Crazy05

180 hp???!!!! Go longer. Sounds like you need to take a ride over to PS for that bad mofo.

Trips rip. I would think at least a +12, +14 with 14p and hold on. On the flat drags much shorter with a bar.

I ended up with a +6. I wouldnt want any more for the dunes. Its a handful to turn but I can. Since I also want to hill shoot I started adding power till I feel I'm maxing out the +6. I am currently using 22x11x8 9p with 6lbs air and they make it even harder to turn but it works great on the hill. I'm makeing 70+ ponies to the wheels. Hope this helps

Can anyone tell me who makes this swinger. Its a +6 chromoly in this pic I added the triangle gussetts In this pic I added the 1/2" tube in the rear Another view And another

Cub= no power valve so yeah you should take them off your list. They did not replace the cheetah (momma). The cub was built as a cheaper way to get a cylinder with newer state of the art port maps and still be able to use your stock bolt ons like head intakes and pipes. With the momma cheetah you have to change everything. Also if you decide to go with a banshee based cylinder you can use a banshee cases as well and then the RZ trans fits right in them. You would have to modify the cases on the RZ as the base bolts for the cylinders are off. But the gears will fit the same. I only heard these things and dont know them to be factual so do some more research but Im pretty sure its accurate.

Look what I found for you on ebay Click here for RZ motor cheap

I dont know if a banshee motor would suit your needs for road racing. They dont have a power valve and if you want a lot of power you will experience a bakflip when the pipe comes on. You might want to look into the RZ 350 motor. Very similar to the banshee with better steetable gears in the trans and they have power valves. Powervalves raise and lower the exaust port depending on the rpm you are at. A banshee that makes a lot of power has the exaust port ported and raised. This makes for a very instant power band. Kind of like hitting Nitrous. But before that happens all you have is bog. This is fine with paddles in the dirt but on the street its not. The powervalve motor will give you a good controllable powerband for coming out of corners smooth with out spinning the rear tire out from under you or ending up on your back. You may be able to find someone to stroke it and port it for your needs. Even with the powervalves it takes a special talent to ride a fast one as they are still very powerbandy. You can tame them at the expense of top end power. Also they dont make a lot of tq like the big 4 strokes and really need a lighter chasis to shine. They are a HP motor which is great for drag racing but a handfull to finese. No you could also opt for a bigger banshee motor like the Cheetah with powervalves to get mor torque but it would need to be setup for smooth power band and still make 80 to 100 hp. You will not like roadracing a 150hp banshee if you want to win. A R6 will kill you just because of the driveability. But you will definately have more fun. I'm no expert and there may be people who know how to make a 2 stroke work well for your needs but you might want to visit some RZ forums and see what they are doing. Edit: They weigh about 90 lbs

I just tore my cover off to inspect my new basket install and filled her up with Mercon Vi. Whatcha think about that. Works good in my Mustang.

pull the carb to the side that wont idle and check the pilot jet. It may be clogged. Also remove the air srew all the way and dont lose the spring. Blow that out the replace the screw. When done try adjusting the air screw out more or in more till you get the highest idle. Count the yurns out it is. If it is less than one you need a bigger pilot. If it is more than 2 you need a smaller pilot. Good luck.

Put the bike in gear. That helps. I used a breaker bar and a hammer and I had to borrow that big ass socket. I just beat on it for about a minute and it finally gave in. If you have access to an impact that would be easier.

One of my riding partners has an 06 with the T6's. He has a cool head with 160 lbs kicking compression, K&N with some billet intake and a aftermarket CDI. His bike runs really good for no porting. For bolt ons only the T6 is the way to go. For duning with porting get the T5 or CPI's or my favorite the Shearers. Shearers are more of a peaky pipe and needs to ridden in the higher rpms. But its a banshee. Let her scream. I think the old toomeys were the best back then but I dont think they can keep up with the CPI or shearers.

Kiehin Air Striker. Kiehins are very easy to work on and change jets. You will need to tune that beast when its done and you will be much happier. Every Mikuni I have ever seen drips gas. If you dont shut the gas off you come back to a puddle. My buddy just this weekend parked his banshee facing up hill and the mikunis filled his airbox with fuel. I'm sure there is a fix for it but the new shutoff needles on the mikunis dont seem to last long. I love my AS. Gonna buy 2 more.

I think you would be better off cleaning your pipes off the bike. I was thinking the same thing when mine was down for the rebuild. Noticed some carbon and started asking around how to get it out of the pipes. I was thinking of filling them with oven cleaner or sandblasting them or both. Carbon build up is supposed to hurt performance and if you cant get it out some say replace the pipes.

