ok well i took it apart yesterday and i noticed my preasure plate rod was loose really loose so i tightend it and the noise didnt go away completely but it got alot quieter then my nephiew rode it just to c if the clutch was slipping and he brought it right back and the noise was louder again so today i took it apart again and the rod was loose again so this time i locktighted the damn thing hope it fixes it
well thanx for all the in put oh and the preasure plate only goes on 3 ways lining up the arrows but i did put it on a diff arrow this time again thanx, Ray
got looking at my kiker idler gear and it looks to me that its wore on the inside like its hitting on something well im trying to locate an electrick impack wrench to pull my clutch basket ill post more later
ok so i went and tore my clutch apart and no broken plates but i checked my clutch basket and there is a lil play i can grab the basket and move it a lil bit twisting and pulling
ok well ive had this problem b-4 and it just went away now its back and ive got a race on the 24th man this sux i just got it out of the shop for the same reason it didnt do it for id say a day then came back after i got it from shop it comes and goes not sure what it is ive replaced the kickstart idler gear and its still there it is hurting the performance of the bike when the noise is gone it runs awsome but when it comes back it looses a great deal of power and you can really hear the rattle right behind the kickstarter no its not the kicker its self HELP
well just wondering im gonna put some money in my bike and was wondering if i need it or not?ive got a 4 mill short stroke vitos crank with a set of 65 mm cheetah cubs 34mm pj's v force reeds ive got a D&D cool head with 18cc domes its got a 5 degree advanced timing key toomy t5's with bigger silencers my cubs just got the clean up port on them i dont know the comp of the cylinders well was wondering if needed the lock out or not got about 1200.00 to add to my bike input would b considered
thanx,Ray
ok well i have a cheetah cub set up 68 mm with a d&d cool head with 18cc domes i have v force reeds with a vitos 4 mill stroker short rod crank im running toomy t5's that have been modded by modded i mean my builder changed the the pipe going to the silencer made it bigger wiseco prolights with a 5 degree advanced timing lightend fly wheel ok well im running 150 mains and it runs strong tillup to 7/8 throttle then boggs looking to fix the prob. i c that every one is running bigger mains like 160's or 165's should i get new carbs or new pipes like shearers or cpis my builder told me to get some lectrons need help thanx and im running 34 mm pj's
well im not sure but the sounds back after i put it in the shop in june i got it back in october 1700.00 rode it twice and yep the sounds back really gettin upset with this money pit HELP PLEASE
heres what i get doing a search Sorry, an error occurred. If you are unsure on how to use a feature, or don't know why you got this error message, try looking through the help files for more informationoing a search
ok what some of you know i recently posted a problem with my new top end and crank well ruled out the crank but the pistons are wore and there super stock wich is shorter skirt making chatter the question i have is im going to put a cool head on it and new 66mm pistons prolites to b exact but im gonna spend some money to get the cylinders ported more that have already been ported by dyno with an agressive trail port or just get the cub set up i told my builder i could spend a grand but now im second guessing my thought and thinking of spending the extra cash now as to later it would just prolong the wait a couple more weeks i do ride some trails and the set up is in my sig i