Techron was the only one that improved fuel mileage and performance. Also, if you can find a gas station that runs %100 gasoline USE IT! We used to have a gas station here in Macomb, Michigan that ran 100% gasoline. Needless to say the oil companies finally got the best of them.. All the fucking ethanol they put in our fuel is KILLING our fuel mileage.. Also if you have any friends/relatives/trusted mechanics that offer BG products. They have a phenomenal 3 part fuel induction service that works GREAT! I've also heard good things on amsoil PI but i've never used it..

Exhibit A: http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/mcy/2965782640.html I'm sure it works and probably pretty fast.. why would he be selling it...

If you buy a quality chain you shouldn't get much stretch if any. I've purchased two chains now from Jeff at F.A.S.T.. the only reason why i bought a second is because i extended my swinger also. But i ran the shit out of my first chain w/stock swinger never had to readjust it. I ran into a similar problem when installing my +4 swing arm. I was convinced i cut it too short & thought i was going to have to run two master links. Sure enough when i installed both master links and tried to adjust the chain i wasn't even close! I just so happened to cut it the right length the first time. Roundhouse carriers can be tricky for first timers.. I'm sure this didn't help you at all. Just dropping in my .02 Are you dealing with a stock carrier or a roundhouse carrier?

Well, shee's getting real close. I still have to tweak my brake line & bleed out the system. Run my cotter pins through the front and rear suspension. Grease all the zerk fittings & so on. The swing arm really came out nice, it looks mean as hell. John, from JL Engineering really came though HUGE & did one hell of a job on it! Thanks so much John! Special Thanks to every one that helped me along the way. Matt, from SCS. Jeff from F.A.S.T. And all of you HQ'ers!

I'll just leave this here..

Man, this forum really is full of a bunch of bitches

Damn, talk about rough crowd. Never did i expect to get ridiculed on every thing i said. You guys gotta lighten up. Yes, I run T6's on a ported motor. It runs great. Could it be better with different pipes? Absolutely. Even the Toomey website can tell you that! I personally don't mind the restriction because the bike still runs great and has been very reliable FOR ME. SpecialBlend07, Unlike yourself, I had no intention on coming off as if i knew it all. I was simply sharing what I did and MY experience. Apparently, I should have made that more clear. When i originally bought my pipes i had no intentions on porting my motor. Hence "doing it ass backwards". I criticized myself.. Was it really necessary to do it again? I'm glad to hear that your 70hp and up bikes, can run a stock style clutch. But again, my bad on the wording. I meant to say.. When you start getting into that range I WOULD START thinking about getting a lock up. I only wanted to touch on the subject due to the potential unexpected cost associated with higher hp engines. Especially for those of us looking for a quality (while still on a budget) build. I personally would rather be safe than sorry.. That's why i do the little things that i do, such as; pancake bearing, billet water pump, magnetic drain plug, Tors removal, etc.. To avoid/eliminate any silly problems that COULD come up while riding. Sure i could lean the fuck out of my engine and it'll run like a raped ape, I could rebuild it after every ride too. But MYSELF, MY PERSONAL OPINION & MY WALLET would rather not rebuild a engine every season. I don't have to be an engine builder or a prick to tell you. When building an engine/bike, etc., decide what you plan on doing with the bike first. Then build/bolt on appropriately. Same rules apply with any engine build/toy. I clearly did not follow those simple steps and my build still worked out OK, FOR ME. BUT it would have been easier, more cost effective & a better all around more powerful bike if i would have done it right the first time. Unfortunately unlike some of you, i don't have a whole lot of oops money to throw around. I took a BONE stock banshee and slowly but surely made myself a very respectable bike at a reasonable cost. Sure its not best, nor the fastest. But regardless I'm happy with the end result.

I agree with the above comment. I run T6's and my engine was ported(mods listed below). If i were to do it over again i would get T5's or even better T4's. But what happened to me was, i bought my pipes, THEN i did my motor work. I did it ass backwards. Its nice, in a way, because i still put down some nice numbers. Almost 60hp and over 36ft lbs. (check the dyno room, videos and pics of my bike posted) With different pipes and carbs i could easily jump 5-10 hp. BUT, being under 60hp i don't have to worry about upgrading my clutch to the max, which is nice to keep the budget down. Once you get into the 60-70hp range you really need to get rid of the stocker clutch and go with a direct drive lock up or a R1 clutch. Toomey T6's Dune Port - by kennedy power sports in MI Cool Head - custom cut domes done by kennedy VForce 3's +4 timing Stock Carbs F.A.S.T Clutch with pancake bearing (Works like a CHAMP!) T.O.R.S. Eliminated.. ok im really grasping for straws now..

