wrecker03

I'm having a brain fart so I need to ask. I have Toomey T5's. The viton O-ring that goes from the exhaust side of the cylinder to the pipe. Should the O-ring fit inside the pipe, or on the outside of the exhaust on the cylinder and the pipe meet up to it?

Looking for a flywheel. Anyone have one they're looking to get rid of?

FYI if you have T5's your going to need the 2 1/2" (PN 9192) sparky. I measured the openings on mine at 2 7/16" I just picked up 2 of them for my pipes and they fit just a little big and tighten down well. I had to scour the internet to find a decent deal. I got one off Flea-bay for $50 shipped and the other from motorcycleproshop.com for $68 shipped.

Ditto the above. He did my top end and I can't complain 1 bit. Great guy to work with, and the price is right.

Well here are some pictrues of what happens to a new top end when too much air gets in the system. http://s186.photobucket.com/albums/x228/wr...=1180394511.pbw I have everything torn down and split the cases so I can clean out all the aluminum shrapnal. As you can see the left hand is perfect but now I'm going to see if I can get the right side either honed, or sleeved to match the left. Question - When you go to a billet intake, do you have to use spacers also? I'm going to eliminate this from happening again and go to a billet intake and get rid of the crossover.

Anyone have site links, or product links, so I can get pricing and shipping info and see what I'd be buying?

I always say get the best equipment you can afford. But....with the amount of riding I do I can't justify spending the $200+ on boots that would mostly be sitting. I picked up a pair of MSR VX-1 ATV boots and I'm pretty happy with them, although maybe the regular sole rather than the lugged ATV sole would be the only change until I get used to them. They were $89.99 at Rocky Mountain. I also considered the A.R.C. Corona 07 and that runs $79.99. The MSR's work fine for me, and their comfortable.

Do you have the links to their sites?

Since my right side stock intake has to be replaced, I'm thinking that I might goto something different and eliminate the ports for the cross over tube, or boost bottle and goto a billet intake. My local shop has them for $119. The stock ones are around $90 for the extra $20 or $30 bucks I eliminate the cross over. Any suggestions or comments?

Like I said, common sense was telling me the same thing but that's why I came to the pro's. Well I guess my holiday weekend is planned.

Got out to break in the fresh top end. Took 2 short rides. The first for about 10 minutes, just long enough to get hot then let it cool completly. Did the same a second time, never getting over 3/4 throttle.The Shee ran flawlessly, the jetting perfect. I was feeling pretty good so we hit the trails for a short ride. I took it easy but I got on it a little bit here and there and on the way back I started loosing power, let off the throttle and it died. After we towed it back to camp and let it cool enough to work on we pull the plugs. The left side was a perfect co-co brown, the right side had some aluminum on it so we knew it wouldn't be good. Pulled the head and the left side was perfect, the right side piston was seized and detonated. After a little investigation we found a tear in the boot between the carb and reed cage. The only thing we can figure is that there was too much air on that side and it got way too lean and boom. We were also a little puzzled by the coolant. There didn't seem to be any so again, it must've got so hot it boiled over what there was. Well, I have to get it back to running condition. I know I have to pull the motor. I have a couple of questions for the experienced guys. 1. Do I HAVE to split the cases? I was told that I can pull the motor and tear down the 1 side and clean it out possibly using a gas / oil mix in a spray bottle by basically slowly rinsing it out and listening for anything that sounds like it doesn't belong in there. They said to try this before tearing everything apart. 2. Do both cylinders need to have the same size bore? In my mind common sense says yes but again I was told no they don't that you can get away with a different size on each side. I'm hoping for just having to hone the cylinder. It looks bad but I won't know for sure till I get in there and start cleaning it out. Worst case is that I have to bore it out and I wonder if I can do one or do I have to do both?

While I had it torn down rebuilding the top end I looked around and everything looked straight. I didn't get too carried away but nothing like chipped or missing paint jumped out at me. Everything else lines up within reason, it's just the tank cover and the rad cover that don't line up worth a s--t. I read in other posts that people were not happy with Maier plastics because the fits sucked and it made me wonder if this actually has Maier plastic on the tank and rad.

O.k. I know the Banshee hasn't changed much in 20 years but does anyone know the answer to this. There are 2 holes on the top of the tank cover, they don't even come close to the holes they are supposed to screw into. My questions are, could it be an aftermarket tank cover or 2 could they be stock just from a year that it changed? The fit of my tank cover and rad cover are horrible. The front of the rad cover doesn't even fit into the where it should on the front fender. I'm just curious if anyone has run into this?

O.k. I know the Banshee hasn't changed much in 20 years but does anyone know the answer to this. There are 2 holes on the top of the tank cover, they don't even come close to the holes they are supposed to screw into. My questions are, could it be an aftermarket tank cover or 2 could they be stock just from a year that it changed? The fit of my tank cover and rad cover are horrible. The front of the rad cover doesn't even fit into the where it should on the front fender. I'm just curious if anyone has run into this?

Thanks, but the ones I was looking for are the 2 that go into the back of the tank and holds the front fender, and the tank cover to the tank. I ended up going to the hardware store and getting 2 that fit. Thanks for the replys.