A freind of mine called me when he saw the article and told me all about it. The motor is supposed to be half of an R1. They are playing with 3 power levels, the highest I think will be 80 out of the box with the potential for a lot more. R1's make 175 hp or somewhere there abouts. The suspension will finally be upgraded like the raptors and it will ne injected. I love my banshee but I also like the what they are doing with this. If they do make it and its badd ass this is what people will be saying. The only 4 stroke that can give us banshees hell is a 4 stroke banshee. That statement doent include you crazy dragster types of course. CC for CC a 2 stroke will always have more potential for power. Also the extra cylinder might make it heavy enough to counter the extra HP and make it handle bad. SSL

I thought you needed to open the jets 50% bigger? Example: if you jet is a 100 you need a 150. Also, dont you have to open the pilot also and what about the needle?

Its not hard at all but will take a while. You will need tools of course.:-) Your going to have to remove a few things before you can get the cover off. They will be obvious when you start. Those heavy duty springs are going to make pulling the clutch a lot harder. If your not all ported and makining over 60 hp, you dont need that much spring. I run 3 heavy springs and 3 stock springs and my clutch is harder than I would like it. Just make sure you stagger them. Where your clutch cable hooks up to the case of the motor under the carb is a little triangle thingy cast into the motor. You have to line up the triangles when adjusting after free play is pulled out. Just pull the clutch linkage till the play is gone to check alinment then adjust then check again till its right. The way you make this adjustment is the nut and bolt thingy that is sticking out of the midlle of your pressure plate. You loosen the nut adjust the bolt and retighten the nut. You will see what I'm talking about when your in there. The cover gasket can be reused if carefully removed. A thin scraper works good and seperate it frome the motor side. If you tear it replace it. Be very patient and remember the location of all the parts when removing. Check your clutch basket for grooves where the clutches make contact to it and the center hub. If it is grooved you will want to replace it with a billet one. Also grab the big gear that is attached to the back of basket and hold it and try to turn the basket both ways. There should be no play. If ther is just a little you can use it but just alittle. I would just put a billet basket in there while you got it apart. You can get 1 for 180.00 but you will have to have a mechanic seperate your gear from the old basket. Same goes for the hub. If it is grooved where the clutch steels make contact you should replace it.

What is the LL in 100LL. AV gas? Do I have to buy that at an airport? how much is it per gallon

I only want to run good gas. The lowest VP has is 110. Or is it. Pump gas is not trustworthy. Or is it. Is there race gas available at 100 octane? That is all I need for my setup, I think.

i would think you need to get the pipe into the silencer pipe..

Because pump gas is all over the place on additives and octane what is the best way to get 100 octane reliably? I have 140 kicking with 6 or 7 timing and 198 exaust. I want to run cheapper stuff than the VP 110 that is costing me 10.00 per gallon but want to know my octane and additves and whatever will always be consistant. I live in the SD area and only ride Glamis. 76, shell, Chevron or does VP make a race gas with less octane. Thanks.

Sorry for not rplying sooner. Went to Glamis. Fat means rich or in your case the ring looked just a little smaller than the 2-3mm i heard it should be. The lower pic looks leaner than the upper pic. I had to quit doing chops cuz is was time to go riding so I opted for another way to jet my bike. I found this method in many hours of research and it worked for me. I knew I was lean and that is bad so I bought jet sizes bigger. In my case I have 1 carb with a 185 jet that showed lean on the first chop. I put a 190 and the chop still showed lean. I didnt have time to do any more chops so I put a 200 and road it. It ran better. I put a 205 and it bogged and sputtered bad. Very bad. Veery noticable. I went back to the 200 and am confident it is good. Keep adding fuel till it runs like shit and go back one size and you will be on the safe side. go back 2 sizes and you will be optimum. I'll do a chop when I find some time. I still havnt seen a good pic of what a properly jetted chop looks like.

That doesnt look like 2 mm. Looks like 1mm

I would run Alky or lower the compression. After 160 lbs you are are not going to get any more horse power on gas, so Ive heard.

They look like they are part stamped, part hand made. I would just get some proven pipes for your aplication.

OK, so it may not be maketable, so what. Devise a cheap fix and help a brotha out. Size of cap and where to put it. Shouldnt take to much for someone with your expert knowledge in the subject. As shitty as the spark is in our bikes, it seems to hold up. If you know a way to make it last, Ive heard they fail a lot, then a fix for longevity would be a great contribution to the community. If you want to keep it hush, then PM me with the fix. I will not say a word to anyone till you get your patent. The the word will be to call you. My bike is fairly new and dont want any issues that can be avoided.