350BANSHEE350

Still have asv lever with 450 master ?

the raptor rims set my backend almost 4 inches wider the fronts make it skinnier, pretty sure its same for the yfz

easy fix. my t5 were like that, i just got a rad hose that would slide over top and cut about a 2 inch length of it slid it on so now it touches the pipe, no problems at all over 100hrs

so coolant doesnt mix with/ go into the tranny when it comes out if you dont remove it to drain what left, atleast i do, some may not, i remove mine because i like to capture as much engine ice as possible cuz that shit aint cheap.

very simple. you'll need a new clutch cover gasket and wanter pump gasket, clutch plates and new tranny oil and coolant -drain tranny and coolant, remove the lowest rad hose and kick it over, just get most of it out. remove the water pump come, remove the actual metal cover after the plastic cover. let the last bit of coolant drain. remove the clutch cover and you'll see your clutch disc and baskets, remove the 6 bolts with springs in a criss cross pattern (install in criss cross too) and remove the plate and swap out the clutch, re-assemble and fill fluids. i think it took me 15-20 minutes after a few clutches.

calgary alberta ma fuckas! but savage knows that been ages since i have been on though shit! i wanna ride

been doing this for a while, works good, found out that idea with stock pipes

^ i like that idea of making your own, i might try it

you can set torque settings on impacts?

whats the best way or other way to hold the flywheel still when you put on/remove the flywheel nut without the flywheel holder tool? i dont know where i could get a flywheel holder withput having to pay deadly shipping to canada

took it to the electrical shop, turns out i ripped a coil on the stator, he had to put i under a menifying glass to tell, report back when i get it fired up.

yeah for sure , thanks savy ill talk to you soon.

man savy thanks for the offer i will definatly keep that in mind, i wanna take it to my buddies he is an old two stroke rider that owns the electric shop, and yes it is still apart... and the flywheel does still have magnetism if your wondering

shit i dont know what to do, savage, i dont have much money to buy shit to find out it might not be that

how fragile are the magnets in the flywheel, and how can you check if they are cracked, i never dropped it or anything but is that fragile, the pick-up has been moved from .015-.020 and still no spark, also where are the ground wires located? im really pissed that my 35 dollar plate was supposed to be easy and fast but now it doesnt work and i might be sinking more money that i dont have into it, ugghh

how could you tell if the flywheel magnets are cracked?, i did use a light mallet and tapped the end of the socket on the nut a little, i never dropped it and i used the flywheel puller from jeff, the stator grounds are located where? and the ground on the plate? i hooked up the 2 screws that hold the wire on the back of the plate and then the pickup screws, so total of 4 screws on the plate and 3 to hold the plate and 3 to hold the stator, now when i first went to torque on the flywheel nut there was a snap, i figured it was the nut breakin loose but it wasnt, maybe it was the magnets inside?

its at + 4 at 91 octane, i tried 0 same thing, no spark, it has to be it, i did nothiong else and theres no ripped wires and the pikup gap is perfect jus no spaark at all

no harm what so ever in the coil, its like a hair line nick where you could maybe fit a pin in but it must be screwing up the electricity, its to the coil clearly just not damaged, my aunt owns complete electric, its an electric motor shop, i could get them to fix the coating there for free maybe, would that cause the problem though, thanks

anybody? i am at a loss here, i just put on a adj. timing plate and now it wont run and i see there is a nick in the coating

okay so underneath the flywheel the stator has a plastic like coating on the copper coils, if there is a scratch or nick in it and the copper coil is showing will it make it not spark? mine has a nick, dont ask how it was an idiot move, now i have no spark and wont start obviously, can you just take this to an electric motor shop and get them to touch up the nick with the coating ?

.50 .100 .150 .200 . 250 what are you talking about?

yo what up guy, im from calgary too, i got t-5s pro design filter and mod airbox lid and timing plate, i have done multipul plug chops to get my bike perfect, i am running stock pilots, 260 mains and needle on third clip works great, i use amsoil dominator at 32:1 and i have never fouled a plug or anything.

thank you very much

all the gurus about motors please explain why porting shouldnt be done at home with a dremal and no 2-stroke porting tools maps or experiance. my friends dad thinks he can port his sons cr125 that me and my friend are rebuilding, i dont want him to fuck upp his sons (my friends) bike that we are working hard on. please tell me why you should and things that cant be done without the proper tools

premium fuel should be the minimum i would run in my shee. why 60:1?