For not being finished i think it looks pretty kick ass! No show, ALL GO! I dig it

Thanks! It's really coming together! I just need the rear suspension and i'll be back to brapppp brapp brappppppp'n

I went with a roundhouse style +4 by jl engineering

slowly but surely my parts are trickling in! Should be back riding in a couple weeks!

I recently had all of the same questions you had. Simply put. Front banshee shocks are junk. Stage one elka's will rock the socks off of, front stock shocks. I myself don't race professionally, i do a lot of recreational riding. Rear banshee shocks are actually pretty decent. Shouldnt be any need to replace that. If you extend the front arms for stability and straight geometry you need to extend the rear also. extending the rear adds quite a few bucks to the price. My plan of action was to eliminate the low points of the banshee's suspension that you get right out of the box (front shocks, rear carrier/style of chain adjustment). I replaced my front shocks with elka stage twos. Keeping my front a-arms. I'm in the process of painting/pc the parts i removed and replacing all bearings and seals(keep in mind the stock arms cannot be pc due to the teflon bushings and i believe teflon in the ball joint also) ball joint is not replaceable. In the rear, it was important to me to get a 35mm round house carrier so i could run the stock axle. JL engineering is building a +4 for my shee as we speak, and i got a smoking deal on it. The stock chain adjustment is just awful and i KNOW it was crooked and probably causing drag w/robs performance. im sure its minimal but still.. when all is said and done ill have a little over 1500 bucks in her.. beats the extra 1500 id spend on arms and axle just my .02

Metal Blakening, Eastwood Restorations Not a paint or dye, Eastwood's Metal-Blackening System provides a true OEM-type black oxide coating on any iron or steel part. I'm already knee deep in powder coating and painting. I came across this, figured I'd share it.

I'm still waiting on a few things. Swinger. Pc. And the painting of my a arms. Will keep posting progress

Pc when you can. I'm in the process of painting my a arms, since stock a arms can't be powder coated. Prep is everything. Quite tedious and time consuming. But I hope it will pay off in the end. I sand blasted my arms. Primered with etch prime. Picked up a half quart of jet black. And my clear coat is going I be "chip guard". Pictures will be posted soon. Anything else on the bike that is able to be powder coated will be. I don't know much about anodizing (spelling?). But that could be a option?

Just ordered some Elka Stage 2 front shocks, +4 JL Engineering swinger PC is gloss black w/35mm roundhouse carrier for stock axle, complete bearing & bushing kits for the front and rear suspension. My vision is to prep & paint both upper and lower a-arms gloss black, also the front and rear hubs gloss black. Leaving the frame silver, at least for this season. Next season ill consider doing the frame either in silver or gloss black, depending how good it looks. Anyone have a pictures similar to this "vision"?? Also if anyone is looking for a stock swinger w/carrier & w/chain, rear sprocket, & rear brake rotor. Stock Yellow front shocks. Stock Air box w/air filter. Stock heel guards, foot pegs & nerf bars. Stock exhaust. Stock handle bars. PM me ill let them go for cheap

I tried calling stellar, no response. I really need some feedback from the guys that build these things. Stellar website is impressive, Ii don't know which "style" swinger to go with (Ladder, round tube etc.) I've talked to John over at JL engineering he seems to be real good, knows his stuff & seems to have a good product. Decisions, decisions.. +3 sounds like it may be my happy medium also.. good call sonofsand

The bike puts down just under 60hp & just over 36 ft. lbs. of torque. Mods Include: Dune port, Vforce 3 Reeds, Cool Head w/custom cut domes, Pod filters, Toomey T6's. My suspension is currently BONE STOCK. I plan on getting new shocks up front, Elka Stage 1's & extending the rear swinger to either a +2 or a +4 and keeping the rear shock stock. At the dunes i run 20x10x10 9 paddle haulers & they bite hard! My riding is very recreational, from the dunes to the trails. The main reason for changing the rear swinger is to loose some traction & get rid of that awful stock carrier/chain adjustment & getting into a roundhouse style carrier. I'm leaning towards the +2 for two reasons. I want to loose some traction, but not TOO much & because i imagine the further out i go the more stress ill be putting on the rear shocks. Any quick suggestions/opinions before i pull the trigger is appreciated.

This thread only needed one good response. Idk what's with the hq lately. But a lot of people seem to think they are fuxking comedians and give out false Info. Better yet, some of you ass holes take time to reply to some very simple q's by saying "use the search button". Realize the search button is turning into a piece of shit because of threads like this. "Use olive oil". "beat it like a retarted step child". It just seems like those of you who obviously know everything. Would rather give someone the run around rather than just answering the question right the first time.