wrecker03

I checked into it for mine and for the cost of the work and shipping I could almost get new pipes. They quoted me $100 until I sent a picture of what I wanted and they came back and said like $300 something because of them being 2 stroke pipes.

Just a little info to consider..Normal antifreeze is Ethylene Glycol that you mix with water 50/50 for your car. I might be wrong to to my best knowledge engine ice is nothing more than propylene glycol premixed with deionized water. Basically they put it in a fancy package and put a cool name like "Engine Ice" on it to charge extra, and claim a big teperature drop. Propylene Glycol is nothing more than non toxic antifreeze you can buy at Wal Mart, and yes it does help to reduce engine temps. slightly. It would be kind of like getting a generic prescription over the name brand. Anything you use for the 'shee needs to be compatible with the aluminum so it doesn't corrode and depending on where you live and when you ride you might want the freeze protection. The upside with the Propylene Glycol is that it is environmentally friendly. I have a buddy that bought his 'shee in '87 brand new out of the show room in '86, yes he still has it. He has run only regular antifreeze from the autoparts store ever since the first time he flushed and filled the system and has never had any cooling system related problems. His advise to me was to always read through the marketing gimmicks to save yourself some dough and put the money where it counts. The only way to stay cool is by moving because obviously there is no fan. If you have to stop and wait shut 'er down and wait. Just my $.02

Rob just finished my cylinders and head. Just got them back over the weekend. He's a good knowledgeable guy. I'll have to let you know how everything works once I get the shee running, but I thought he was up front and honest and very reasonably priced.

Well just got my cylinders and head back this weekend. I just need to get them media blasted so I can repaint them and I'll be ready to put everything back together. What I'm looking for are some "tips of the trade" from the guys that have done this. This is my first time and I want to make sure it's right. I've read many posts from people having problems right after the rebuild so what should I make sure to do so I don't make obvious "rookie" mistakes and end up having to tear it all down again. The riding season is just about here and I want to get this thing running and broken in so I can hit the trails and the dunes. I want to ride not wrench.

Just found out my head and clyinders are all done and being sent back. I want to replace all the studs and nuts in the cyliners and the head. Stockers from the dealer run about $87. I'm just looking for black, nothing fancy. Anyone have a good line on where to get everything for a reasonable price. I want to just replace everything because some things are damaged, some are seized together and it would just make me feel better personally.

Well I think I'll use something else. I emailed them about adding my stingers and sent them a picture of what I'm looking to get done. The original price they gave me was $100 OTD. After seeing the picture they said that 2 stroke expansion chambers run more and they thought they were quoting a 4 stroke pipe. Well when it was all said and done for the head pipes and stingers to strip and recoat it was $280 :woot: then $35 shipping each way. I could almost get a new set of pipes for that. I'm going to look into plating locally.

Where you at? I'm in SE Mich just north of Detroit.

Where you at? I'm in SE Mich just north of Detroit.

PM sent

I agree, Bob's is a helluva nice guy, not much of a talker but a nice guy. He's the kind of guy I don't mind doing business with. He said it would be about 3-4 weeks on my stuff so I'm trying to get myself straight with the other things I might need so I can put it back together and get it broke in and ride the mutha.

I'm working with Bob from RB Racing to have my head and cylinder work done. I'm not getting to crazy with the porting. He said I should be able to run everything as is but I'll get a little boost from what he is doing. He's setting it up so I can run pump gas. I'll be riding the trails and the dunes. Toomey recommends running Boyesen reeds either on the stock cages or with the Rad Valves and from reading some posts there doesn't seem to be any solid reason to use V-Force over the Boyesen, it seems like a preference thing to me. Keep in mind, I'm a newbie so would someone with my experience even notice the difference?

I did a search and didn't see anything specific. Is there any real benefit to going to aftermarket cages or are the stockers fine with aftermarket reeds? I think I might go with carbon Boyesen. I'm running Toomey T5's and I am having the cylinders bored +.020, having the head shaved a bit to up the compression, and some porting done.

They sent me a quote for a set of Toomey's. PM me a price.

Anyone ever try this? www.jet-hot.com

That's good to know. When I have a breakdown your close enough to stop by and share a pop or two to get me through the rough times :beer:

Well I'm not rich and I'm not looking to make this a money pit LOL :yelrotflmao: This is just a toy and like anyone when the opportunity presents itself I don't mind digging into the wallet. My plan is to tear it down next winter and start making it nice. It's a little rough around the edges right now but I'll be riding Silver Lake Dunes and some trails this summer so since I'm rebuilding I figure I might as well give her a boost. I'm actually looking right now for a reputable machine shop around here that will tell me the truth about whether I can use the pistons or not. I can take some measurements to get at least an idea but I really don't know how deep they're going to have to take it.

Well I'm rebuilding the top end. Wasn't expecting to but my compression was low, just under 90psi, pulled the head and found a couple gouges in the left cylinder wall and the dome over the left cylinder has some pits in it. I think the guy I bought it from did some damage and didn't want to put the money up to do it right, just wanted it to run to sell, anyway I figure I might as well just do it. My question is since I'm doing some top end work what's your opinion on what I should do as far as mods. I'm thinking I'll be around .030 over when I'm done, I hope because he gave me a set of .030 over Weisco pistons. I'm running pretty much stock right now with the exception of Toomey T5's. The other thing is he was running the stock airbox when I got it but the Toomey's melted it on both sides so should I pick up a stock airbox or run the open Toomey foam filter system he gave me with the bike?

I ended up getting 2 of them from K&W for $4 each + tax, not bad. I bet you mean Jim Riehl's Yamaha... Yup, that's the first time I was in there. I have a hard time going to dealers in the first place. I work about 1 mile from Magic racing but they didn't have any singles, just kits.

I have a 98 that I'm trying to get clean and I've tried everything mentioned and they seem to clean up o.k. but here's the second part of the equation. How do you get the "yellowing" out? Even though I have scrubbed the hell out of them I can still see "yellowing" around where I removed old decals. Any thoughts?

Tyguy, where you getting them from? Everywhere I go they want to sell the entire kit. The only place I've been able to find a single screw is from Vito's performance and he want's $6 for the screw and $8 for shipping. Granted it's cheaper than the kit, but c'mon!

Haven't been running it. Actually havn't run it since about September but since it's cold I have it in the garage and I'm working on somethings to get ready for next year, this being one of them.

Hey guy's. I'm a new user to the site although I've been cheating and reading alot of info and haven't been posting....till now. This is probably a simple one. I picked up a 98 Banshee, and it's my first. The person I bought it from had installed idol adjustment screws into the carbs. I don't know why but maybe some of you can tell me, local dealer told me that people do that when they install a twist throttle. It doesn't have one but doesn't mean that it didn't at one time. Anyway, one of the screws fell out so I need a replacement can anyone tell me where I can buy 1 fricken idol adjustment screw. All I can find is a kit with 2 screws, a drill bit, and a tap. I can understand if I have to buy 2 screws, but that's all I need and $25 (cost of entire kit) for 2 screws seems...well excessive. Seems to run pretty good but any tips would be appreciated. I'm not a racer just a rider. 98 shee, mostly stock (I think), Toomey T5's. carb's tuned per Toomey recommended specs., sidewinder front and rear sprockets and chain. I think 1 tooth up in front, 1 down in rear.