Crazy05

How many hours on the crank? What kind of mods were on the motor. Have you measured the side to side clearance on the rods. Thanks

I was running low 10's on a KZ 750 with only cams and and a pipe 24 years ago. I only weighed 135 then. I put on a whole ten pounds sinse then but I would bet any one on any day that I could take a bone stock 175 hp R1 deep into the 9's within 5 passes. And I havent rode on 2 wheels in over 15 years.

hand made shearers small bore inframe. They work alot better than they look. 400 and they are yours.

OK, whole bikes arent worfh diddly here. I will part it out but not for a couple of weeks so if your interestd I will list it back up when I'm done moving. That is unless my financial situation changes and I can afford to keep it.

OOps forgot price and phone# 4500.00 619-201-1230

With much regret I have decided to sell my bike. Trying to get my business going in a new area and am broke. Whole or part. 05 banshee bought in June of 05 40 over jugs ported by Kevin. 1 step below full drag port. Wiseco lites True and welded hot rod crank +6 swinger unknown brand. Cut plastics barf bottle mounted up front 1 into 2 tubular (not trinity) intake 35 Air Striker Keihn 72 rollout 9 paddle Small razors on front Handmade Shearer small bore inframes Crappy chrome but they scream Milled and reworked head by kevin. Some pitting from last gernade but still functional and fast Bike is a sleeper and has beat up on cubs. Not the fully ported ones. Made 65 hp to ground before Kevin ported it Havent dynoed it but it feels like at leat 15 more so I gonna say 75+ to the ground probably 80 I want to try and sell it whole before I part it out. So lets hold off on the questions and replys on the part out till I see what it will get me whole. See pic below. 1to 10...8.5 See pic below

I would agree. So these should be listed as stamped. (mass produced) Brand unknown.

what does non stamped mean?

I have that exact intakes on my bike and they work great. way better than the trinity

How is a crank trued and can it be done at home. I already know about the welding. Thanks

So I read thru this entire post waiting only to see if the dude got his free banshee's. Well did he?

Your comment was rude and uncalled for. If you want info on the specs just ask ass. Who are you to call someone an idiot. I too have some of Kevin port work and for stock jugs and head it hauls the mail. I dynoed at 60 to the wheels before the porting and bikes I could barely beat before are getting flat left in the dust. Nice Jugs

Do these come trued and welded. If not welded do they need to be for 80 HP to the tires. I'm shopping for a crank and see thes for reasonable prices and am wondering how good they are.

Hmmm free dyno. Must be nice. What are the odds on me bringing my bike for a reduced rate dyno pull or tune. :biggrin: Just start rich and work your way down. Easy quick pulls with an eye on the a/f and you will be fine if the motor is assembled right.

Wow. That was fun to read. Just checked out the bike on Ebay. Plastic looks like it was in a serious rollover. Not trying to flame anyone and caps dont bother me. Just curious how all the stress marks got on the plastics and if anything else was stressed.

If you have coolant in the cylinders, fix that first. Do a compression test. Borrow or buy a tester. Thouroly clean all the jets in the carb, Tune the idle 1rst. After adjusting the air screw if your more than 2 turns out put a smaller pilot less than 1 bigger pilot. Ride it easy and see how the throttle response is from 1/4 to 3/4. Move the clip one adjustment up or dow and ride it easy. If it feels better move it one more. but if it feels worse, go the other way. get that as good as you can then do a brief WFO run and add bigger jets till it runs bad then back off 1 or 2 steps. Now you get to play with the needles. I havent got to that yet as my bike ran good with the needle thats in it. But from what Ive read, you want to make one change at a time and ride it. Its a pain and takes lots of patience. Needles have 3 adjustments. Length, diameter and taper. A carb with the proper length needle will ride on the middle (3rd) clip position or 4th position from the top. So Keihin says. diameter detemines a/f ratio in the mid range. 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. Thinner is richer, thicker is leaner. Taper determines the same but different. If when you lean at 1/4 but rich at 3/4 or visaversa you need to change the taper. Start with a CEL needle and work from there. That seems to be a common choice with your motor. Be patient and take the time to get it tuned right and you will be glad you did.

