wrecker03

With a machine that new.....good luck. Most likely dealer only. Especially when it comes to motor replacement parts. Anyone I've known or read about that needs motor work, and has to replace parts for Polaris in general, goes right to the dealer. Either that or your paying more for custom work. They're just not "hot enough" for there to be an abundance of aftermarket parts. Even aftermarkets for the Scrambler, Predator, and Outlaw are few and far between.

It can be!! Even just riding on the ice can be an absolute blast. When Anchor Bay freezes over up here you can run for miles on the ice, and the canals and rivers that run into the bay can be a good time too. Anchor Bay is just north of Lake St. Clair before you get into the St. Clair river that runs into Lake Huron.

Bump, can anyone help with this one?

Well it's been a while. I've had too much going on to work on the shee. Now I need to get it running. I looked at the connection for the ignition. It's been replaced. What I am looking at is: From ignition (key) a Red wire spliced to a Red with black stripe a Black w/white stripe spliced to a Black w/yellow stripe a Brown spliced to a black a Black spliced to another black It worked at one time, but what I want to know is what do I splice to what to eliminate the key?

I have a stock head, anyone looking for one? It's in good shape. If not I'm putting it in the aluminum box to take to the scrap yard.

1. If you are choking on an ice cube, don't panic. Simply pour a cup of boiling water down your throat and presto. The blockage will be almost instantly removed. 2. Clumsy? Avoid cutting yourself while slicing vegetables by getting someone else to hold them while you chop away. 3. Avoid arguments with your partner about lifting the toilet seat by simply using the sink. 4. For high blood pressure sufferers: simply cut yourself and bleed for a few minutes, thus reducing the pressure in your veins. Remember to use a timer. 5. A mouse trap, placed on top of your alarm clock, will prevent you from rolling over and going back to sleep after you hit the snooze button. 6. If you have a bad cough, take a large dose of laxatives. Then you will be afraid to cough. 7. Have a bad toothache? Smash your thumb with a hammer and you will forget about the toothache. 8. Sometimes, we just need to remember what the rules of life really are: You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape. 9. Remember: Everyone seems normal until you get to know them. 10. Never pass up an opportunity to go to the bathroom. 11. If you woke up breathing, congratulations! You get another chance. 12. And finally, be really nice to your family and friends; you never know when you might need them to empty your bedpan.

1. If you are choking on an ice cube, don't panic. Simply pour a cup of boiling water down your throat and presto. The blockage will be almost instantly removed. 2. Clumsy? Avoid cutting yourself while slicing vegetables by getting someone else to hold them while you chop away. 3. Avoid arguments with your partner about lifting the toilet seat by simply using the sink. 4. For high blood pressure sufferers: simply cut yourself and bleed for a few minutes, thus reducing the pressure in your veins. Remember to use a timer. 5. A mouse trap, placed on top of your alarm clock, will prevent you from rolling over and going back to sleep after you hit the snooze button. 6. If you have a bad cough, take a large dose of laxatives. Then you will be afraid to cough. 7. Have a bad toothache? Smash your thumb with a hammer and you will forget about the toothache. 8. Sometimes, we just need to remember what the rules of life really are: You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape. 9. Remember: Everyone seems normal until you get to know them. 10. Never pass up an opportunity to go to the bathroom. 11. If you woke up breathing, congratulations! You get another chance. 12. And finally, be really nice to your family and friends; you never know when you might need them to empty your bedpan.

SOLD!! :biggrin:

No one have an interest?

Nope, the TORS is disconnected. I'll try bridging the wires this week and see if that makes a difference.

I'm have a new addition to the family on the way and need to get rid of the toys so I'm selling my trailer.I have been using this trailer to transport ATV's but now it has to go. It will hold 4 ATV's. This trailer has a "beaver tail" rear door that can be used as a ramp. There is "E" track down the center, front to rear, on the floor. In the picture, 2 peices are missing. They were removed for camping purposes and have been reinstalled. There is a door with a seperate screen door on the side and overhead storage in the front, and LED lighting. See Pictures below. I'm asking $4200 OBO, shop around and you'll find it's worth it, but this has to go so make me a reasonable offer I can't refuse. Specs: Overall Dimensions * Length 19'8" * Width 8' * Height 8'7" Overall Interior * Length 16'4" * Width 7'4" * Height 6'8" * Sidewall Height 6'6" * Between W/W 6'2" Rear Door * Width 7'4" * Height 6' Hich * Weight 170 lbs. * Height 19" * Ball Size 2 5/16" Platform Height 20" Weight Ratings * GVWR 7,000 LBS * Curb Weight 2,590 * Payload 4,860 Axles - Tandem * Brakes - Electric * Tires - ST205 75/R15

The wires that come down from the key I found were cut at some point in time, I'm not the original owner, and I did previously find that a couple were frayed and came apart. I've since soldered them back together but I still have the problem. I would like to however eliminate the key altogether. What do I need to do to acomplish that? I think the ignition / key may be the problem.

I like this train of thought, and it makes sense but the biggest thing I see is that when I turn the lights on and kick it over, the lights don't even flicker like they should. I'm starting to think it's something else. Possibly the ignition switch is bad. Anyone have an idea how to check it out to make sure it's good?

I took a measurement with feeler gauges between the flywheel and the pickup and I have about .040 + / - How do I go about making an adjustment to the pickup to get it closer to the flywheel?

