RagunCajun

I see a brand for around $90 and comes with silicone radiator hoses. But unsure on how good the hoses are.

Make sure your float level is adjusted right on both carbs. If it isnt, the bike will run fine until one bowl(or both) is dry then it will feel flat as hell on top end.

Why you chose a 450 motor from the dirtbike in stead of the quad?

If you have time, dont send off the motor for simple things. You can bolt on a modded shift star

I have an override in my play bike. I forgot with a lockup its hard to shift without an over ride. my mistake

I run a sling shot, best part is you can run them under the stock cover. My clutch probably from 01 couldnt handle the 4mil's power. The slingshot held it and it never slipped again lol. Ran 3 years like that too.

I prefer light springs with a lockup

Great story and nice bike. I think you would better benefit from a better motor set up. Perhaps a little 4mil or 10mil and a play port from a good builder. A high strung dune/drag port with some crap FMF's probably leaves some performance to be desired. Although, adding more power may hurt traction on trails. But a nice and smooth hitting stroked set up would be nice. Getting rid of the extended swing arm will aid handling as well.

that's reassuring, i have a chariot head on the way. Getting rid of my beat up ole noss for it.

port the juggs and let her eat

just build a 10mil cub or 10mill serval. You can even use your stock cases. talk to a good shop and they will tell you everything you need to buy and most likely sell it to you. Good luck getting a stockish chassis/suspension to hook up though. Once you add some major power, the clutch wont hold, the bike wont shift and it wont hook. It cost time and money to fix all of that.

nevermind, found them new for $6 more. free bump.

Ill take the light covers.

Nerf bars with heal guards would help too. Slipping off the front of the peg is possible.

If any drag motor trying to set a record only last one pass, that's enough. It's about the time slip, not durability. Anyway, any videos of those runs?

Just put the stock cross over in there. Look on an OEM parts site and you will see what goes in there stock. Some plug them up, how, i dont know. I run the stock cross over.

There you go sir. Getting rid of it is in your best interest. Good luck with your choice.

looks like this? http://www.moto-man.com/assets/images/prodesignintakemanifold_thumbnail.jpg http://www.procycledepot.com/uimages/p_images/moose_racing/moose_racing_banshee_boost_bottle.jpg big silver thingy on the top of the intakes?

If by power bottle, you mean boost bottle, get rid of it. It does nothing but bounce and put stress on the rubber intakes.

In any case, buy the better product so you ensure a better chance of it working right. Just save longer.

I mean does. It was a typo. Thanks

For speed you need more rpm or gearing. It takes different port work and/or pipes for more rpm. For a smaller sprocket ratio, it takes. More power to pull it. TQ can be done by stroking it more or other methods. A better or different fuel type is a easy way to get more power too. You can advance timing and add more compression with more octane. More compression doesnt cause more stress on the bottom end but the rewards are good.

Sounds like a fun bike with those plans.

You got your banshee? Pics if so!

small bore in frame CPI's come in stamped and unstamped. Mine are unstamped.