RagunCajun

video the race post it up.

SOLD

I think for now, your currect pipes are your best option. You need port work with durations meant to go with CPI's to benefit the most from them.

pingle add 3hp so it's ok. Yeah i spayed soapy water around all 10 nuts on the head, base gaskets and it was fine.

and we here we go http://rc.superdave2u.com/MyBanshee/leak%2...1%205-25-09.JPG

The pressure plate goes between the two washers. Adjust clutch and done. http://rc.superdave2u.com/MyBanshee/pancak...g%205-12-09.JPG

If that breather hose by the water pump is so important, then why do aftermarket covers like the ones for lockups dis guard that?

I'd recommend a slingshot. Two reasons for it, and one not for it. I like mine because i can run 3HD/3 regular springs. Makes the clutch pull VERY nice as compared to 6hd. And it's cheaper than the other kind because you can run it under the stock cover. Only con is you have to put the bike on it's side whenever you need to remove the pressure plate. BTW the regular pancake bearings wont work in the vito's style. Not sure about the other kind. You need the Vito's thrust bearing or the thing that Cascade makes. I still have my old clutch in there. It slipped like crazy(remember my vid). Then i slapped the lockup and it doesnt slip at all!

Are those carbs the same as 30oko's, if so check out my thread. I'm going through the same thing. I'm awaiting on a pingle to see if it clears things up.

Master of Faster I drilled two extra holes in each carb even with the stock ones. It didnt help. Seems i will have to try taking one float out or/and waiting for my pingle to come in next week. Thanks anyways. The bike still cuts out and idles high after a run.

Thank you for allowing me to use it! Again, thanks for messer007 and Climb Any Hill for letting me use their pictures. Offered both the t-shirt if i won but both declined. Super cool of those two! Thanks loco for putting this on and good job to all who entered and voted!

I have one pancake bearing for sale. Comes with what you see in the picture. It's easy to bolt in and ready to install. NO instructions come with it. Price is $25 firm shipped. US Only. Paypal only. Tracking number will be sent as soon as i get back from the post office. Will be mailed either tomorrow morning before the post office closes or Tuesday since i think the post office is closed for Memorial Day. http://rc.superdave2u.com/MyBanshee/pancak...g%205-12-09.JPG

With a pancake bearing in place, you dont use the arrows ontop the case. It wont work because the bearing and washer adds about 1/8" to everything in there therefor throwing off the arrows. You just screw the adjuster all the way in till it hits the ball making everything in there tight then back off 1/4 turn. Just make sure have a tiny bit of play so everything in there isnt always touching.

Id have to have my carb in my hand to see how it works to understand i guess. Anways i have a pingle on the way so i will see if that works. Ill update next week when it comes in.

The main controls 3/4-WOT i believe. He said no power until 1/2 throttle. air screw and pilot is idle to 1/4. 1/4-3/4 is needle and needle clip position.

I see one hole through and through. Are you counting one hole on each side as two total showing in the picture? Many people are telling me to get a pingle valve. You ever tried that first? What about a fuel pump also? And what do you mean by seat surface?

Yup pretty sure it's a fuel issue. It's like after WOT for long enough, it just runs out of fuel. Gona check the floats etc one thing at a time. Gotta knock things out one by one. It's a royal pain in the ass but it's something simple, always is.

After rerunning my lines twice this morning i decided to use zip ties on my "T". As i was zip tieing all three lines on it, the bubbles started to disappear. Yeah wow. That easy. Then i put two more on the petcock. No more bubbles. My resi filter on my petcock was pretty filthy too. But i think it was all the damn leaks from lack of a seal on the "T". Every bit helps/hurts. Thanks guys. It didnt solve my cutting out at WOT but at least i know it isnt a bubbleproblem

Just a heads up, this will not work on the slingshot style lockup from vitos. That is the OEM stuff in the picture it goes on. That is not called the pushrod. The pushrod is what hits the clutch actuator. The pushrod hits the ball, the ball hits that. free bump!

thanks for the help guys! What size and brand did you use dragbanshee? To update yall, i just went put a new vynal line from the T to the carb that was leaking. I went get the cheap 28 cent a foot vynal line from the hardware store. I then tightened the hell out of the hose clamp. No leak at all. Hopefully that takes care of my bubbles in my line. http://rc.superdave2u.com/MyBanshee/fuel%2...1%205-20-09.JPG My bike kinda cuts out at WOT after a few seconds but im pretty sure that's why. Can a dirty screen/filter in the tank cause air bubbles in the line? I noticed my fuel isnt flowing to well right now. Probably cuz im so damn low from all the fuel leaking. Ill go mix up 3 gallons in the morning and see what i can do. Clean it etc.

100% positive that's where it's leaking or should i say pooring out of. It has to be the fuel tubing im using. I will have to find some smaller tubing. I guess i will go to the hardware store tomorrow morning and get some. But then if it's too small, it wont fit on the "T". Hopefully heating it with a hair dryer will do the trick. There's a chance that tubing is split so ill replace it tomorrow morning. Either way i have to try smaller tubing. Grrrr.

Fuel is still leaking from one the carbs. I guess ill have to try to find some smaller tubing. Guys the hose clamps arent working too well. One carb it works but the other i open the petcock and fuel pours out from the circled area in my OP.

I been noticing fuel leaking every so often from where the fuel tubing meets the carb. The little brass outlet. It seems the "nipple" or bulge could be a tad bigger because it's not sealing up as well as the stock carbs did. Even with the fuel line clamp on there it still leaks. I just put a new piece of tubing some RTV gasket maker on one(left side) giving me problems. I heated the line up with a hair dryer before and after to help the line flex and settle. That will hopefully seal it up nice and good. Anyone else had this issue? If so, how did you fix it? The fuel line is just the regular one from FAST. Worked fine in the past. It's just that these carbs seem to have a slightly smaller bulge where the fuel line connects. picture for reference: http://rc.superdave2u.com/MyBanshee/banshe...b%20problem.gif

2003LimitedBanshee bought something from me. Paid quick.

They are rated to about 140-150F. It could burst after a while. I just went buy this yesterday and come to find out, tons of people told me to get rid of it. Imagine, riding your bike it burst and you burn your leg and crotch. Not a pretty sight!