fastrthnu

Ill be up n running within the next 30 days.

I have a nice clean pair of carbs jetted 25/320 with tors elim kit and twist throttle for $70 shipped. They have been cleaned out very well and have stainless allen bowl bolts and toomey needles. Just need handle bar grips. Pm me if interested. If you want I have mains from 270-350 if you know what size you want in em.

Clutch basket is being purchased in person tomorrow. Sorry man. Here are a few pics tonight before the teardown It has a modified +3.5" swingarm to I noticed. Also frame is shipping included the price listed abouve, but a arms are seperate.

The motor made 150 psi tonight with that stock head f/s above. Since now I dont need to rebuild my old motor 97 Crank cases unbroken no chainbreaks or cracks with new seals and clutch lever included $175 shipped. Ill even throw in the nuts/bolts and yamabond. Need misc factory nut or bolts, whatever lemme know.

Tranny is out of my 97 and worked great. Im holding it for a few days for a friend and if he doesnt take it, its getting listed. I will have pictures up of everything tomorrow night Rear fenders are already gone. Also Have a rear grab bar, and 2 pairs of foot pegs $15 shipped pegs ea pr, $20 shipped grab bar. tie rods $30 shipped. reeds n cages not sure if stock or aftermarket yet, will find out this weekend.

Will be posting pictures of the bike whole tomorrow night, but wanted to get the ball rolling. This weekend, once its apart, it all will be listed on eBay, but they will be a bit cheaper here because there arent any fees.Im still waiting to figure out to do with my motors. All prices are shipping included. Frame: $275 Rear axle assy-sprocket: $140 w/o hubs $160 w/hubs Whole rear Brake assy -rotor $65 Rear swinger & d-bone $40 Rear shock (yellow) $35 Front shocks (white) $35 T5`s & silencers $300 Rear plastc (red) $55 Seat (red on black banshee 420 cornbred) $55 Sprockets n chain $30 (I think they are oversized 15-16 tooth message me if interested and Ill check) Semi Polished Jugs $150 (look good, but need more polishing, and not done on insides where not visable) Stock stator $65 Radiator n all hoses $45 Gas tank $30 Front tires n rims. Tires are pretty worn maybe 20% left razrs. $70 Rear tires n rims all stock $80 70-75% tread easy. A-arms with spindles $125 $150 with hubs $170 with previous and calipers n line hoses. Front brake master/hard lines $30 Renthal handlebars red anodized $30 need grips. price high b/c of shipping Wire harness with coil, cdi, reg, on/off sw, key sw n key, ect. $75 (message me for details) Stock cyl head $15 (will need to verify if its been milled if bought) more motor parts soon: cases, full trans, carbs, aftermarket filters, ect. Anything else wanted, lemme know, Ill see if I have it. Paypal and M/O only, no cash no checks. Dont be afraid to make reasonable offers or trade offers.

funny. Im posting pictures tomorrow. was just fishing for ideas so I could look some up.

sweet dude,. welcome back

they look/shaped like stock jugs, but they arent. I dont think they are a mono

I picked up this bike today to part out and finish mine, when I got to the guys house and looked at it it had to big ass flatslides and some sort of aftermarket cylinders. The seat said banshee 420 on it. They dont have the stock castings numbers/letters in them and are unpaintes with a much smoother finish. Anyone know what they might be? I wont have a camera for a couple more days. Is there anyway to tell who makes them?

Paint looks great till it chips n scratched. IF you do though, Id recommend engine block paint or brake component paint.

results: kickback from correct to incorrect rotation through to the kick starter from bad timing or bad crank, bother were messed up.

not positive, i picked mine up bare this weekend picking it up from coating and Id guess around 75lbs.

I want wun :woot:

Check the adjustment of your pushrod on top the crank case where your cable ends, see that the arrow on there is lined up with the one on the case, or like he said, your preasure plate might be worn or something

try dropping to a 270 or 280. Or just do a chop and know for sure. you may be lean on the bottom though, try turning it in 1/4`s at a time to richen up the bottom end too.

Boyeseen carbon pro reeds, cheap yet effective. Advance timing, really cheap power, pods or box k&n w/o lid. milled head, more compression, more bottom & torque. Prob the best cheapest power adders. Oh and read my mods below for the real secret to going fast.

make sure you dont throw your tors away though, they still have a good use. for instance one day you feel like smashing something with a hammer :shrug:

there are 2 carrier bolts, loosen them both the top just enough to move the carrier with alittle force, then you have on the bottom bolt 2 tear drop shaped thingies with a lock nut and bolt. I dont remember which way to go to tighten/loosen, but thats how you do it. I put about a 1/2" play sitting on it, so its not to tight eating a jump, and not to loose off the ground.

I use a light p. wash on mine about every 3-4 trips out when it gets a bad stain coated on and grease, I spray a can of gunk all over wait 10 minutes then blast it off.

Well, thats answered.

if you bent the toomey needle you can use a stock one. just go back to stock with both sides, 4th groove on 280 might be the recommended starting point, but chop the plugs right away anyways. I run 300 in the spring/summer and 320 in the fall/ winter

Rip the bike up n down the road right before you change the oil to suspend any crap that will stick to the bottom and not drain.

put some windex! :happy: when I powerslide and fold my tires so my outside side wall is folded over the inside of the rim, sometimes little rock n crap wedge in the and make em leak like that. Get soapy water and fill it up, then spray it around the ledge and see if its the bead, if not do the rest of the tire and plug that hole. Measre them to see if they are out of round to. If not and the bead leaks, just break it clean it off really good, and re seat it with that green crap in there.

Ive always dealt with wiseco pistons, even in the cars, but I can get a good deal on these namuras. are they worth a crap. Im not going to be runnin more than 165 psi in this motor (most of the time ) and run em cool. its onlt about a $50 difference though not to get the forged. If I had the time, I was going to build a stroker, which I will, but I cant wait any longer to ride. My roller will be done next weekend, and I need to get the top of this thing done.