blaster668

The glow plugs will do fine IF they are working properly. Also, the block heater I showed is not a very good one, just so you got a better idea of it. There is a way to test glow plugs for resistance but I'm not sure of the procedure...maybe you can look it up online.

Usually it is an option added from the factory but aftermarket ones are available. Here is one from JC Whitney. You just plug it in to an extension cord and it heats the block, pretty simple. It's not something you just plug in, wait five seconds and go. It is basically meant to be left on all the time when the vehicle is parked and it's cold. http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product...101/TID-8043873

I picked it up, thanks for the heads up. I plan on parting most of it out, probably keep shocks and wheels.

Newer diesels are much better at starting than the old ones. Engine block heaters are often used as well.

No he means Bel-Ray Gearsaver. It's available at most motorcycle shops. I prefer to use atf fluid, but it needs changed often. I feel the clutch lasts longer and it shifts better. Regular motor oil is what Yamaha reccomends and it works ok. The 10w40 should be fine.

I would like some opinions on the differences in power outputs between cub 358cc, 392cc, and 421cc cylinders. I know the bigger bore and stroked motors will make more hp, but what type of power? Ie: does the 421 have a lot more bottom and a smoother powerband, but rev a little less than say a 358, or is the increased power mainly applied to the peak hp? This is assuming equal pipes, carbs, etc. What I'm trying to figure out is if it's really worth spending the extra money on a stroker crank and using more expensive blaster pistons.

pics of the 2-1 intake?

I'll give $80 shipped for the nerfs if you'll take paypal.

I'm interested in the nerfs. How much is shipping to 16342?

Who got it?

If it is still available, I'll take it. I prefer to use paypal, just give me payment instructions.

I'm also interested. Pics would be great, is this just for cylinders or does it come with pistons or anything? Any port work done to it? [email protected]

I'm actually looking for used aftermarket axles, but wanted to know if I can broaden my search any. I noticed on Durablues site they have some axles that list shee, raptor 660, blaster, and Kasea. But some others have different part numbers for different models.

Does anyone know if other Yamaha axles work on the banshee? I was thinking Blaster, raptor, and warriors might.

A friend had some on his Raptor 660. Never had any problems with them, seemed like pretty good arms.

I may be wrong about the newer TCS shocks using Elka bodies, but I know for a fact that the old style used Works bodies.PEP shocks also used Works bodies. I just looked at the TCS site and if I am remembering things correctly, they look different than a couple years ago. I still believe they used Elka bodies for a while when Elka first came out with atv shocks. That is not saying they are junk or anything...the performance of them was much better than Works.

I used to have a set on the Blaster I raced a few years ago. Mine were the older style with Works bodies, the new ones use Elka bodies. They were pretty decent shocks, but I think there are better out there. I have a good friend that races A class in MX and Cross Country and he demands great suspension and has ridden on everything except Axis and ishocks. He seems to really be able to give great feedback on the performance of suspension. So I'll give his opinion on the matter. He says that by far the best he's used are PEP ZPS. He says none of the other shocks compare in performance. However, he also says customer service at PEP sucks big time, and it takes forever to get the shocks. He says he will try Axis next, because of the service issue at PEP.

I'm not really too concerned about overall price, I can afford a decent suspension setup as well. What I mean by saying "economical" is that I don't want to just waste money on something that doesn't work. IE: it'd be stupid to spend an extra $1000 or more for a PV setup if it won't give me any benefits.

Can someone that has done this please give a measurement of total width on the front end using stock offset wheels? From outside of tire to outside of tire.

Ok guys, I'm looking into setting my banshee up. I plan on doing quite a bit of flat track racing, typically like 1/2 mile dirt ovals. Some backyard drag racing (want to humiliate all the guys on 450's that keep bragging), and still some trail riding as well (these are typically fast open trails). Of course, I'd like something that is fairly economical. I've been thinking of these options: 1. Ported stock cylinders, cool head, and bigger carbs, maybe a 4mm stroker. Pros: economical, seems to be a good all around combo, while still making plenty of power to smoke the 450's Cons: May not be enough to dominate at the flat tracks, and I'd really like to totally dominate the 450's 2. Cheetah Cub cylinders, cool head, carbs, not sure on bore and stroke yet (opinions wanted) Pros: Fast, still fairly economical, the strong hit sounds fun as heck Cons: I keep reading that they are terrible on trails. Do I need to worry about tranny and clutch issues? 3. Cheetah PV cylinders, again bore and stroke opinions wanted Pros: Fast, better for trails Cons: expensive, maybe not as fun as the cubs because of the more mellow hit Everyone, please give your opinions.

http://www.ctracing.com/blaster.htm I think CT is the only place that makes aftermarket cylinders, but 240's are common on the stock cylinders also. The Sonic cylinder is quite a bit better though, the port layouts are very similar to Honda 250R's and it uses a 250 intake and reed setup. Vitos and some other places may have cylinders also...I've been away from Blasters for a couple years. Another option is to build a liquid cooled power valve motor. The parts are available from Yamaha outside the US. I believe the bike that used this setup was an rd200 I could be wrong on that though. Some of the people that were building them were getting good results though.

Guys, I'm not joking about this....what it does is keep the two nuts together very well which is what is needed to keep them from getting loose. The only way to keep the stock style nuts tight is to lock them together. They will not turn if they are together. And, since when do your axle nuts get hot? Don't knock it if you haven't tried it. Believe me, it works! I raced MX on Blasters for years. They have the same axle nut setup as the banshee. Almost everyone at the races used the electical tape method.

Furniture polish like Pledge works really well. Gives a nice shine and actually repels dust rather than attract it like armor all and stuff.

Actually, the electrical tape trick works very well. Better than loctite in my opinion. Just tighten everything up then wrap the nuts in tape. And it's easier to get back apart.

Sounds to me like you are actually seizing it. What was the piston to cylinder wall clearance set at? If you didn't have any headwork done, I don't think you should have that kind of compression. I'm thinking, your clearances may be too tight. In my experience Wiseco pistons require a pretty strict break in period if you bore it on the tight side. Short heating and cooling cycles are how I do it. I have seized a few pistons during break in, by really getting on them too early.