Until I learn the right way, I chose a 6". I added tire untill I could launch WFO in 2nd sitting on the front of the seat with no wheelie. If i slide back just a littlle it comes up. This way I know I have as much tire as possible for traction at the top of the hill. I first adjust my gear ratio for max speed in 4th. Since you are dealing with almost 3 times the power you will be able to leave the hole with a taller gear and it can get out of control in a hurry. I would start long and work your way down. For the hill that is. I would love to have the funds to do what you are doing. Good luck.

Another thing you can do is attend some of the drags that the top contenders race and see whos fast and what they are using. Take your duner and and enter some races and look around. Spy some pics and measurements. On the hills with bumps might be a different story. Long enough to keep it from flipping over and able to glide thru the bumps. A freind of mine has 95 rwhp 12p 12" and it still comes up on him sometimes. You will definately need to stretch the front also.

Thats why you need to talk to the experts. They will tell you exactly what you need for your 150 hp for the drags and the hill. And it will work right the first time. We are all just giving you bits and peices that we think we heard from a guy that heard from a guy that read it on some forum. If your gonna have 180 ponies, you might as well have all the chasis and swinger and shit to get the most out of it and to have it leave the dig straight and stay stable up top.

Had a hack port before that only made 55 to 60 to the wheels. Piston let go so I tried another porter. Kevin Herr in Encinitas CA. He gave me a very aggresive dune port. So far I am very pleased. The bike pulls harder and seems to be going much faster at the top of the hill (Olds). Raced a Banshee with nitrous and oofs and got beat. I was winning till he hit the squeeze tho. Raced a 400 cub and won. Raced him again and won. Lined up again and bogged the hole shot. But stayed a couple bikes back all the way up the hill. Didnt gain on him and he didnt walk. To me that means we had the same hp. I have heard a 68 cub is a 392 and is called a 400 when on a stock stroke so that is what I am going to assume it was. I have also heard they make 70 hp out of the box and 80 ported by your average porter. He said it was a stage 4 trininty. I would like to know what those make to give me an idea of what I'm making untill I can afford to get her dynoed. I had a blast with the new motor and everyone that saw it said it hauled the mail for a stock stroke and bore 350. Its bored 2 over but that doesnt count for much. 64.5 or something. Not bad for 1 carb. Cant wait to get another.

If you can test at the track with the clock that would be the best. Bigger front sprockets are suppossed to be better. Bring lots of sprockets and let the clock tell you what to run. So many variables. Just find what your motor likes. Different motor builders make different power so just saying drag port and tires sizes will only get you in the ballpark. Chasis, body weight, tire rollout, and I'm sure many other variables are gonna force you to just try differnt ratios untill you get one you like.

Do a compression test on your bike. Try to get 150 lbs kicking. I think 20 cc domes at sealevel will get you that. Advance your timing to +4 or +6 and run 50% 110 and 50% 91 octane. Check the jetting and make sure you are not to rich or too lean. I add bigger jets til it falls on its face then back off a couple sizes. Traction. Get good tires. I dont know what works in the dirt but if you go sand get some Skat Trak Haulers. 22x11x8 8 paddle. Put a bigger sprocket on the back. Like a 43 and if you cant pull it put even a bigger one on. Gear ratio to tire diameter is important. The best thing you can do though is send those cylinders and head to a professional. You will never get beat on the sand by a 4 poke again except maybe the all out pro draggers. Sand needs longer swingarm with built motor and more paddle. I dont ride hardpan (dirt) so cant help you there.

GT Performance I would also call around some other places too like K&T A&S Ohton and whoever else you can think of.

They dont care for duners as much but they are very helpful. They helped me out a lot. Just be patient and persistant. Now that your moving up to the big time they will probably much more receptive. I think if you wnat to get top of the line stuff they are mostly saying GT performance I think. He builds nice swingers that are designed to put the power down. I'll go see if I can get a link.

Its hard to see in the pics and my digi sucks but it tubular with half tube gussets. The bottom gussets seem like they were oval to start.