hyperlite33

If you have the stock carbs still, can you put the airbox back on for that ride?

I totally agree with bansheekid15 about there being and a bunch of crybabies on here for the last year, which is why I haven't been on here lately...but dajogejr's quote had to be the best slam to these guys I have every seen on here...good job!!! I am still in tears!!!! :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

I don't mean to be a douchebag about this, but Toyota has many manufactuing plants all over the US and keeps adding new ones while the big 3 keeps moving everything to Canada and Mexico to get away from the labor laws and unions that are draggin them down. Toyota keeps tons of people employed and aren't begging for money to bail their ass out which the US taxpayer will end up paying for. And to compare the Tundra to anything else but a 1500 or F150 on towing would be like comparing apples to oranges as the Tundra is still nothing more than a 1/4 ton truck. I have a 2002 Tundra and when loaded down with a slide in camper and a loaded down trailer, I can blow away my brothers Chevy 1/4 ton with the same setup. The only way that I would buy an american truck would be for more pulling power, but my tundra gets the job done that I need right now and with ZERO problems since I bought it almost 6 years ago.

I have a +4 on my 4mil and the only problem I have is on steep hill shooting and the front picking up...I ride at 8500' asl though!

Just sold to ny98banshee350...

PM Sent...

Thanks for pointing that out :thumbsup: ...should have looked at the package closer as it says 33-36's! Here is a pic of the same intake that is on my bike and how far away the clutch arm is to the bowl... Thanks for the bump guys !

I have a brand new set of Boss Racing Billet intakes with built in crossovers. The package says will fit 34-36mm carbs. I have the same one on my 35mm Kiehins and they fit perfect! This is an extra that I had and has never been used and still in the package. Comes with 2 brand new gaskets. Retail for $160 but I will let it go for $100 plus shipping!

Check your compression in both cylinders. Also did you sync your carbs?

Another one for spiders...that's one of the first things I get when getting a new bike!

I thought I was done with my bike with simple bolt ons and then the bike responded with an exploded crank bearing...She got what she wanted (and me) with a 4mil + add ons!

I think it depends on your current jetting...they may lean it out a little bit, so if you are on the rich side you should be fine. :thumbsup:

Yeah the VF3 are the cages and the reeds all together. As for the billet intake...don't get it unless you are getting bigger carbs and need the bigger intake. You don't need the reed spacers with the VF3's. There was a thread about removing the tors, but I am pretty sure the instructions with the tors removal kit will explain it...definetly the first mod though unless just going around the whole removal and get new bigger carbs!

Between the head and the reeds, I noticed on my bike a bigger increase in power and crisp throttle response with the VF3 reeds...just swap them with the stock reeds, only mod would be to cut your stock intakes which Vforce explains in the directions. Not saying the head is bad, I just found in my application the reeds made a bigger difference...if you haven't taken off the TORS yet though, I would do that before either of these mods...

Boy your rating in my book has gone down the toilet...what a douchebag!!! Getting back to the subject...this DVD is well worth the DONATION and would be a real help to anyone rebuilding or even tuning a banshee...good job Tate!

I agree with Tate on this one...when I was rebuilding my ride, I wish that I could have had all the info in one spot and especially on a real time video. BigRed's posts helped me a lot, but was still confused about some things that I had to spend days trying to search. Some of those searches only came up with old posts with broken links and/or pictures where this would be in one place. :smile:

PM sent...

That is the slide your looking at in the throat of the carb...I have never dealt with the TORS so I can't help you, but I would highly suggest getting the TORS removed to save on many headaches now and in the future!

Your talking about the slides right and not the floats?

Thanks guys that's what I needed to know...back to the shop for some more fuel line!

I know what your saying about that...some quick rides around the fields and I was contemplating putting the stock carbs back on! Damn thing was chugging the gas untill I looked down to see one line getting melted by the pipe. So if getting a pingle is out of the question right now, does anybody know if the way I have the fuel lines will run the left carb out of gas if the right carb has the straight fuel line? I also ride at 5000-8500 feet so I am not buring as much gas as seal level.

Yeah that is exactly what I was thinking since the right side carb has a straight flow and the left has a split off there. On the stock T the gas comes down and splits 90* in either direction where this setup will feed the right side first. Didn't know if there was enough gas being pulled to create an air bubble for the left carb. BTW Snowman...I think I caught myself starring at your avatar for 2 minutes...good work! :thumbsup:

I tried tieing it closer to the intake, but then the hose kinks. Due to the way the inlets of the PWK's angle out, this seems to be the only way to run the lines without getting a pingle. Does anybody know if these carbs suck enough gas that would cause the left carb to run dry?

With 35mm PWK carbs and T5's, I can't seem to find a good way to route the gas line coming from the petcock on the left carb because it touches the pipe or is kinked. Will it be okay to run the "T" in the line sideways like in the pictures or will one carb flow more gas than the other?