chevy7398

to the guys that have done tihis doeas anyone have ecact before and after measurments as far as width and and does it move the wheels forward or backword, and most important ground clearence loses or gains and total travel???

anyone got a kick start lever in decent shape, mine is beyond rebuildable.

had the same problem after i rebuilt the top endon my banshee, ended up it as the rod bearings on the crank side

hey everyone, just curious to see if anyone has a temp gauge or has temp gunned ther radiator or head while ridding, i have a infard temp gun i use with my rc trucks and figured once i get the shee back toghter i would temp it for the hell of it, just wondering if anyone has done this and about what there temps are

does the twist throttle come with the cable

here is a example of anodized red powdercoating, this is the example pic from the company i buy my powder from, if anyone is interested i can get about any color, and even textured and high temp powders. will gladly do anything even if its just one part, i do this on the side, the way i usually charge people is they pay for the powder and then a agreed upon price depending on how much and how big and how much prep work is needed meaing is it clean and blasted ext. as long as it fits in my oven i can do anything that can stad 400 degrees for 20 min., i curently have gloss black, anodized red, crome, clear, flat black, and i think a litle anodized blue. but it only takes a few days once i order to have it to the door

i do powder coating and can can get anodized colors, just finised up doing a bunch of part anodized red for a guys truck motor

i just pulled my crank out cause it was in need of a rebuild, long story short cheapest rebuild kit i could find $291 chapest labor to rebuild $120, total $411 not counting welding, brand new hot rods crank trued and welded from f.a.s.t. $400 plus shipping, not to hard of a decision to make if you ask me

i used to have a set but they both broke off, never rolled it just from the fenders slaping it they kept bending and finally got weak and just broke off

going through the same headache myself, had the top end rebuilt then found out crank seal was leakin first time i fired it up so had to tear it all back down, not fun but splitting the cases is really easy

puttimg lube on the studs gives you a more accurate torgue reading as you are not seeing the added drag from a rusy or dry stud or nut, did you try getting a new oring set instead of using the old ones

im pretty sure they will only go on the correct carb due to the copper tube that stcks out of the bowl, though i am not sure, when i took mine apart i did them one at a time

ya when i pulled the pipe of a good amount ran out of it,pulled everthing of the side to se the bearing and erything looks good it must just be worn and leaking, my rod play is just enough to still be in spec but worn enough to get it done now, lowest cost for a rebuild kit for the crank 291 bucks plus lowest labor to rebuild it minus true and weld 120 bucks, so i am just going to get a new crankshaft, is it true i can get a hot rods crank trued and welded already for 400 bucks from fast? saw it on the site but seems to good to be true

where did you get it done at?? also what is a pancake bearing??

how much does it cost to have it trued and welded and new bearings installed??

ya that is super, can i change the crank bearings my self or do i need to take it somewhere? also is there anything else i shoud check or change while im in there since this will be the second time i have had to take the motor out of the frame and stil havent goten to ride : ( i found a complete set of seals for the bottom end at albe but does anyone no of anyone with a complete set of bearings??

i found a complete set of seals for the bottom end at alba, whle its apart does onyone no of any breaing sets for it, also can i change the crank bearings myself or do i need to take it somewhere??

ok well i just got it fired up after a complete tear down to repaint clean and basically service the whole bike, well long story short it ran great when i tore it down so i wasnt going to rebuild the top end yet just instal a cool head with some smaller domes, well i took the old head off and found a hole in the right hand piston and the head was beat all to h*ll on the right side, so i ended up redoing the top end as well, well now i have the bike far enough along that i could start it for the first time ( been down for a year) so i was pretty excited, only to find that the right side smokes like crazy, double checked everything carbs, ignitions ext, hold my hand behind the silencer and my hand gets covered in oil, so i suppose this is what caused that cylinder to go out the firtst time and that the crank seal is bad and that is what is causing the smoke, but before i go tearing the motor back out is there anything else it could be or a easy way to check and make sure that it is the crank seal and also what is the easyest way tho change them and how much do thay cost, any help would be great!! also is it very hard to do, i am sure i can do it myself but never done it before so i guess it will be a learning experence.

well i started her up and reved it a bit with my had behind the silencer and it covered my had with oil, so i guess it is the crank seal, so how do i change that is it hard??

ill check in the morning, havent reved it to high its still on stands and has not been brokien in with no suspension or plastic but it seems to rev fine just blows crazy smoke, if it is sucking trany oil can i change the seals with the motor in the bike or do i have to take the motor back out, that would be a real kick in the ass as i finally got it back in

as you sitting on the bike it would be the right side, the carbs should be "fine" it ran perfect for 3 years took the carbs off put them into ziplock bags took them out changed the main jets and put them back on, nothn else was touched on the carbs, the other side clears out great while this side sends the thickest whitest smoke cloud out

ok so just double checked my carbs, both needles are in the same clip and both jets are the same, also tried switching the plug wires thinking maybe i had a bad wire but no luck still the same

also i cant remember if it was there before but theres kinda a groaning clinking cant really describe it noise coming from the bottom end think its always been there but cant remember, coming from water pump area kinda i think is this normal or is something wring

the idling is good with just a little smoke outa each pipe, also the bowls are on the correct carb as i jetted them one at a time, the main jets are the only things i changes so the rest of the setings are the same as they were before i tore it down so they havent been moved

hey everyone, well i finally (after a year of being torn down) got my shee together enough to start it, after it warmed up good i gave it a few blips of the throttle one pipe barly smokes but the other seems like it aint even firing and just blows smoke real bad, put my hand behind it and its like there is no pressure like it aint firing, the hole top end is new and i dont have a clue what is causing this, i pulled the plugs the side that smokes was clean as a whistle and the side that dont the porcelin was a little brown it will sit there and idle just fine what is causing this??? and how do i fix it???