I'm trying to get my hands on the 2 bolts that go through the gas tank cover, through the front fender, and into the gas tank. I can't find a dealer that has them in stock, and I can't find a spec. on them to tell me what they are supposed to be. Can anyone give me a measurement i.e. length, thread pitch, and head type.

The bluing is natural and, according to Toomey, if your jetted perfectly the first couple of inches of your pipes should blue. The hottest point on the pipe is going to be at the exhaust port. . The more of it you have the hotter your pipe is, and the heat is going to be driven by your fuel type and jetting. When I picked up mine the pipes were pretty blued up so I started researching it. Well the guy I bought it from was using AV gas which is high octane and running a little lean so that built up a lot of heat which blued the pipes. You might want to look at getting uncoated pipes and look into Jet Hot (www.jethot.com). It's a ceramic coating that shines like chrome but will not blue because it can handle temps upwards of 1200 deg.

I asked the same question about a week ago. I'm using Cometic gaskets and I ended up contacting Cometic. They told me that their gaskets are designed to not use any sealant, so that's how I assembled my top end. I think the stock gaskets come with something on them to help seal. Hope this helps.

O.K. had to rebuild my top end. While I had it apart I had it trail ported, and the head slightly decked. The machinist told me that no matter what anyone says, start with 370 mains. He said that I would still be able to run pump gas on the mods he did. What he said makes sense. I'd rather be rich and go lean then go lean and blow $300 worth of machine work plus parts for the rebuild. Anyway, any suggestions on clip position, pilot screw size. Anything to get me started then I can work from there. 98 Shee, Toomey T5's, stock carbs, Boyesen Power Reeds, K&N filter with airbox removed around it, .020 bored over.

Cometic says their gaskets are designed to be installed with nothing on them, in case anyone was wondering.

Are your sure it's tranny fluid and not brake fluid, did you check your rear brake resevior for a possible crack? Just a thought

I'm using Cometic gaskets for my top end rebuild. Do I need anything on them like Permatex? The stock gaskets come with a type of sealer on them the Cometics don''t have anything. Should I use like Permatex copper? I didn't see any mention of it in the Clymers manual.

Wow your determined to mill that head, just kidding. Before you do set the head on the plate glass and go around it with some feeler gauges, or just put a straight edge across it. You'll find out real quick.

Hey all. I broke my fuel petcock, the part that you actually grab onto and turn. I'm not being cheap, dealer wants bout $24 for a new assembly, but just want to know if I can buy just that part anywhere? Also, I have a set of T5"s and I have the spark arrester that goes from both pipes into 1 can. The can is kind of dented up and I was thinking of replacing it with a pair of Cobra Sparky's. The similar set up that Toomey offers is o.k. but the Sparky's are about 1/2 the cost and do the same thing. Where can I get the best price on them? Lastly, my left side muffler is dented up pretty good. Anyone know where I might be able to pick up a used one from somewhere. I think I know the answer but just looking anyway.

I had someone send this information to me on another site. I haven't tryed it yet but I figure what the heck. Here is a way to avoid spending hundreds of dollars for new plastic - It will make all but the most abused plastic look like new - especially White plastic. I have found the results to be better than painting or using plastic renew. This process is only outdone by multiple stages of meticulous wet sanding... but with this method, you get about 90 percent of the results of wet sanding with less than 10 percent of the work! Best of all, it's not only EASY, but fairly CHEAP, and it WORKS! It is easy and cheap enough to use every ride if you want. And its a GREAT way to sell a quad - I've done it! This is a PROVEN method, I've been using it for years. If you are skeptical... just try it! You won't believe how GREAT it works. Ten full years on my quad, and all the plastic on it is original! DIRECTIONS 1. Wash off ATV using a mild soap and water. - Be sure you are in the shade (you need working time). - If muddy, I usually wet it down a few times first. - Don't get it crazy clean just fairly clean, I use a tire cleaning brush. 2. While quad is wet, smear on a straight coat of regular Dawn brand liquid blue dish soap - yes it HAS to be Dawn. 3. Now sprits on Fantastik cleaner out of the spray bottle - yes it HAS to be Fantastik. (These two products set up a chemical reaction that cause a mild chemical striping of the plastic - really). 4. Scrub the mixture in with a tire brush. Difficult areas with heavy scratches can be cleaned, lessened (or possibly even removed) with a green scrubby like your wife uses to clean pots and pans. - During this process you will see your brush/scrubby becoming the color of the quad - don't freak out - this is ok, it's what makes it work. 5. Now rinse off and notice how clean it is! Even ground in dirt and oil stains are gone. White plastic looks brilliant again! 6. Want it to shine now? Four methods work good... - Least amount of work: Tire cleaner shine out of a spray can. - Next least amount of work: Mop-n-Glo Floor wax - Little more work but looks good and even smells good: Lemon Pledge furniture polish out of spray can - Best (best looking and best for the machine): Protect All spray on wax and UV blocker Available in dept stores in RV section www.protectall.com - Avoid WD-40 it's a solvent! 7. Admire your quad looking the best it has since you bought it, in fact, it may have never looked this good!