My bearings were seized and we had one hell of a time getting them apart. Putting them back together was simple. Heat up the carrier, put the bearings in the freezer for a while and when you go to put them back together the bearings will fall right into place. When the carrier cools and the bearings warm it'll be like a press fit. I don't see the use of putting the grease zerk in the carrier. The axle itself rides on the bearings which are sealed. What's filling the carrier with grease going to do? The bearings and seals are supposed to keep any contamination out of the carrier...supposed to anyway. I think the spacer is in there for strength more than anything? I guess it doesn't hurt but if you don't run the zerk through the spacer then the grease is only between the spacer and the carrier and nothing between the spacer and the axle, and what good does that do?

Yeah I talked to him on Monday and he told me all about it. I have to call him tonight, he was going come over and we were going to take dig into it, but I didn't unload the quad here at home yet so I'm going to try to hook up with him this weekend if possible. I thought I would post the problem I'm having and see if I can get some feedback.

Went to the dunes last weekend, pulled the shee out of the trailer and couldn't get it started. Said piss on it and went and rode the Predator for a few hours. Relaxed a little and went to find out whats happening. Well I found that the ignition wires from the key were corroded and disconnected. Fixed all that kicked once and it fired up. Rode for about 15 - 20 minutes and I was getting on it in 3rd gear and it just shut down, stalled right out. I checked the spark plugs and they look fine, everything looks fine. I'm thinking this is electrical because I didn't see any spark and when I turn the lights on and kick it over the lights don't flash with the kick. Sorry of the long story but I wanted to give some background on what happend. Could this be a stator problem? This had never happened before I split the cases and rebuilt the top end. Also, I want to eliminate the key and the on off switch by the light switch and replace them with a tether, is this a difficult job? No laughing please, I'm an idiot when it comes to electrical.

Might want to look at a rider on the homeowners policy for theft, that's where mines covered and it's like an extra $30 per year and its covered for what I have into it. If I crash it, and walk away then the cost to replace parts is going to be cheaper than the insurance in the long run. If I crash it and don't walk away, well the shee is most likely the last thing on my mind.

I'll be heading up on Wed. and staying through the weekend. We'll be staying at Jellystone though, got the whole family coming along. Hope to meet up with some of ya out there.

I think I know the answer to my question just from looking at the numerous posts and great information, but I like to be sure. I haven't had a chance to do a plug chop yet because I'm not close enough to anywhere I can get WOT. I'm heading to Silver Lake next week so I'll probably do some tuning my first day and I hope that will be it. My plugs are a little dark and wet so I'm thinking I need to go down in size on my mains. Right now I'm at 370 which I was told to run by the guy that did my porting. I agree rich is good on fresh cylinders but I think I'm too rich. Opinions.......

According to Toomey's website, if all the operating conditions are perfect your pipes should blue. Chrome is not heat resistant, moisture resistant, or corrosion resistant, it's only bling bling. Heat is what causes the chrome to blue, and heat = HP. I would be more worried if they didn't blue, at least at the point they hook up to the exhaust. If you want a truely heat resistant coating that will NOT blue and looks like chrome then look into a ceramic coating. You should also get a small HP gain from the ceramic. From the Toomey website - Regarding bluing: All chrome plating will turn blue when exposed to sufficient heat. Anybody who tells you any different is crazy. It is inherent in the material. We have heard stories of some customers who have friends with another brand of pipes whose chrome never blues. I believe them. The difference here is temperature. We are the only pipe company that supplies you with the "Perfect Jetting Kit" that provides your Banshee with the exact carburation required by this combination. You can be assured of maximum performance because your Banshee will be jetted accurately, and therefore produce the optimum operating temperatures to make maximum horsepower (heat is power). The competing systems do not. Their temperatures are lower and therefore are not producing the best power, or heat, thus no bluing. That's why. If you don't want them to blue, then run your bike richer. If you want to blow in enough raw fuel to extinguish the combustion temperatures enough to lower the power output so as to not blue the pipes you will have success. (Why would you buy the highest power racing pipes available if you don't want to use all the power? Why else do you ride a Banshee?) We believe the power is the primary goal and the relative beauty of the chrome is strictly secondary. From the Jet Hot website - Because of its low emissivity and insulating effect, Jet Hot Sterling creates a thermal barrier to protect headers - inside and out - while reducing heat transfer. But the good news goes beyond protecting headers from thermal fatigue. Plugs, wires, fan motors, water pumps and other heat-sensitive parts get a break, too, in a cooler environment. Plus, power normally increases and safety for racers improves with lower temperatures.

You want to bore it out the least amount as possible. Once a reputable machinist takes some measurements of where your cylinders are and compares that to the stock measurements, that is where you will find out how big you have to go. You might be able to get away with just honing them out which might only call for new rings. Find out your measurements first and go from there. This is a two stroke, not a four. Boring out your cylinders is not necessarily a good thing, just means you'll have to replace or sleeve your cylinders sooner.

O.K. quick one .... Clymers says to use 10W-30 motor oil in the trans. I was running 80W BelRay because thats what the previous owner was running. Does it really matter that much?

Rob did my head and cylinders a couple of months back and the time he stated was dead on. I dropped them off in early March and he said I would have them in 3-4 weeks and he emailed me almost to the day to let me know they were done. I was pretty happy with his communication and up front honesty. Like everyone is saying, this time of year things get screwed up with so much work. Try emailing him, he's machone here on the HQ.

The absolute best price on Maier plastic I have found has been www.zmperformance.com, check them out.