polkaudio

Bought a stabilizer from Golden West for the 89 shee and planned to install it while re-doing the top end. Well I don't see any obvious place to put it. And GW didn't supply any instructions. I would think this to be fairly simple. It almost looks as though since this has J-arms I need to add a bar so I can mount this up. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Uh, anyone?

I'm planning on installing longer front arms on my 89. I mainly dune ride. I found Metal Tech has a kit for $460. My questions are: 1. Is their product any good? 2. Should I get them with any forward offset or not?

Yes, that's a great article by Meat. I used it when I took my harness apart to remove un-needed wires and make it cleaner while adding the HID.

Golf Cart tires

What brand chain do you use and where did you buy it? I'll be replacing mine soon and would like to get recommendations. So use an O-ring chain or not? Also, is it true the sprockets should be replaced with the chain? Obviously if they are worn you should, but what if they are in good shape? The engine is essentially stock with a slightly milled head, mild porting, and no name pipes & silencers.

I bought a pair of those from a guy at the Sand Sport Super Show a few years ago. He claimed you gain power with them since by replacing the balance tube withthem each cylinder is running off of it's own carb. And the engine isn't sharing the air/fuel charge. Still haven't put them in to test his theory. Maybe next trip out after I get the HID set-up finished.

I had this problem when I added lights to my stock system. I was told to run the bike and disconnect the voltage regulator. If at idle the lights became brighter, then the stock regulator was bad. I replaced it with the Ricky Stator unit and they wer as they should be. Try that, you shouldn't need to run 2 regulators. Also check the air gap between the stator pick-up and the flywheel. I don't know what it is, but like Jet said, it's in the service manual. Don't forget there's a manual posted in this forum. It's pinned.

Thanks :beer:

Yes, you can, it just takes a little moving around in the frame. Make sure you have the gas tank off to make it easier. But I guessing you did this before pulling the engine out.

I'm fairly new to this site as it was recently referred to me by a freind when I was having trouble with my Banhsee. I've seen a lot of talk about Cubs. So my questionis this: What exactly is a Cub? Thanks

I had a similar sounding problem. I thought it was the clutch side cover. Replaced the gasket twice then noticed oil on the shift rod going into the case. Replaced the seal and the leak stopped.

I'm no expert, but that sounds like the jetting is way off. I don't see how switching to a twist throttle will fix that. I'd pull the carbs off and make sure the jets are the same size from one carb ro the next. So make sure both pilot jets are the same size, etc. Also with them opened up, make sure there isn't any dirt or sand in them. And get it running then spray carb cleaner at the intakes where the carbs mount as well as at the intake mount point at the heads to see if you have a vacuum leak. I'm sure the jetting guru's here will chime in when they have a chance. By the way, is your engine stock or not? If not, you need to list everything that's been done. This will determine what your starting jet sizes should be as well as where the needle should be at. Another thing to check is the carbs are synch'd up. Meaning they draw the same at idle and when you open the throttle.

Download the Service Manual from the very beginning of this forum and look it up. It's in there.

Hey 2stroke, Sorry about that. I read your post again and realized the same thing. My bad, you get it fixed?

Okay, how do we fix it? Would this be in a service manual?

make sure you have spark make sure the gas isn't bad, and has oil in it make sure the petcock is ON make sure there's gas in the tank check to see if the choke tube between the carbs is cracked or not, if so replace it If this is all good, try this it works for me every time. 1) With ignition OFF, pull ON the choke (and of course the gas is on), kick the engine over about three times. 2) Now turn the ignition on and kick it over. If it doesn't start and you checked everything out, there's more going on than is obvious. check the compression Is this a twist throttle or stock thumb set-up?

Uh, please sell this machine. You don't deserve to own one, especially if it'll do 100MPH. :shoothead:

Yes, there's fluid in the system. They've tried to gravity bleed the system, apparently Yamaha's can't be done. They've also tried bleeding the system the same as you would a car. This problem still persists. The next thing we're going to try is vacuum bleeding. And I doubt the lines collapsed since they're new. But even so, this was happening last season before any rebuild work was done on it. I can't see how or why this is happening. It just doesn't make sense.

price?

A buddy bought a banshee last year that's been serviced thoroughly by the original owner. His first trip out last season we had trouble unloading it because the front brakes had locked up. After cracking open the bleeders on both calipers they were fine. Well it seems when it's sitting for a while (only a couple of hours) they will lock up again. The master cylinder and calipers were rebuilt and new brake lines installed and this problem still persists. This last trip out he just ran with the bleeders open, so no front brakes. Any ideas of how to cure this will be grestly appreciated. :biggrin:

If you still need this done and can track down Dean Sundahl, he can do this for you. IMHO Dean is "The Man" when it comes to Banshee's. I'm thinking of doing the same to my '89.

Buy the RS unit. It's completely sealed whereas the stock is not. Plus I like that it has an actual ground wire. The stock unit uses the metal housing bolted to the chassis to supply the ground. Remember this will not work if you plan to convert to HID lights.

What battery are you using and where did you mount it? What did you do to mount it? I'm going to do the same conversion and I'm curious. Also, for some reason I cannot see your pictures. Are they pulled off the site? Is there somewhere else I can go to see them? Are there any tips you think would help to make this an easier project? Also, are you running the stock flywheel or not? And for whoever asked about running a capacitor; Trail Tech stated that Banshees and Blasters should not run one in a technical sheet somewhere on their site. I was thinking of using one until I read that.

I have an older ricky Stator kit using Super Off-roader lights. Much better than stock, but I'm converting to a DC system to run an HID.