RagunCajun

Just enjoy it and ride it as is. Save some coin for when she needs a rebuild. Then after you have those fund saved, maybe suspension and wider a-arms to have a more comfortable ride. I regret putting tons of money into power and leaving stock suspension years ago.

Id prob only sell it for $7000 or whatever it cost to replace new. Otherwise, I'll. Just finish the bike when work picks back up. It will sit until then. It's not like it will go bad.

I've got a 10mil super serval. It cost a good bit more than the average 4mil 421 serval. Call up redline and you can see what's up with either build. For what I do, a 421 would of been fine. Not sure why I went with the big Mota. I still haven't finished my build yet.

oh you are trolling. im done feeding you.

OP, please make an effort to try to post with better grammar. If English is not your first language, then i understand you cant. If it is, you are doing it on purpose. Stop using slang if you know how to speak/type. Now back on topic. All i keep seeing is rwhp numbers posted by you. You need to focus on power delivery. Adding 5-10 hp of peak power might kill power else where where you want it. Talk to a good builder and tell him what are your goals and what he can do help meet your goals. I personally dont understand nor ride enough bikes to understand how curve curves feel on any said pipe. So i had to talk to a builder and tell him what i wanted. That and with guidance from these forums, ill sure ill be happy once i finish my build.

the detectable is more than the bike was worth. 12 year old dirtbikes arent worth much, Lesson learned though.

I had an gift a couple weeks before xmas. My banshee was treated out of the kindness of someone's heart to more garage space. Someone broke into my parents shed, moved stuff, and stole my 02 yz250. Good times. Irony of this is we are currently moving into our new home with security system, cameras etc. On the bright side, I am very thankful i am waiting until the next few months to finish my 532 super serval redline build. The rolling chassis was right near the dirtbike. I am pretty sure if i had a $10k+ banshee on side of it, it would be gone too. I also planned to leave my banshee at my parents house from time to time since they have a lot of land. So now i wont be doing this because i look at this as a wake up call.

If it bogs, drop a gear next time or change sprockets to get it to launch in 2nd.

i got my f150's 2v MMR(modular mustang racing) heads ported by a good shop across the country. I did this depsite people on forums bashing the vendor and how they lost money etc. I researched as best i could and made a decision with that knowledge. I didnt want to go aftermarket. Due to my ignorance, i paid a knowledgeable shop to do the work when i didnt know my ass from a hole in the ground. I rather spend more and have it done right. Otherwise, the only thing i could do is come on a forum and cry about how i wasted money due to my lack of knowledge when things go wrong. Worked out great for me. Keep in mind i went with a cookie cutter combo for my truck that is well known. I love it. I did the same for my banshee's engine. Sure did cost a lot, but the engine did great on the dyno and im looking forward to finishing the build in 2-4 months.

Use a dremel to cut a flat slot in it. THEN use the impact driver again to get it out. You can get impact drivers from sears and napa. They are cheap for what they can do and how much frustration they prevent.

both mine are stipped as well. I was just going to use some sort of epoxy.

Mexican juice

That's great to hear griff. It seems fireball racing makes steering stems and swing arms. Ill have to give them a call and order those items as well. I'm sure my steering stem bearings/bushing(whatever is it) is corroded into pieces by now. Who sells +3+1 stainless brake lines? ill want some for my swing arm too.

Thank you can. Yes the motor was made to be a tractor and not have to Rev the piss out of it. I've only ridden 4mil cub as cast on race fuel about 4 years ago. Thats the only other banshee more powerful than mine I've ridden. So I dont know what to expect from power delivery. I hated the power delivery on that cub though. I dont mind buying a +4 swing arm but I want to make sure I can still do donuts and slide the rear sound at will. Will a +4 be too long for that? Also what type of tires that will hook best meanwhile letting me slide around. I dont mind if I have to cut every other row off like my Knarlys. Id assume id need a 22" maybe Ambush? I'm going to go with the elka rear shock as well as the front. All stage 3. Looks like BVC has a sale going on. I still have my pro wedge 2's for when I want to hook hard and flip over backwards. I will see how the bike shifts. I will take weight off if needed. However, if it gets too bad I'll put my dune able override back in. Hopefully I can shift slow and it will be fine. I predict no traction either way. Hopefully this motor wasn't overkill lol. Id went bigger if I didn't have to get matoon cases. Bigger is better right I'm not sure what gearing I'll need. I'm going to put a 16t front and get a few rear sprockets. I've learned with my old flotek engine, it's just something you have to play around with. It struggled with 15/41 on pro wedges in 5th but was perfection in a drag race 1-4 which is exactly how I set it up. It took time though.

who sells the chain roller in post 208?

Why call Dennis at Packard?

Looks like i will be going with stage 3 elkas instead. Cheaper and it wont be over kill for what i do. flat cane field roads etc is mostly what i do. Looks like they are about 1500. That's nearly 900-$1000 savings over the fox shocks i want. I can use that else where easily.

ordered some fireball racing long travel a-arms. I'm reading through the chariot bearing support thread. So much drama...

I why do I need a metal stator cover, case saver and that particular brand which you filled to mention. It also looks to have a different chain guide. Maybe a foot peg too unless it's just a stock one polished. The suppose thing for the front sprocket shaft is on my list of things to get. However i lost the bookmark on where to buy it and why. I believe it's recommend for 10mil and up.

Ok then. Who here has had the rear shock reworked and also has tried out an aftermarket rear shock. If I'm better off with an elka or Fox rear, let me know. Personal experience only.

I meant remote resi. My mistake. So who do i send my stock rear shock to?

Shearers for a trail engine? No.

My phone didn't save the banshee as my bike. No wonder it let me view the shock for mini. Thank you. I just find no remote resi looks cleaner. I'm all for getting a rear stock shock reworked. Who has quick turn around and great customer service?

It's a 10mil super thats ported. I just told him how i ride and what i wanted. I dont understand how power curves related to drive ability so discussing that was irrelevant. The only rear shock i see with no remote resi is this: http://atvgalaxy.com/atvs/suspension/shocks/fox-shocks-float-mxr.html Anyone have a recommendation? Keep in mine, i'm coming from stock suspension so id assume that cheaper shock would be fine. The next level seems to be this http://atvgalaxy.com/atvs/suspension/shocks/fox-shocks-podium-x-remote-rear.html but that comes with a remote resi. Which a-arms are people liking these days? I need something that doesnt squeak after some use. I dont need it to be fully adjustable seeing how i have stock stuff now.

thanks but i'm not posting just the engine pics. It's nothing fancy. It's not powder coated due to fear of keeping heat it. And no polish nor painted jugs/cases. I'm still running the stock covers due to budget and fuction over looks reasons. My lockup is a slingshot so it fits under the stock cover.