3

I also have a blue plastic Shee, and one of my favorite option for PC the frame is yellow. I dont see a lot of good colour combo to go with blue plastic, yellow will make the blue stand out good. For a-arm, chrome is really nice and swinger i am not sure yet, probably yellow to or blue. So thats my two cent.

I run 20 rear and 22 front for trail riding and it doesnt look bad. Good improvement up front in the sand pit where i had smash my front end couple time at the bottom of a hill. Rear, i sometime use my skidplate for what its built for, skidding. I think you will go over anything with your setup, like a tractor :biggrin:

I was pretty sure that i will get that suggestion of FAST. Thanks

Thanks for all the good info man. So is it one of your best one stop shop that you recommend??

I welded my T6 stinger, at the junction with the pipe, couples of day ago. You are better of TIG weld it from the outside because you will have less welding on the inside. You will have some kind of deformation from the penetration of the welding but i dont think is going to be enough the really affect the flow. Find your self a good welder, not everybody is a good TIG welder, a lot of them are wannabes.

Where is Dave Moore at?? USA?? Because its look like the do-it-all-pay-shipping-once shop and its good to know. Do you have any comments on is work, porting and everythings??

I run T6 and lot of trails and i like them, maybe not as much low end as the DMC or PT but you can always use more top end for sand pit and open trails. IMO i think T6 are really good all around pipes and good for trails too.

We welded it last night, me and Spike on the HQ. Turn out really good, we just brushed the chrome on a steel wire wheel and welded.

Thats pretty much it but its not like Slime. Stan's no tube is more liquid and it have little particules in it. Kinda like your garage handsoap with abrasive. So because it's more liquid it's like water in your tire and its just splash around until there is a leak than it seal it. I tried it yesterday in one of my tire that was leaking on the beading and the bead ring on the stock rim. It seams to work fine. Anybody has ever use it ?? what was your results ?? and i don't think it's corrosive like Slime, i've beel using it in my mountain bike tires and i i've never seen a trace of rust on my rims.

Do you know that stuff?? i use it in my mountain bike tires and i was woundering if anybody ever use it in is Banshee wheels??

:yelrotflmao: yeah right ! i don't want a battlefield repair, i want a permanent repair.

Thanks guys, but i am more a try to fix it first before you replace it guys so i wont buy a new one now. And for welding i have access to a welding shop with friends who can help me. We will weld it on friday night i will post you the result.

Its just an expansion tank, so if you run your hose down the frame it will only spill on the ground if its overflows.

Ok some more info for you guys, the welder is a guy i work with and he know how to weld trust me. So cost of the job = free. Removing chrome is like you said to have no contamination, the more cleaner the better the result, and also because chrome is toxic for you. And material is steel or stainless. At first i was looking for something else than welding but finally its the best way to go and it started a post on welding wich is good.

Also dont forget to buy the two boots that go between the airbox and carbs.

Check if your carbs are synchronize. If its really off it will run bad on idle, not just on idle, and can smoke more on one side. While cleaning your carbs check the needles clip position, ive seen carbs with different clip positions and it was really smoking more on one side.

Yah i just talked with a welder and he told me that he can do it, remove the chrome first. Good to know that i can call Toomey but tell me if i can, cause i bought the pipes used, so no receipt no nothing. What they will do, replace my stinger??

Good mourning, i use Toomey T6 pipes and stinger and i recently discovered a crack on one of my stinger. The crack is right next to the weld on the connecting part that fit on the pipe end. About 3/4 of an inch long. I temporaly fixed it with some fabric from an old exhaust clamps that i squeez onto it with the rubber clamp. Sorry i cant send picture, iam at work. I managed to reduce the leaking to a minimum but i am looking for a permanent fix like welding but i dont think chromed part are weldable. I ordered new clamps but i need something to seal the whole thing. So if you know any good stuff to fix that problem let me know.

Robing hp !! i take my pipes off tomorow on i put the stock o-ring right in. Thank man and nice Shee by the way.

I run my T6 for many months without that o-ring, because i didnt know about it, and my pipes are not leaking. So is it a big deal to keep riding without it ?? or nothing wrong could happen??

I would call it addiction :laugh: Bought my Banshee brand new i havent made the first payment yet and first thing i knew was that i had spend 900$ on it :: D'uh!! But what a good deases anyways

Thanks guys, but does anyone ever try these one?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=190051936915

i couldnt have explained it better the dime is a really good trick.

You will probably have to adjust your clutch if you cant get it right with the clutch lever adjuster. Look in your Clymer and if you dont have access to one tell me i will explain it to you.

hi guys, did anybody know a good exhaust clamps to replace those rubber one?? I want it in aluminium because i melted the stock rubber and they caught fire