BumpaD_Z28

With the 320's I was just starting to see a trace of a ring ... I think I'm going to throw some 340's in it and see if I can get something "significant" on the base of the plugs ... I have no idea why I'm in the 300+ range ??? THANKS again for your help !!! I really appreciate it as I'm about ready to put a white sheet over it and let it out of the back of the truck at freeway speeds ~DaVe

Compression is at 156 ... Just look at the pistons for detonation ? signs ? Elevation is ~5000 ft ~DaVe

Symptoms = NO power / getting my ass handed to me by 4 strokes I used to beat stock ... also just runs rough like it is cutting / "muddy" / no throttle response Pipers are TOOMEY's T5's I am staying in at WOT for a hell of a long time in 6th for the plug chops ... So maybe I order up some 330's/340's THANKS a TON ! ~DaVe

What is the rest of your setup ? Thanks ! ~DaVe

Thanks for the reply !!!! I'm still at a loss though as I was on 290's for the other 1.5 / 25+ trips to the dunes before the rebuild and it ran VERY good ... now it's not even back up to that level ... I keep thinkin' air leak but I've pressure tested it and it checks OK ... Any thought on what I could sell the BANSHEE for ? ~DaVe

Well after my 4th day at the St. A dunes this year the BANSHEE is still running like shit ... Wondering if anyone has a similar setup what jetting are you using ??? My setup: K&N pods Boysen reeds w/ spacers stock carbs (no money for bigger ones) Dune/Play ported cylinders ported cases NOSS cool head 19cc domes / 156 compression +4.5 timing on 93 octane mixed 40:1 with Klotz After this weekends plug chops with 310's and then 320's .. I still am not getting a very distinct tan line at the base of the plugs ... So I guess I'll be ordering some 330's / 340's ... I was running 290's on the stock bore for 25+ trips to the dunes and it ran AWESOME ... Does going to 330/340 seem like too BIG of a jump rich to anyone else ??? Any help greatly appreciated !!! ~DaVe

OTHER: I run HONDA (I know in a BANSHEE !!!) HP Trans Oil SAE 80w/85w I was told that was what was in it when I bought it 3 years ago, and that it worked well .. and I've used it ever since ... Easy to find at M/C shop and not incredibly expensive ... ~DaVe

I agree go with the NOSS head it is a beautiful piece and Mr. Noss is VERY helpful : http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm And VF3 reeds are also what was recommended to me even though I'm running BOYSEN's ... ~DaVe

Probably I bought one trued and welded from HJR for $130 shipped to the lower 48 ... ~DaVe

I don't see much wrong with a MONSTER theme ~DaVe

YES call Jeff He did the port work to my cases ... ~DaVe

The carb is a 600 CFM square bore ... http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL-1406 too bad it's not a 750 or I'd take it ~DaVe

NICE ! looks good ~DaVe

I have some 19 cc's that I might need to trade out .... ??? ~DaVe

Parts you will need ... (2) 6" sections of 1" SCH 40 PVC for STOCK intake size They sold me a 3' scrap piece at Standard Plumbing for .80$ (3') @ .80 $ (2) 1" SCH 40 PVC caps .... http://www.standardplumbing.com/index.html..._1_pvc_slip_cap (2) @ .59$ each = $1.18 (2) Fernco QC101 "JIM caps" for the STOCK cylinder exhaust outlets ... http://www.standardplumbing.com/index.html...o_1_1/2_jim_cap (2) @ 2.09$ each = $4.18 (1) Metal valve stem ... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1.20%22-LON...bayphotohosting eBay (1) @ 2.49 (1) pressure gauge ASHCROFT brand Part # 20W1005 H 02L 0-15psi ... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...alenotsupported eBay @ 9.95 + ~3.05 shipping = $13.00 (you actually get a "lot" of TWO gauges ... sell one to your friend for $7) I'm sure you can figure out the assembly ... drill the to PVC caps out, one for the valve stem, the other for the gauge (1/4 NPT thread, I drilled and tapped it). Primer and Cement Glue the caps with the gauge and valve stem onto the 6" pieces of PVC Use the Fernco "Jim caps" to cap the exhaust outlets (tighten then pretty tight) Fill CAREFULLY or with a SMALL air compressor to 6 PSI and watch / time the pressure / leak-down ~DaVe

Well I don't exactly know ... I ended up with 137 PSI on two different gauges with my 19 cc domes (check at 4500 ft Logan, UT) ... BUT my cylinders are dune ported and my cases are ported also .... I'm still trying to sort the engine out and get it running right, but I think I may end up with 18 cc or even 17 cc domes ... ~DaVe

I have the one in the eBay link I posted .. when I bought my 'SHEE it was +6 (way to much for a "stock" engine bike) so I bought the +2 to shorten it, and so it would fit in my pickup bed .... the +2 turns A LOT better than the +6 ever did that is the first thing I noticed .. the +2 doesn't seem to turn much different than the stocker, but makes hill climbs (steep hills) quite a bit easier ... All the stock stuff bolts right up, you will need a longer chain ( I bought a 520x116) and maybe a longer rear brake line ... ~DaVe

just go with the NOSS head it is a beautiful piece ... Just be careful about the 19 cc domes I'm at 4500 feet at home and 5000 feet at the dunes, and I didn't end up with enough compression ... ~DaVe

Why go stock get a +2 better performance and looks http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-4-6-Yamah...alenotsupported ~DaVe

I run 14/46 , BUT I'm on 22x12 8" rim hauler extremes ... ~DaVe

It has always shifted OK for me, BUT since the cases are split I am always looking for the "must do" upgrades ... I already have the CASCADE pancake bearing and shift star, and I'm going to run 6 "light" springs from Jeff at F.A.S.T. THANKS again ! ~DaVe

THANKS YOU ! I have a new SHIFT SHAFT HEADLESS SCREW, NUT and Lock plate on the way .... So with proper adjustment I think I'll leave the shaft alone ~DaVe

ANYONE ??? ~DaVe

Go with the NOSS head it is a beautiful piece !!! ~DaVe

Ok so it allows more movement of the shift SHAFT during upshifs, which causes the transmission too ... ??? I think we are after the same info 278 !!! ~DaVe