TJ10

I never really thought of rebuilding it. I thought I remembered reading somewhere on here that they weren't real easy to take apart so I kind of just threw that option out the window. I haven't really had time to take it apart and look at it though. Hopefully I'll be able to get around to it this weekend. I've got oodles of o-rings laying around if that ends up being the remedy. Thanks for the replies.

The pingel valve is what I meant. The single outlet valves are $70. I don't want to replace it with an oem valve because I'm pretty sure mine has leaked since the bike was new. I was just wondering if anyone tried anything like that before. I'll probably just go with the Pingel.

Alright so here's the problem. My petcock leaks when the valve is shut and pisses gas out of the overflows. So after a weekend fishing trip, I come home to find a full tank of $5/gal gas soaked into my yard. Anyway, I can get a new petcock for around $70 or I was thinking of adding an in line valve between the petcock and the T to the carbs which I get for around $15. Not sure if it will reduce flow too much. Anyone tried anything like this or have any other suggestions?

I have the Noss head with 20cc domes and run 93 octane gas. When I put it on, I checked the comp. and it read 75psi in one cyclinder. I know that is not correct so I just said fuck it. Runs great with 93 with no predetonation. I'll probably get it checked this spring with a better tester just for my future reference.

No complaints with Yamalube 2-R

I was suggesting that if fastquad rides in mud or water, he should run the k&n proflow over pods. I never suggested that he run a foam filter though I do agree that they do filter particles better than gauze.

I run the pro flow kit with no lid and 320 mains and thats a little rich so I think you'd be safe starting with 330 or 340 mains. I also run stock pilots but you could try 27.5 if you're not comfortable with 25's. The 30's would be way too fat IMO.

I agree to an extent...from what i've seen and researched, k&n pods are the best setup for dirt or sand riding. I wouldn't suggest them if you're going to be riding in any type of wet or muddy conditions. The risk/reward just isn't there imo. The minimal gain in power isn't worth the price of a new top end (or worse) when you suck water through the carbs. Just my 0.02. Pepe - When I looked at the aluminum box the first time, I thought it was made to run dual k&n's inside. Now when I look at it, I can see that it's made for the single k&n filter like I was suggesting. I'd still go with the k&n pro flow kit like Noss sells and stick with the stock airbox. You'll still save around $100 and the most you'll gain with the aluminum box is cosmetics.

I've never heard from anyone who's run the aluminum box with dual k&n's but you'd probably be looking at close to $400 for that setup. I don't know if the power gain of running dual filters inside the box would be worth that price. I'd put that $200 for the aluminum box towards something else and just go with the stock box and a sinlge k&n pro flow kit from Noss and maybe that k&n lid if you want the extra protection.

You may have to go a size or so larger on the mains (300) and adjust your airscrews. I've seen alot of guys running similar mods on 25s so your airscrews should have enough adjustment imo.

I was just about to post one of your quotes that I found from doing a little research on the topic when I noticed that you had replied.

Yes I believe you are correct. Sorry my mind must have been sleeping when I wrote that because it makes no sense whatsoever. More oil = Less fuel = More air = Lean mixture. I retract my previous statement and ban myself from posting past 1 a.m.

I'm no expert on the subject but I would say to install one or the other. I would say the plate ($35) over the Dyna Tek ($250). Since the objective of each item is mainly to alter timing, using one of the 2 mods would be sufficient. As I said i'm no expert but I would think that if he were to install both and andvance the timing on each, say 4 degrees, he would end up with an 8 degree advance. Somebody correct me if i'm wrong. Also, find out what he means by "already timed".

Who would vote no on this topic?? They're just gay scrooges. If someone wants to take the time to make a video thats gonna help people out, what's it gonna hurt. The video is obviously not going to benefit someone who tears their motor down everyday. It'll help the ones who come on here asking if it'll hurt their motor to run 33:1 instead of 32:1. (no offense if you're one of them people. everyone has to start somewhere)

That would be awesome if you took the time to make a video! It wouldn't have to go into great detail or anything...especially on the really basic parts. Just may be explain what you'll be doing, then you could go into more detail on the phases that are a little more complex or where there maybe be something more difficult to understand. Brilliant!!

Yeah that's alright. I got your PM but i'm not real handy with using all the features on here either. I was just curious to see how the candy blue arms looked on the red/black 03'. From what i've seen of them on ebay, the arms themselves look pretty nice. I eventually want to do a candy apple red/black color scheme so I might have to send mine out for PC when I get them.

The greater the ratio, the more lean the mixture. Think of it in the same sense as a carburetor: more air (gas) = lean.....more fuel (oil) = rich. (it's way too late for a decent analogy from me)

Just wondering if you got the pics yet. Are you putting them on the 03' in your sig? My bike is identical and I was thinkin about ordering some wickeds so I was just curious to see how they would look before I get em. Edit: That's weird. Before I posted that I swear there was a pic of an red/black 03' in your sig. Hmmmmm...... Maybe i'm just losing my mind. :shrug:

If you have the pro flow kit, just run it without the lid. Or if you really wanna keep the lid on, just buy an extra outherwear, cut a hole in your lid, and build that style lid yourself. Just seems like a dumb mod to waste $65 on. Save your money and get your head milled or something.

I would say if your jetted in right now, maybe go 1 or 2 sizes larger on the mains depending on the temp you're tuned in for. Before I did any mods I have run mine below 10 degrees without rejetting. Once you add more mods it reacts to changes more though.

I agree. You could check the chart out on Noss's website but I believe those numbers are for stock porting so whoever does your porting will probably be able to help you out. Edit: Sorry I didn't see the last post before I posted. Yeah I would go with the noss head. Without guys like Dave, we wouldn't have this site. He also gives a 10% discount to BHQ members.

Take a look at this site (jetting) It will tell you all you need to know about Banshee carbs.

Depends on your elevation. From sea level to 1000', it should be from 125-130 psi.

You can try checking this site too (http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html). It really helped me out in understanding everything to do with carb tuning. Edit: Sorry, i'm not sure how to ad a link

It depends on your elevation. If you were around 3000-4000' that would be normal. I think St. Louis is around 500' so you should be in the 125-130 range.